Destiny wrote:Hi..
Well personnel I would do this..
Shoot exposures, ev 2+/-
Use Phothmatix to fuse stacks
Add to APG, detect and stitch..
Add the pano to LR if needed... BUT be careful not to edit ends...
..or Add fused stakes to LR... then edit before stitching which should eliminate the resk of tbe ends of the panno being effected by editing.
Destiny
LBernos wrote:Hello!
I just want to know what is the proper or best way to work on panoramas with 3 different exposures and how to blend them correctly?
Here is what I do and if you may, please tell me if what I am doing is wrong:
1. Shoot panorama with 3 exposures
2. Import photos to lightroom
3. Edit photos (a little)
4. Export as High res jpegs
5. Import as stacks in APG
6. Detect
7. Edit in APG
8. Click HDR in APG color modes
9. Render
one of my problems is I don't know how to edit on specific areas only like make the ceiling brighter or make the dark areas pop out..
Is there a better way to make an HDR pano?
Thanks!
LINO
Destiny wrote:.Hi... No, I edit my settinys in RAW, removing chromatic aberration and setting colour space to RGBs, correct WB etc... Export as TIF, then I add those images into Photmatix.. Export/Save as TIF.. Add those images into APG..I should point out I have never had the need to use LR...Destiny..
ungeherr wrote:I wanted to see if I too can improve my workflow and found this thread.
I see most of you use photomatix. I've tried to use both photomatix and easyhdr to fuse the stacks on multiple occasions but I've never seen any major improvement over fusing the images directly in APG.
Most of my experience with these programs have been negative with weird colors and lots of noise. I'm probably doing something wrong but I don't know what. Everything just works and looks so easy in the photomatix tutorials. All my exposures look good and I use ISO 100 so there shouldn't be that much noise. When only processing the same exposures though APG, everything looks great.
Even when I have succeeded with producing something though photomatix, there isn't a big enough of a difference to justify the extra work.
So my current workflow looks like this
1. I shoot the panorama with 3 exposures
2. Import as stacks in APG
3. Edit control points in APG
4. Export as 8-bit tiff with exposure fusion (Workflow case B). I've never experienced any major improvement with 16-bit tiff that justifies the double size. Maybe if I ever were to take pictures during night time but for 95% of the time I use 8-bit.
5. Render
6. Import to DXO Photolab
7. Apply some of my own presets and fine tune. DXO offers awesome sharpening, HDR effect and local adjustments of windows with a simple "control point" adjustment that doesn't require any brush strokes.
8. Export to lightroom
9. Fix chromatic aberration and make a final white balance, which LR does much better than DXO since DXO white balance settings are limited with TIFF-files.
10. Export to JPG
My results with this workflow is just as good as most tours that I've seen. Only photographers like http://www.thierryrussodelattre.com/ makes my work look mediocre.
ungeherr wrote:However, I find it interesting that you recommend the "Natural" preset. The result is very close to what I achieve with the HDR fusion in APG and both of them have one BIG flaw. They both add virtual achromatic aberration. Sometimes so severe that you need really aggressive setting to remove it and even then, you're not guaranteed to get rid of all of it. Aggressive defringe settings will affect other areas of the image as well so I would actually recommend to not use "Natural" when doing batch processing.
ungeherr wrote:The reason why you have a hard time seeing the difference is because I've done my best to remove the chromatic aberration in the affected imagers (without using the brush tool). Which is pretty stupid if I want to prove a point
But you know what, I just made another discovery.
I was about to show you that there's no chromatic aberration in my RAW files by cropping each RAW image in Photoshop. That's when I discovered that they all have it. How could I not have seen this? Well, that's the discovery.
The Microsoft Photos app which is my standard viewer, is REALLY good at removing all chromatic aberration. So I was under the impression that my RAW files didn't need any removal.
For some reason "Balanced" & "Soft" suppress the chromatic aberration.
Which software do you do you use to batch remove the chromatic aberration in your images? Light room?
ungeherr wrote:Here's a comparison using another image (I deleted the first one) where you can see the difference between "Natural" and a preset using "Contrast Optimizer"
This time, I didn't apply any chromatic aberration removal in Lightroom. Only slight removal in DXO which doesn't make any major difference.
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