Autopano Giga 3 stitch problem - information missing!  

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Autopano Giga 3 stitch problem - information missing!

by marvinberry » Mon Aug 19, 2013 2:53 pm

Hi all,

I took my Panogear Motorized Head out to a hotel on Saturday to work on some 360 virtual tours. This was an unpaid job (thankfully) which I was doing with my partner to ensure we had our technique right - before we take on real work. We have had success up until now shooting inside our houses, viewpoints, in the street etc.

However, on Saturday, either the Panogear Motorized Head or Autopano Giga 3 failed on us in a big way. I realise I may be at fault, and I probably am (I am new to this). But neither my partner or I could figure out what the problem was. The panorama 360x180 when stitched together after pressing the 'Detection' button in APG3 always missed chunks of the image out of the picture (leaving grey and white chequered areas)! Either Panogear isn't shooting correctly and overlapping the shots by 25% as programmed, or Autopano Giga 3 is doing something wrong.

Here is the information I can provide:

Equipment I am using:
Panogear Motorized Head (purchased from kolor) using Panoshoot wireless wi-fi module. Operated by either iMac (Lion), Macbook (Lion), iPhone4S or Samsung Android device (tested them all and the problem is ALWAYS the same)
Canon 7D body
Canon 10-22mm wide-angle lens
Using Panogear batteries and AA batteries (tried both as we were concerned it was a power issue - but it wasn't - we were despaerate!)

Panoshoot is using Firmware '98' I believe (if this in the 'About' section on the Panoshoot website called 'SW Build'?)
I had previously programmed Panoshoot to photo 360x180 and called it 'Mosiac 360x180'.
The 'Camera Profiles' page appears to detect the correct camera settings. But maybe something is wrong in this section??

I have attached 2 panoramic stitches to demonstrate this problem I am having. In addition I have attached 7 screen grabs from Panoshoot which may indicate what I am doing wrong. Thanks to anyone who can help me solve this problem!

P.S. To overcome this issue on the shoot day I shot everything manually using the joystick on the Panoshoot module. That way I could ensure all areas of the room were photographed myself. When I stitch the manual shots I have NO problems! So is it a Panogear/Panoshoot setting problem????

Thanks in advance!!!

James



















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by mediavets » Mon Aug 19, 2013 3:38 pm

I am not a Panoshoot user but I'm familar with th Panogear/Merlin robotic mount controlled by Papywizard.

Are you using a custom shooting pattern? If so what is it?

Are you recording and XML data file that records shooting position co-oerdinates and using that with the Papywizard Import Wiazrd in APP/APG? If not you should nbe it will help APP/APG place 'featureless' images (such as plain white celing shots - that will otherwise get left out of the stitch.

If you want to share one of the problem image sets then put them online somewhere as a ZIP file and I'd be happy to download them and have a look to se what the problem might be.
Andrew Stephens
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Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by marvinberry » Mon Aug 19, 2013 3:57 pm

Hi Andrew,

I set my own 360x180 shooting pattern. It has worked many times but now it continues to fail on me. Again, I'm not sure if the problem lies with the Pangear shooting coordinates or APG3. You can see my 360x180 pattern on the 5th screen grab above.

Panoshoot appears to create an XML log everytime it finishes a panorama, but I have never imported this into APG! I just import the still images into APG from external hard drive. How do I import the XML file also Andrew?

I'm so new to this I don't actually know how to put anything online yet - I haven't got that far. I don't have a server in which to upload it I'm afraid (only screen grab above). But thank you very much indeed for offering to look at the file!

Kind regards,

James

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by lumelix » Mon Aug 19, 2013 4:23 pm

Hi
If you haven't set a wrong crop circle for fisheye images, then I guess it's because you set a wrong shooting pattern in your panogear.
The stitching is ok and we can see the image-corners.
Have you zooming in your lens ?
You can look for this gaps in your original images. If there this gaps also are missing, then it's definitely the shooting pattern.


Last edited by lumelix on Mon Aug 19, 2013 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Regards
Martin

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by marvinberry » Mon Aug 19, 2013 5:07 pm

Hi Martin, thanks for the response. I will take a look through the original shots and see if those areas are missing. But as for 'shooting pattern' how could I set it incorrectly out of interest? I choose 360x180 and Panoshoot detects the wide angle lens and chooses a 7 shot pattern on the horizontal in 3 rows. Is there some way I have accidentily told the Panoshoot to skip cetain areas? I have no idea unfortunately. As I say, I am new to this so not sure if I've somehow, somewherem inputted or omitted something crucial?

Many thanks Martin!

James

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by mediavets » Mon Aug 19, 2013 5:48 pm

marvinberry wrote:Hi Andrew,

I set my own 360x180 shooting pattern. It has worked many times but now it continues to fail on me. Again, I'm not sure if the problem lies with the Pangear shooting coordinates or APG3. You can see my 360x180 pattern on the 5th screen grab above.

3 rows of 7 image seems far too many.

You can read about recommend patterns for your lesn/camera combination here:

http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic-lens-database/canon/

Generally when shooting with longer focal length lenses - not a fisheye - then you would choose a pattern where you have fewee images per row approaching the zenith and nadir to avoid excessive overlapping which in itself can cause stitching problems.

The 10-20mm zoom wide angle is not an ideal lens for shooting spherical spanos. These 10-20mm WA lenses tend to exhibit complex distortions and you will be producing a far higher resolution stitched pano that you probably require and with so many images theer are a lot of seams and more chance of sticthing problems.


Panoshoot appears to create an XML log everytime it finishes a panorama, but I have never imported this into APG! I just import the still images into APG from external hard drive. How do I import the XML file also Andrew?

Read the Panoshoot docs somewhere you'll find how to get the XML file off the panoshoot and onto your computer. But avoid multisession XML files - is that what panosshot calls them? - becasue they won't work with APP/APG.

Then in APG use File/Import and choose the Papywizard Import wizard - it will prompt you for the location of the XML file and then also for the image files.

I'm so new to this I don't actually know how to put anything online yet - I haven't got that far. I don't have a server in which to upload it I'm afraid (only screen grab above). But thank you very much indeed for offering to look at the file!

Kind regards,

James

To share files you could use one of the file sharing services such as Dropbox or Ge.tt:

https://www.dropbox.com/

http://ge.tt/
Last edited by mediavets on Mon Aug 19, 2013 5:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by marvinberry » Tue Aug 20, 2013 3:59 am

Hi Andrew,

That's a shame about the lens - I researched heavily into which lens to get but have obviously been misinformed. I will look into the Panoshoot documents to see how I can import the XML information - thanks.

I have uploaded the 2 panormas to Dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cf41lhryy5e97r6/-jGE9meo3w

Can you see them via this link?

Thanks Andrew!

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by mediavets » Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:24 am

marvinberry wrote:Hi Andrew,

That's a shame about the lens - I researched heavily into which lens to get but have obviously been misinformed.

The 10-20mm is really useful - at the short end of the range - for wide angle single images of interiors - such shots are often also required if shooting interior tours of all kinds, but few would advocate such a lens for shooting spherical panos. Most woul suggest a fgisheye lens unless you wished tio shoot very high resolution spherical panos in which case a 35mm or 50mm prime (non-zoom) might be appropriate on a cropped sensor body.

I have uploaded the 2 panormas to Dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cf41lhryy5e97r6/-jGE9meo3w

Can you see them via this link?

Thanks Andrew!

This is what i found in the Dropbox - see screenshot.

What I was suggesting is that you upload one of the sets of images that comprise one of your panos you have problems with.


Last edited by mediavets on Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Artisan New » Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:45 am

When I look at this I laugh a little, since this problem is not due to the Panoshoot (that is working a okay) I see 3 x 7 shots (with some trouble)......whole room present. But what happens when you upload these shot into APP/APG it has to stitch these massive white ceiling using nothing but well, it's own imagenation....I bet you, you won't find any control points on those surfaces, since APP/APG is not clairevoiant (allthouigh being French). What it deperatly needs now is shooting angle information and that is what you are depriving it. The longer the lens the smaller the angle the more chance for the nasty white ceiling effect (as I call it). Now I bought a Fishey to counteract this (since I use a mannual head that is rather tight assed with .XML information :)). Now that was before I learned to use .XML by faking the #### (it helps if you use XMLspy or Microsoft Visual Web developer). What I will advise you is to be nice to APP/APG and don't just upload the images but IMPORT them the proper way:

- Get the .XML from the tablet to a proper computer.....copy-paste should work, but any which way get it there.
- In the top Papywizard inport window browse to the correct XML (theoretically they should all be the same of course).
- In the bottom Papywizard import window browse to the set of correcponding images.
- Let APP/APG do it'sa magic and I can assure things look a lot better already.
- Then be brave and open the editor window and check the control points for all the pictures
- If that fails start playing with the controls of APP/APG, take your time to get to know the program (I use it for years now and even I can learn new things once in a while), since that pays of. I know it can be boring looking at proces bars slowly migrating over your screen but believe me, you can't buy youre way into a perfect stitch, that takes experience and patience (call it the Zen of panorama shooting) but it is all good fun and less complex then mastering the art of 3D printing (using Repetier Host), and I speak from experience. Thats why Adrew (et moi) would LOVE to get our prying little digits on your original shots....

Greets, Ed.
Last edited by Artisan New on Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
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by marvinberry » Tue Aug 20, 2013 3:54 pm

Hi Ed, thanks for the advice. I will look into importing the xml file too. I have looked through my original shots and it appears that the Panogear/Panoshoot HAS left out the areas which are mising in the stitch!! What could possibly have caused that? Looking at my Panoshoot screen grabs above I can't think what might have caused this?! As Martin suggested above - is there an error in the shooting pattern? Perhaps it's not calibrated properly. I am very very lost!!!! : (

James

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by mediavets » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:07 pm

marvinberry wrote:Hi Ed, thanks for the advice. I will look into importing the xml file too. I have looked through my original shots and it appears that the Panogear/Panoshoot HAS left out the areas which are mising in the stitch!! What could possibly have caused that?

Looking at my Panoshoot screen grabs above I can't think what might have caused this?! As Martin suggested above - is there an error in the shooting pattern? Perhaps it's not calibrated properly. I am very very lost!!!! : (

James

So are you saying that there are not 31 (3 rows x 7) images in the image set?

Or are you saying that there are 21 images in the set but APP/APG left some out when stitching?

If there are three rows of 7 images then perhaps you configured Panoshoot incorrectly, or (an outside chance) there could be some fault with the Panogear mount so that it is not positioning itself correctly according to directions from the Panoshoot?

Can we see a set of original shots? - that might tell us a lot; as would being able to read the XML data file.

What focal length did you set the lens at? What focal length did you configure in Panoshoot?

You say you/Panashoot shot 3 rows of 7 images - what was the pitch value of each row?

...............

Incidentally, how did you get the idea that a 10-20mm wide angle zoom would be a top choice of lens for shooting spherical panos on cropped sensor canonm body?
Last edited by mediavets on Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by lumelix » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:20 pm

Hi James
Have you fixed the panogear well on the tripod ?
Otherwise there can be a unwanted rotation while shooting.

Or there is a disfunction in the software that controls the movement of the panogear.
Is the setting camera/lens correct ?

But this 10-22mm lens have a HFOV of 74º 10' in portrait orientation (on a APS-C sensor).
So 7 images should be definitely enough to cover the 360º-area.

Perhaps the shooting pattern haven't regularly moves between the images?
Regards
Martin

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by marvinberry » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:22 pm

Hi Andrew, I am uploadeding the original photos into the Dropbox folder for you now. Thanks for taking a look! Can you see the folder OK with this link? https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cf41lhryy5e97r6/-jGE9meo3w

I'm not sure how to find the XML file unfortunately. After each pano shoot the XML would automatically upload to my Macbook but I have no idea which file it is, as they are all named the same! And what Application do you use to open an XML file out of interest?

The lens was at 10mm and focused to infinity I believe. The Panoshoot acknowledged the 10mm and calculated it at 16mm due to the crop sensor.

OK now you've got me....the pitch value? This I have never attended to! Could this be the problem? Are you referring to the joystick section?

To be honest I can't remember who recommended the 10-22mm but I read the wider the lens the better enabling a larger depth of field.

James

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by marvinberry » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:30 pm

Hi Martin,

Yes the Panogear was fixed securely to the tripod. The settings on Panoshoot corresonded correctly with the lens I was using. I feel it is something to do with the shooting pattern - I'm just not sure what it is that I've set up incorrectly. I uploaded a few screen grabs to the beginning of this thread as I was hoping someone may spot a glaring error.

I think the Panogear Head/Panoshoot software is missing areas of the room (not shootig them), but the reason a remains a huge headache!!! I keep revisiting this but getting the same bad results no matter what the location may be.

James

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by mediavets » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:40 pm

marvinberry wrote:Hi Andrew, I am uploadeding the original photos into the Dropbox folder for you now. Thanks for taking a look! Can you see the folder OK with this link? https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cf41lhryy5e97r6/-jGE9meo3w

I can see 3 images at the moment perhaps they are still uploading?

I'm not sure how to find the XML file unfortunately. After each pano shoot the XML would automatically upload to my Macbook but I have no idea which file it is, as they are all named the same! And what Application do you use to open an XML file out of interest?

Does the Mac have a way of displaying the file name extensions (.xml) and other details - that way you can see which are the XML files and creation dates. Does the panoshoot not name the XML file is cuh a way that you can identify which image set it might belong to? Otherwise you need to rename them after each shoot so you do know which XML file belongs to which image set.

XML files are simple text files you can open them with any text editor.

The lens was at 10mm and focused to infinity I believe. The Panoshoot acknowledged the 10mm and calculated it at 16mm due to the crop sensor.

OK. But you should not focus to infiinity.

OK now you've got me....the pitch value? This I have never attended to! Could this be the problem? Are you referring to the joystick section?

No - assuming looking straight and level is zero (0) pitch then your 3 rows will have different pitch values.

Since Panoshhot calculates the shooting pattern - as I understand it - then the pitch value for each of the 3 rows will be determined by Panoshoot. All the shots in the same row will have the same pitch value, but each will have a different yaw value.

Those yaw/pitch values will be recorded in the XML file for each shooting position..

You can also view it in the Layers mode of the Panorama editor - see screenshot below.


Last edited by mediavets on Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by mediavets » Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:04 pm

I still only see three images in the Dropbox...will you upload the rest of the set?


Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by lumelix » Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:27 pm

Hi James

I have a look into one of the uploaded images. Looks ok, focal lenght is 10mm and you shoot manual exposure.
WB is on auto, but most of time no problem to solve for APG.

Show us a screenshot of the full pano in the control point editor, so we can see the green links and the shooting pattern.
Regards
Martin

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by Artisan New » Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:13 am

James this is hopeless....and worst of all not your fault. What happened:

You asked Panoshoot to shoot 360 x 180 degrees of field. And that is exactly what Panoshoot gave you....but what you needed to shoot a sphere is a controler that can shoot a sphere. For one thing a patteren 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-up-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-up-1-2-3-4-5-6-7 is nonsence when shooting a sphere especially with 51.4 (360/7) gaps between the photos.....this will not work. In order to shoot with this lens you need a pattern like this:

Recommended: N, 4 images every 90° at -60° pitch, 8 images every 45° at 0° pitch, 4 images every 90° at +60° pitch, no zenith image required

Now there is no way in heaven (or in hell) the Panoshoot is going to do that. It is simply geared towards shooting Gigapano's with long telephoto lenses. Nothing wrong with that but for your work a disaster. You could try to make it shoot 8 shots 360 + 51.4 = 411 x 180 FOV would be nice. But even that would be far from perfect for stitching. The only solution to your problem is this:

http://www.typeandcolour.de/index.php?ln=en&tp=hhc_preise

This is programmed and build by a freind of Klaus Esser and it can shoot dedicated spheres and kick out Papywizard compliant .XML......

Greets, Ed.

P.S. that Panoshoot can't shoot dedicated VR spheres I find unexcusable....and excusable since the Panogear/Merlin head is hardware not dedicated to VR shooting. Nadir way to large due to the large base. In order to have a dedicated VR mount you could go for a Panoneed (advertised on the same page but somewhat more expensive).


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by Destiny » Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:59 am

That RMS indicator is the most ambiguous thing ever, I absolutely and totally ignore it... Hate to see what a bad one looks like....

Destiny..

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by mediavets » Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:09 am

Artisan New wrote:James this is hopeless....and worst of all not your fault. What happened:

You asked Panoshoot to shoot 360 x 180 degrees of field. And that is exactly what Panoshoot gave you....but what you needed to shoot a sphere is a controler that can shoot a sphere. For one thing a patteren 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-up-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-up-1-2-3-4-5-6-7 is nonsence when shooting a sphere especially with 51.4 (360/7) gaps between the photos.....this will not work. In order to shoot with this lens you need a pattern like this:

Recommended: N, 4 images every 90° at -60° pitch, 8 images every 45° at 0° pitch, 4 images every 90° at +60° pitch, no zenith image required

Now there is no way in heaven (or in hell) the Panoshoot is going to do that. It is simply geared towards shooting Gigapano's with long telephoto lenses. Nothing wrong with that but for your work a disaster. You could try to make it shoot 8 shots 360 + 51.4 = 411 x 180 FOV would be nice. But even that would be far from perfect for stitching.

Ed...

Reading the Panoshoot manual:

http://www.panoshoot.com/user_manuals/Panoshoot_English_Manual.pdf

In section 5.5 I read that it is possible to define a custom shooting pattern which they term a Preset. Unfortunately a Panoshoot Preset is quite incompatible with Papywizard Custom Presets, which seems to be a really dumb decision by the Panoshoot developers, otherwise it would have been a simple matter of using a Papywizard Preset generator to create a suitable shooting pattern.

No, instead you either have to do it manually using the joystick - seriously, who's goiung to do that? - or you can import shooting position co-ordinates in CSV format apparently.

The latter looks like a possible solution in James' case; it wouldn't be rocket science to calculate the shooting co-ordinates for the 17 shot pattern Ed. described.

...............

James...

You seem to have been unfortunate in your choices of equipment in many ways:

1. The 10-20mm WA zoom lens is not ideal for shooting spherical panos, for a number of reasons outline in an earlier post. A fisheye lens would have made your life much easier, unless you really want/need very high res. speherical panos?

2. The Panogear/Merlin robotic mount is not ideal for shooting spehrical panos because it has a relatively large nadir 'footprint'. If you were shooting with a fisheye lens there'd be little advantage in using a robotic pano head anyway unless shooting from a pole, and you could have used a nice Nodal Ninja manual pano head instead. Robotic mounts with smaller nadir footprints - such as the Panoneed, Seitz VRDrive 2 - are MUCH more expensive and most likely outside your budget.

3. The Panoshoot seems to be the least user-friendly and the most 'awkward' of the possible controllers for the Panogear/Merlin mount, especially if you wish to shoot spherical panos.

Of the the main alternatives the T&C Touch controller can computer optimised shooting pattersn for spherical and non-spherical panos, and Papywizard can calcuate Mosaic (regular grid) shooting patterns and uses a Custom Preset methodoloy for non-mosaic (non grid) shooting patterns supported by some good custom preset genartors. Then there's PandroidWiz which runs on Android platforms that uses Papywizard-compliant Custom Prests for all tyeps of shooting.

But all is not lost - I suggest you try creating a custom preset pattern for the Panoshoot by importing the shooting position co-ordinates in CSV format as decsribed in the Panoshoot manual.

You also need to master the use of the XML data file that Panoshoot creates.
Last edited by mediavets on Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by mediavets » Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:00 pm

James...

I faked an XML data file assuming the pitches of the 3 rows were -40/0/+40 degrees and the yaw separations were 51.5 degrees approx.

Here's the result of using the papywizard Import wizard with APG 2.6.4.

It's now obvious why APG has problems with this scene - there's just so much 'featureless' white space wher ethe softwre is unable to find control points to make links between images; but the XML data file enabled APG to place the unlinked images.

I'd hazard a guess that perhaps your NPP may not be set accurately too? But I may be mistaken.


Last edited by mediavets on Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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klausesser
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by klausesser » Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:02 pm

Destiny wrote:That RMS indicator is the most ambiguous thing ever, I absolutely and totally ignore it...

I don´t think that´s clever.

I experienced to have a RMS around 1.5 or 1 doesn´t provide recognizable stitch errors even when viewed @100% - whereas
ALL other RMS-values shows stitch errors when you look at it @100%.

So to me it´s very simple: avoid RMS above 1.5 working on high-quality panos using other lenses as fisheyes or using fisheyes on hires-cameras.
On my 5D2 and D800 i realize the difference between 1.5 and higher RMS very well also when i use 15mm resp. 16mm fisheye.

Klaus
Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. Coco Chanel

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by klausesser » Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:14 pm

mediavets wrote:Of the the main alternatives the T&C Touch controller can computer optimised shooting pattersn for spherical and non-spherical panos, and Papywizard can calcuate Mosaic (regular grid) shooting patterns and uses a Custom Preset methodoloy for non-mosaic (non grid) shooting patterns supported by some good custom preset genartors. Then there's PandroidWiz which runs on Android platforms that uses Papywizard-compliant Custom Prests for all tyeps of shooting.

The T&C controller calculates a pattern of lesser shots in the upper- and lower rows
to avoid too much overlap.

Using a regular pattern isn´t wise at all for shooting a sphere.

The focal-length must not be an issue at all for shooting spheres - i shot spheres with 85mm and 105mm using the Merlin in earlier days and using the Panoneed head actually.

The point is to have high precision in calculating as well as in mechanical positioning - and in recording it in the XML.

With this tour i had pure white walls and pure grey floor 25% of the time. Without very precisely running combination of shooting and setting the positions by the XML in APG i´d have been completely lost: i used a 35mm lens
which gave me 700mpx:

www.360impressions.de/KlapheckFull

Feel free to zoom in :cool:

Klaus
Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. Coco Chanel

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by mediavets » Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:16 pm

James...

The Panoshoot generated shooting pattern seems to provide very little overlap at the zenith as you can see in this screenshot from the Layers mode of the panorama Editor in APG 2.64 (BTW you cannot display image borders like this using APG 3.0.7 more's the pity):


Last edited by mediavets on Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by mediavets » Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:27 pm

James...

I tried adding some control points but was unable to really improve things much.

I think that there may be unresolvable parallax errors with this image set because the NPP may not be set correctly, over and above the challenges posed by all that white wall and ceiling.

BTW is that you peering around the door frame?

The screenshot shows the Control Points Editor view of the links between images, and the second inmage is the rendered pano at 5K x 2.5K pixels.




Last edited by mediavets on Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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