Twilight wrote:So, I've never used FOV in any type of calculations. I would just find a scene through a viewing mask, figure which lens I wanted to use, and line up things visually. This usually works fine, but I invariably shoot too many frames, and as I'm now trying HDR panos, I'd like to get the correct number each time so I'm not filling up my hard drives unnecessarily. I only want to crop minimally if necessary. This visual approach works, but while I can do this without understanding the calculations, I'm the type of person that likes to know the underlying concept and math.
Twilight wrote:Any idea on doing the math?
Twilight wrote:So, for a 2.40:1 pano and a 24mm lens in portrait orientation (53.1 FOV), how many frames does it take with 30% overlap? Quick! Calculate it on a napkin!
Twilight wrote:I already know this from practical testing with the RRS head and all my lenses:
2:1
24mm lens, portrait, 4 frames, 20 deg. rot., start at 330 deg.
45mm lens, portrait, 5 frames, 12.5 deg. rot., start at 335 deg.
90mm lens, portrait, 4 frames, 10 deg. rot., start at at 345 deg.
2.40:1
24mm lens, portrait, 5 frames, 17.5 deg. rot., starts at 325 deg.
45mm lens, portrait, 4 frames, 20 deg. rot., start at 330 deg.
90mm lens, portrait, 5 frames, 10 deg. rot., start at 340 deg.
3:1
45mm lens, portrait, 6 frames, 15 deg. rot., start at 322.5 deg.
90mm lens, portrait, 6 frames, 10 deg. rot., start at 335 deg.
I want to know that mathematics behind it, so I could explain it to someone who doesn't know... for example.
Twilight wrote:Don't use T/S?? What are you talking about? Who would want their horizon in the center always? Rise and fall are incredibly useful in panoramics! And Scheimpflug is your friend if you understand him. Using tilt to increase DOF (so you don't have to close down the aperture) is very useful--especially when you have low light and have wind moving objects in your scene and want to keep the shutter speed up.
Jon
lumelix wrote:Hi Jon
These are two seperate problems, this is the missing link;)
First you should calculate the pix/deg of your shift lenses: sensor size/FOV=pix/deg.
This is fix for every fixed lens, even when shifting/tilt them.
This information helps you to select the best lens for a planned pano and the target resolution for the print.
Second is the shooting pattern. You should use 15-25% overlapping. With every lens, you have
a different rotation angle. When your RRS don't have detents, you should use the graduation marks.
Take an integer value that gives you something between 15-25% overlapping.
For your favorite formats: 2:1, 2.4:1, 3:1 there are different shooting patterns, in landscape and portrait mode.
Best way is to create a table with the possible variations, for every lens and orientation mode, from 2 images up to the max FOV that you will shoot.
In such a table you can also calculate the resulting resolution and the max. print size for your preferred print resolution.
So with such a table in your pocket, you can easily and fast select the best lens and pattern when you know the format and print size.
Is this what you are looking for?
Twilight wrote:Exactly... that is the only thing I shoot!
Twilight wrote:Klaus,
Third sentence of my first post:
>These days, I only print panoramas in three formats.
Fifth paragraph, first post:
>I'm back shooting panos and now I have the same tools: I have three viewing masks for my favorite formats: 2:1, 2.4:1, 3:1.
Jon
lumelix wrote:Twilight wrote:Sheeesh. My memory is slipping...
If it's only your memory and not yourself with the camera, then it's ok
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