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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:21 pm 
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Again, please, don't enter in anything too personal.

I would like to raise one debate in a simple manner. What are all the tricks to shoot the nadir ?
There's a lot of tricks depending on the setup, hardware, camera, and the quality you want to achieve. If you use photosynth, obviously the trick is just to look at the nadir without your feet inside the view and that's it. But that's not the real answer.

Personally, I like much the nadir adapter from nodal ninja. 2 pictures from the nadir ( one with tripod on one side, the second with tripod on the other side and done. No photoshoping needed to patch ).
With motorized head, no real solution as the L bracket is never motorized to return the head. Even if it was possible, the viewpoint would change. No real solutions yet.
Freehand is also possible. I tend to use this way of patching more and more because I'm lazy ;) It works but for casual photography, not for professional work.
Patching with real images in photoshop is always a solution, but takes time. I prefer to have the panorama done in Autopano. You should need photoshop only for color grading, sharpen, or such operation, but not for retouching.

So my question : what are your tricks to shoot so that the stitch is perfect for the nadir ?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:39 pm 
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I use PTGui Pro and their viewpoint correction feature with an off-axis shot where the tripod used to sit. Or if I'm lazy and didn't shoot an off-axis nadir, I clone it out in Photoshop. I use krpano's sphere to cube droplet, edit the square (and any other retouching I need like dust spots if I missed them before stitching), then the cube to sphere droplet to put it back. I usually have to reassign the correct color space after this as krpano's droplets don't include it. Here's the best PTGui Pro viewpoint correction tutorial I've found: http://www.johnhpanos.com/ptgvpt.htm I don't know how to do something like this in AutoPano.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:41 pm 
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If I really have a struggle and the nadir is impossible to shoot or fix, I get lazy and use a mirror ball nadir cap. LOL http://wiki.panotools.org/Adding_a_nadir_cap_(mirror_ball)


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 5:33 pm 
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Location: Duesseldorf, Germany
AlexandreJ wrote:
So my question : what are your tricks to shoot so that the stitch is perfect for the nadir ?

Definitely depends on the location first hand. As said: in 90% of all situations i edit the Nadir in Photoshop by cloning.
That´s the very fastest method and can easily be done for ALL resolutions - you can´t shoot a Nadir when you use a 105mm lens . . .

Josef and i thought about designing the vertical arm of the Panoneed with a base that can be turned around 180° for shooting straight downwards "outside" the rig and beneath the tripod - produces additional costs and i´m nor sure it pays off. IF somebody wants to have it it will come as optional.

But to be honest: A) it works only for short lenses and B) definitely takes more time than cloning the - very small - hole in PS and C) cloning can be done even with gigapixels from shots with long lenses.

But there are - extremely rare - occasions when a floor has such a complicated pattern that it´s very hard to close the Nadir-hole.
I had it here: www.360impressions.de/Lichtturm - a metal grid floor where you could look through partially . . . That was kind of a nightmare to clone . . :D

On the other hand THAT scene would also have been VERY complicated to shoot and patch an extra Nadir-image nevertheless . . .

So there IS NO one solution, not THE solution at all - depends on the location first hand.

best, Klaus

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Last edited by klausesser on Tue Apr 02, 2013 5:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:49 pm 
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Hello guys. This is my first post here as I just decided to buy the PanoGear. My purpose for now is to photograph monuments like obelisks with a high-resolution (later I plan to do interiors for real estate). My gear is like this: Canon 600d + Tokina 11-16 2.8 + Canon 17-55 2.8 and a B+W ND filter (I don't have the tripod yet but I think it will be Manfrotto 190xPROB + 804RC2 head). Will this combination work for me? Tripod+PanoGear+Camera&Lens? Anything else needed? Any advices?
Thank you for your time, Daniel.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:49 am 
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oroles wrote:
later I plan to do interiors for real estate

Welcome to the forum...

The Panogear mount is not considered ideal for interior panos because it has a relatively large nadir footprint compared to a manual pano head.

But real estate tour clients may be very happy with a branding logo at the nadir to cover the 'hole'; alternatively you can limit the vertical field of view to avoid the 'hole'.

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Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:49 am 
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About half a year ago I saw an announcement of a camerasystem that takes 6 views (like from the faces of a cube) in one shot. It also does bracketing. And it automatically stiches the 6 views to a 360/180 Pano.
It's not a videocamera like the ones on kolor.com, it's for highquality stills only.
Costs were over 10'000 Euro I guess but I can't find/remember the name of it.

Does anyone have an idea which model I mean ?

Kind regards
Alain


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:01 am 
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10,000, oh wow.. Many at that price are 360 video cameras

http://www.google.com.au/search?q=butte ... a&tbm=isch

but there is the iStar but the nadir is not great.. http://shop.nodalninja.com/products/istar_cameras
But its priced at the 10k..

Destiny...


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