What are the correct settings for apg using a fisheye lens?  

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marianne
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by marianne » Sun Jul 10, 2011 6:37 am

Your house is tidy compared to mine !!... hehe 2 kids= double trouble

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Destiny
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by Destiny » Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:25 am

Now you tell me... :rolleyes:... oh hum.... silly thing I am....

D....

marianne wrote:Hi D baby,

Always use manual focus.
Go here http://www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html and print out a focal chart for your camera and lens. Then you can get the maximum sharpness for your images by setting the right focal distance depending on the aperture. I use this table all the time because i am inexperienced.

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by marianne » Sun Jul 10, 2011 11:42 am

Golden Rules:
1. Manual Focus
2. No Auto White Balance
3. Same shutter and aperture for all photos- hence HDR
4. Same ISO

if there are any others I would like to know :)

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by Destiny » Mon Jul 11, 2011 7:28 am

ya.. Iam doing all accept for the auto focus... Never occurred to me....

Thought it was ok.... never had a problem but perhaps all my problems are this.... Couldn't try today.. teaching all week now... Never enough time....

D...

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by hankkarl » Mon Jul 11, 2011 7:04 pm

Destiny wrote:Hi Hankkar...

I had my camera set to f8 with +_2 on my bracketed shots... I set my first image to 1/5, the light is not great... So looking at the tif files I have a 1/6 - 1/15 - 1/4...

I just set my bracketed images to wide open... due to the brightness outside and the darkness inside....

The fused images from Photomatix on this occasion set to auto are not that great... I was beinging to rush to get a result.... trying to get baby fed...

You know.. to be honest.. it seems that there is a lot of mucking around to facilitate the needs of apg and its many shot comings... I had to change my shooting pattern where as PTGui accepted and processed a good result from my old shooting pattern, but I am not sorry that Andrew corrected my shooting pattern, I think it was a very good call..., since its now stitching a lot better from normal images in apg but the quality of stitch has also improved with PTGui too. Gone from being very good go friggen outstanding...!! WIthout all the bother... Even with my crapy looking fused images I fed into it as optimised jpgs... PTGui still produced a very nice job of stitching..

D...

f/8 should gives you an ok hyperfocal distance (2.3 ft, range 1.15 ft to infinity), but don't be afraid to stop down to where your camera/lens gets diffraction limited (usually around f/11 or f/13 on APSC and f/16 on FF). Don't be afraid to shoot long exposures. I've shot some that were over one minute (really dark interior) and they came out perfect!

BTW, at 1/5 I'd use Mirror Lock Up. In fact, I use it on all pano shots (except when I forget to turn it on).

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by marianne » Tue Jul 12, 2011 3:27 am

hankkarl wrote:BTW, at 1/5 I'd use Mirror Lock Up. In fact, I use it on all pano shots (except when I forget to turn it on).

What does the mirror Lock up do?

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by Destiny » Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:59 am

hi hankkarl.... looks like some good info is starting to come out... I found this about the Mirror control but I also found out that I can lower the mirror for cleaning... ... I just set mine to YES for the delay... Its sounds sick but I will check out out and see what difference it makes...

http://nikond90blog.blogspot.com/2009/12/nikon-d90-mirror-lock-up.html

While fining out about this, I also found a thing on my camera to lock mirror up for cleaning which might be good if I can blow out my dust blob.... I also found the clean image sensor which I have just done.. I will have to see if this has cleaned the blob off too... I am using a wireless control which is just great which must also help to reduce any movement.. but the camera itself can make movement during the shots... but a really sturdy tripod would eliminate this... I think mine is ok....

Thank you for that info...

D....

hankkarl wrote:
Destiny wrote:Hi Hankkar...

I had my camera set to f8 with +_2 on my bracketed shots... I set my first image to 1/5, the light is not great... So looking at the tif files I have a 1/6 - 1/15 - 1/4...

I just set my bracketed images to wide open... due to the brightness outside and the darkness inside....

The fused images from Photomatix on this occasion set to auto are not that great... I was beinging to rush to get a result.... trying to get baby fed...

You know.. to be honest.. it seems that there is a lot of mucking around to facilitate the needs of apg and its many shot comings... I had to change my shooting pattern where as PTGui accepted and processed a good result from my old shooting pattern, but I am not sorry that Andrew corrected my shooting pattern, I think it was a very good call..., since its now stitching a lot better from normal images in apg but the quality of stitch has also improved with PTGui too. Gone from being very good go friggen outstanding...!! WIthout all the bother... Even with my crapy looking fused images I fed into it as optimised jpgs... PTGui still produced a very nice job of stitching..

D...

f/8 should gives you an ok hyperfocal distance (2.3 ft, range 1.15 ft to infinity), but don't be afraid to stop down to where your camera/lens gets diffraction limited (usually around f/11 or f/13 on APSC and f/16 on FF). Don't be afraid to shoot long exposures. I've shot some that were over one minute (really dark interior) and they came out perfect!

BTW, at 1/5 I'd use Mirror Lock Up. In fact, I use it on all pano shots (except when I forget to turn it on).
Last edited by Destiny on Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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by Destiny » Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:42 am

Hey.. I just did the image sensor cleaning twice and I think my blob is gone.... I have take a pano with light walls to see if it has.. but now have to wait.. baby need to get ready for bed and I have school work to do... oh hum.. never enough time.... I showed my students some pano photo's today.. they were wowed by them... hehe.. I might need to buy apg/ptp for the school... they have some money to spend... but my Olympus camera has not arrived yet.... soon I hope....

D.....

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by klausesser » Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:47 am

marianne wrote:
hankkarl wrote:BTW, at 1/5 I'd use Mirror Lock Up. In fact, I use it on all pano shots (except when I forget to turn it on).

What does the mirror Lock up do?

The mirror lockup locks up the mirror . . ;):cool: Before an exposure can happen first the mirror must go out of the way. So it swings up and rests at the focus-screen, then the shutter opens, closes again and the exposure is made. Then the mirror swings back into it´s place. This procedere shakes the whole camera because of the physical mass of the mirror. This vibrations may blur the image if you use exposure times longer than 1/60 sec. So it´s preferable to swing up and hold (lock) the mirror half a second BEFORE the shutter is released. Then there´s no vibration coming from the mirror-movement.
This is also preferable when you use tele lenses: here it´s like you look through a telescope while you hold it in your hands - it´s nearly impossible to hold it without movrng it. The mirror-shaking can do the same to your tele: it´s vibrations influence the sharpness of your tele-shot. So if you use a tele: 1) use short exposuretimes (shorter than 1/125sec) and 2) lock up the mirror when you use it on a tripod (when you shoot handheld it´s a bit uncomfortable to lock the mirror first . . ;) )

best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser on Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
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by Destiny » Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:42 am

oh hum.... so.. I cleaned the sensor using the auto control, I raised the mirror and gave it a puff out with my puffer... but now I have 3 blobs or more!! ..How wonderful... emmmmmm

Lookes like it has to go through the dishwasher.... ;)

D


Last edited by Destiny on Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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by marianne » Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:06 am

Blobs are normal . With the utmost cleanliness i always get about 7 in a pano. Build you panoramic then edit them out with the 'spot healing tool' in photoshop

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by klausesser » Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:55 am

Destiny wrote:oh hum.... so.. I cleaned the sensor using the auto control, I raised the mirror and gave it a puff out with my puffer... but now I have 3 blobs or more!! ..How wonderful... emmmmmm

Lookes like it has to go through the dishwasher.... ;)

D

I use to let cameras clean by a specialist. Dust often really sticks to the filterglass of the sensor and don´t get away by just blowing on it. Isn´t too expensive and he knows what he does - and he has the correct tools!
Another way might be, but only if there´s no otherway, to compensate the dust in an aplication like CaptureOnePro for example: you make a featureless shot taking a grey or white surface with the aperture set to your usual values. Then in the application you have a feature that recognizes the spots as dust and generate a compensating mask. Because the blobs are in a constant position they can be masked out. It´s very useful most of the times - but might influence details on the other hand.

Anyway better to have clean glass on the sensor.

best, Klaus

P.S.: as Marianne said already - no problem to retouch them in PS unless they´re too many.
Last edited by klausesser on Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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