felix wrote:Hello everyone,
I've tried various pano stitching software the last days, and i like autopano so far
I have tried making in-door panos with both a fisheye walimex 8mm and canon 18-55mm with my canon EOS 600D. both work pretty good on my first impression. however, when i render the full scale pano and check it carefully, i see errors like this all over the image:
http://imgur.com/VDRqPPC
the pano editor tells me that the control points are not perfect, but setting controlpoints manually is a huge amount of work to do, especially when doing panos with the 18mm photos, where i have 60 pics in total. is there any fine-tuning i need to do in the settings?
some suggestions would be much appreciated
thanks!
felix
felix wrote:Hello everyone,
I've tried various pano stitching software the last days, and i like autopano so far
I have tried making in-door panos with both a fisheye walimex 8mm and canon 18-55mm with my canon EOS 600D. both work pretty good on my first impression. however, when i render the full scale pano and check it carefully, i see errors like this all over the image:
http://imgur.com/VDRqPPC
the pano editor tells me that the control points are not perfect, but setting controlpoints manually is a huge amount of work to do, especially when doing panos with the 18mm photos, where i have 60 pics in total. is there any fine-tuning i need to do in the settings?
some suggestions would be much appreciated
thanks!
felix
felix wrote:hi and thats for the fast reply!
i know the basics regarding the nodal point, since ive watched some pano basics tutorials already. i didnt expect that taking pano pics from a no-nodal point would result in these stiching errors. all i have is a basic camera tripod, thats it. the problem is that my budget is very limited at the moment, since i just bought my new EOS 400D a few weeks ago. im surprised that all these nodal point adaptors are so expensive (didnt find anything below 200€, which is ridicilous for a piece of metal/plastic).
right now i dont know what i should do - buy my friend's fisheye lens (or make everything on 18mm, which seems to work aswell) - buy a nodal point adaptor - or simply a hire a company to make the panos for me (which would obviously be the last and most expensive option for me)
since the hotel room on my 18mm lens is quite a lot to upload (60 pics), here's the hotel lounge, made with the 8mm fisheye https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ijedodrsopd6skm/lNMNOb6fCn (no need to put a lot of work into that, these are just quick test shots)
so overall, i am considering buying a nodal point adaptor (if there's one for a reasonable price) and doing everything with my 18-55mm lens. would that be a good idea?
thanks a lot for the support!
a a gruntpuddock wrote:Don't see why you can't use one of these - just screw straight onto your tripod & let you move the camera back and forward.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-way-Macro-S ... 51a341a08a
The closer you are to your subject the more important to get the lens set up correctly.
mediavets wrote:a a gruntpuddock wrote:Don't see why you can't use one of these - just screw straight onto your tripod & let you move the camera back and forward.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-way-Macro-S ... 51a341a08a
The closer you are to your subject the more important to get the lens set up correctly.
That Walimex fisheye is the same as the Samyang and will require (typically) zenith+6-around+nadir.
felix wrote:mediavets wrote:a a gruntpuddock wrote:Don't see why you can't use one of these - just screw straight onto your tripod & let you move the camera back and forward.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-way-Macro-S ... 51a341a08a
The closer you are to your subject the more important to get the lens set up correctly.
That Walimex fisheye is the same as the Samyang and will require (typically) zenith+6-around+nadir.
Alright so these two posts confuse me
since i would prefer not to buy the fisheye, im focusing on the 18-55mm lens which i already own. i've also found another tutorial here which seems to be quite easy to make. according to the lens database i've found, my EOS 600D with 18mm lens would result in 86mm distance from the tripod screw to the entrance pupil.
is it worth to put some work into a selfmade panohead like this, or is such a simple rail like you suggested just enough for my needs? i guess i'd have to measure the nodal point distance over and over again when using the simple rail, while my panohead would always have the optimized alignment everytime i set up my tripod.
again, thanks for the great support!
felix
felix wrote:
since i would prefer not to buy the fisheye, im focusing on the 18-55mm lens which i already own. i've also found another tutorial here which seems to be quite easy to make. according to the lens database i've found, my EOS 600D with 18mm lens would result in 86mm distance from the tripod screw to the entrance pupil.
felix
felix wrote:
Alright so these two posts confuse me
since i would prefer not to buy the fisheye, im focusing on the 18-55mm lens which i already own. i've also found another tutorial here which seems to be quite easy to make. according to the lens database i've found, my EOS 600D with 18mm lens would result in 86mm distance from the tripod screw to the entrance pupil.
is it worth to put some work into a selfmade panohead like this, or is such a simple rail like you suggested just enough for my needs? i guess i'd have to measure the nodal point distance over and over again when using the simple rail, while my panohead would always have the optimized alignment everytime i set up my tripod.
klausesser wrote:felix wrote:
Alright so these two posts confuse me
since i would prefer not to buy the fisheye, im focusing on the 18-55mm lens which i already own. i've also found another tutorial here which seems to be quite easy to make. according to the lens database i've found, my EOS 600D with 18mm lens would result in 86mm distance from the tripod screw to the entrance pupil.
is it worth to put some work into a selfmade panohead like this, or is such a simple rail like you suggested just enough for my needs? i guess i'd have to measure the nodal point distance over and over again when using the simple rail, while my panohead would always have the optimized alignment everytime i set up my tripod.
Hi Felix!
We all started from the same point!![]()
It definitely is preferable when you can organize to use a fisheye for some days when you shoot!
You need much less shots and stitching is far more simple this way for a beginner. Using a fisheye means you would need only ONE row plus Zenith.
The Nadir you might let away and retouch it by placing a logo.
You don´t need a complicated multirow-head then. Just a ring which holds the lens and which you can fix on the tripod´s center-column. You can find those rings in shops
where plumbers buy their stuff. There are DIYs on the web - this is one of the best (in German - but you see it in the pictures):
http://www.langebilder.de/nodalpunktringe.php Using his Multirow adapter - also DIY - you can shoot a full sphere easily too. As he shows it in th epictures. Clever! And cheap!
here something in English - also from Tom: http://www.langebilder.de/pipe_clamp.php:
I suggest - i do it myself - to adjust the camera in a way it´s tilted down about 10 - 12° for the one-row. This way you can achieve a very small Nadir-hole which is
easy to get retouched.
For the Zenith-shot you need to tilt the camera up to 90° - if you want to show the ceiling.
IF ceiling and floor is of minor interest - then one row horizontal is enough to show a 360° pano in which you cannot look 90° up and down - but tit´s not always vital anyway
seeing a room´s ceiling and floor.
The advantage for you would be: it´s very simple to do and can be done for few bucks.
best, Klaus
felix wrote:if the old pano files turn out to be too small,
DrSlony wrote:If you use a fisheye lens, there is no need for adjustable heavy expensive heads.
DrSlony wrote:Java? Forget it. Don't use Flash either, unless only as a fallback.
klausesser: there is no such thing as a precise alignment with a lens that has no single nodal "point" - it's forgiving to within a few mm. I don't know if all fisheye lenses have a "floating" NPP, but mine certainly does. Despite this, what's stopping you from drilling two holes at precise distances? :]
felix wrote:what does a floating nodal point mean? in case my friend allows me to borrow his fisheye once more and i build my panohead especially for the fisheye's nodal point.
surprisingly i havent found anything yet regarding the nodal point distance for the "walimex pro I 8mm"
DrSlony wrote:Java? Forget it. Don't use Flash either, unless only as a fallback.
klausesser: there is no such thing as a precise alignment with a lens that has no single nodal "point" - it's forgiving to within a few mm. I don't know if all fisheye lenses have a "floating" NPP, but mine certainly does. Despite this, what's stopping you from drilling two holes at precise distances? :]
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