John2014 wrote:UPDATE: you could not have been more right about the wallpaper.
It just took me an hour to go through and delete dozens and dozens of groups of control points from shots that were mismatched with other shots.
Will saving the project save the deletes I have made at this point? I have also added some control points too.
Also, how do I refresh the original messed up pano?
thanks
John2014 wrote:Wow! Magic!
Now all the shots are where they should be. Any suggestions on how to proceed from here to finish it up? (photo below)
I did notice after my hour of deleting, that 2 adjacent shots no longer had any control points. I added 3 just so they had more than zero - but how many control points is ideal? Is it a case of the more the better? Is there a minimum number?
Re: A fisheye lens. I did buy a week ago a Rokinon 8mm, but I had poor results from it. The tops and bottoms were a jumbled up when the pano was rendered.....But I'll go back now and take a look at the control points in those to see if that was my problem.
John2014 wrote:It would be great if you wanted to play with the files! What is the best way to upload them? Zipping and uploading files is not something have done. Is it basically the same as uploading a photo? I used dropshots for the photos. Is there a good site for uploading zip files?
I think this is what you wanted to see, let me know if it was something else:
Regarding the fisheye shot:
I redid one of the fisheye shots I did last week. Originally I had clicked "fisheye" when creating the pano, but I had not set the lens. You were right on again. Once I replaced the "50mm" default with 8mm for my sensor size it corrected all the jumble at the bottom and the top. There are a couple of small defects and I'll play around tomorrow morning to see if I can fix those - I also just remembered you said something about crop circles, I forgot to look at that. I'll do that in the morning too.
I thought that maybe that lens just would not work for panos... thanks for straightening me out and showing me it will! It would be great to use that lens, since I can shoot only 6 shots instead of the 36 had I had been shooting with the 14mm (although it seems I should have been shooting only 24 - but still! much easier with 6) I have also realized that I think I can shoot an extra "zenith" shot for the top. I'll have to try that too.
What brand and model of pano head do you have?
John2014 wrote:What brand and model of pano head do you have?
I'm using the Panosaurus. It was only 100 dollars but it seems to work. I've done a number of 360s that have come out flawless - just by doing everything auto. Actually all the ones I've done until the bathroom shot I used auto - shows how good the Autopano works!
I have uploaded the photos (36) to dropbox. I'm really curious to see what you can do with this mess! Good luck!
(let me know if the downloads don't work - it's my first attempt)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7gtg5wjbgy33y54/Archive.zip
John2014 wrote:UPDATE:
For anyone who had been following along with this thread and was curious about the lenses I was using:
I am now using the Rokinon 8mm fisheye most of the time. It is a lot sharper than I thought it was going to be. Although it's not as sharp as the Rokinon 14mm - which I find to be a surprisingly sharp lens. If I want a VR that is as sharp as possible, and I have the time, I still use the 14mm. But the 8mm is still pretty good - and since it's so fast to shoot with I can get more panos. Actually in a tight space it can be extremely sharp..
John2014 wrote:UPDATE:
For anyone who had been following along with this thread and was curious about the lenses I was using:
I am now using the Rokinon 8mm fisheye most of the time. It is a lot sharper than I thought it was going to be. Although it's not as sharp as the Rokinon 14mm - which I find to be a surprisingly sharp lens. If I want a VR that is as sharp as possible, and I have the time, I still use the 14mm. But the 8mm is still pretty good - and since it's so fast to shoot with I can get more panos. Actually in a tight space it can be extremely sharp. But the main thing is it is so much faster to shoot with. I can do a full 360 with only 6 shots which covers almost everything but the zenith - where I shoot 4 shots. I think I might be able to get away with 3, or maybe even 2, but 4 is working fine for now.
I'm also shooting HDR and sometimes in low light with long exposures. With the 14mm I had been shooting 3 rows of 12 exposures. Which at times would take up to an hour to shoot. Thanks to mediavets suggestion I'm now shooting every 45 degrees with the 14mm - so only 8 shots per row - for the bottom 2. Then only 6 shots for the top - zenith row. Dropping down from 36 shots to 22 makes a big difference. And like I said, the 8mm only requires 10 shots (probably 9 would work too) which is much much faster.
Basically, if you are new to this like I am and learning, more shots it defiantly not better.
klausesser wrote:Avoid shooting so much pictures. Don´t use more than 20 - 25% overlap.
mediavets wrote:klausesser wrote:Avoid shooting so much pictures. Don´t use more than 20 - 25% overlap.
The conventional pattern when shooting with a fullframe fiisheye is 6-around in the main row, not 5.
AFAIK the Nodal Ninja R-D16 rotator does not offer 5-around (yaw separations of 72 degrees) anyway.
I guess it is your Panoneed robotic head that calculates 5-around for the main row?
klausesser wrote:I shoot 5 @-12° plus Zenith @ +90° as said. I do it using my manual modified Manfrotto SPH as well as when i use my Panoneed head.
That´s with the 5D2/15mm fe as well as with the D800/16mm fe.
Overlap is 20%.
best, Klaus
mediavets wrote:klausesser wrote:I shoot 5 @-12° plus Zenith @ +90° as said. I do it using my manual modified Manfrotto SPH as well as when i use my Panoneed head.
That´s with the 5D2/15mm fe as well as with the D800/16mm fe.
Overlap is 20%.
best, Klaus
Thats' fine I'm just reporting that 5-around with a NN R-D16 is not an option.
klausesser wrote:mediavets wrote:klausesser wrote:I shoot 5 @-12° plus Zenith @ +90° as said. I do it using my manual modified Manfrotto SPH as well as when i use my Panoneed head.
That´s with the 5D2/15mm fe as well as with the D800/16mm fe.
Overlap is 20%.
best, Klaus
Thats' fine I'm just reporting that 5-around with a NN R-D16 is not an option.
Isn´t the clickstop-ring interchangable?
best, Klaus
John2014 wrote:For focus on the fisheye I zoom in on the LCD screen and then focus. But I also use charts to determine the depth of field that I need. But before I actual start shooting I do some test shots then put them on my main computer to check focus on near and far objects.
John2014 wrote:Do you find that the for 360 panos that either the Canon or the Nikon fisheye is a better system?
And very nice pano examples! They do look sharp! What is the name of the head you use to get those nadir shots without a tripod?
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