oreo5000 wrote:I am using a Sigma 8mm f/3.5 DX on a 5DMKii.
oreo5000 wrote:Hi Guys,
I'm having difficulty getting Autopano Giga to correctly stitch interior shots from my spherical fisheye's, they stitch and I get a good global RMS but I always seem to have breaks in my vertical lines. Any advice would really be appreciated.
I am using a Sigma 8mm f/3.5 DX on a 5DMKii. I have the nodal point set to where the gold band around the lens is.
Im using a Agnos Mrotator TCP short with a RingT.
I am currently shooting three shots angled 5 degrees downwards and one up shot.
Thanks in advance!
oreo5000 wrote:Hi Klaus,
Thanks for the reply.
It does ineed work, you end up woth a complete circular image. This allows you to shoot only 3 frames around because there is enough overlap! However you do sacrifice resolution because it only covers a small area of the frame.
oreo5000 wrote:Thanks mediavets. I'll give that a go.
I also have a Nodal Ninja 3 available to me. Which in your experience is better to use. The NN3 or Mrotator + RingT?
My RingT actually prevents the focus ring from rotating, is this right or should'nt it be that far over?
Thanks again
oreo5000 wrote:Thanks Klaus
What setup are you using?
oreo5000 wrote:Focus will be locked off at infinity@F8 so I'm not concerned about using it,
I just meant is the RingT supposed to be that far over, I'm guessing it does in order to achieve the nodal point, I just figured it might be designed to slide on and stop exactly at the nodal point for that particular lens.
With regards to your first comment about pointing 7 degrees down, and shooting one up, with that be enough coverage to stitch the up shot?
Also should I be doing anything specific in Autopano Giga, im basically just dropping them in, hitting detect and then chaning the projection to spherical
thanks again!
oreo5000 wrote:I read that infinity @ F8 allows everything from 10cm to inifnity to be in focus with this lens, is that incorrect?
Ah ok, but then I'd need a down shot right?
I didnt choose them, it's someone elses equipment that I'm trying to make the best use of. I understand how much resolution is being wasted and how poor that lens is, but it's all I have access to at the moment.
Thanks for the help, I'll give all this a go and drop you some files if I'm still having problems I'll upload the images for you, really appreciate it!
oreo5000 wrote:Thanks mediavets,
basically I need maximum carpet, it doesnt matter about the tripod being visible as this will be retouched out, but wouldnt it make more sense to shoot downwards and take an upshot as i am currently doing?
Otherwise if I shoot looking upwards and then shoot a single down shot won't I end up with my pano head arm visible?
oreo5000 wrote:Thanks mediavets,
basically I need maximum carpet, it doesnt matter about the tripod being visible as this will be retouched out, but wouldnt it make more sense to shoot downwards and take an upshot as i am currently doing? Otherwise if I shoot looking upwards and then shoot a single down shot won't I end up with my pano head arm visible?
mediavets wrote:. . but it see no need to pitch down very much if at all because you risk getting spurious control points being set on the pano head and tripod which can muck up your stitching, and be careful to ensure that you have sufficient matching features to allow the stitcher to link the zenith/up shot to the main row - this can be a problem with 'featureless' ceilings in rooms with same coloured plain walls.
klausesser wrote:Right. But in terms of keepig the Nadir-hole as small as possible i use -12° with my 15mm fisheye on fullframe. That gives me 6+Z shots @20° with my manual head and matches perfectly.
mediavets wrote:klausesser wrote:Right. But in terms of keepig the Nadir-hole as small as possible i use -12° with my 15mm fisheye on fullframe. That gives me 6+Z shots @20° with my manual head and matches perfectly.
Yes, but he has a Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye on his 5DMkII - that will give a circulart fisheye image with I think approx. 170+ HFOV and VFOV.
klausesser wrote:mediavets wrote:klausesser wrote:Right. But in terms of keepig the Nadir-hole as small as possible i use -12° with my 15mm fisheye on fullframe. That gives me 6+Z shots @20° with my manual head and matches perfectly.
Yes, but he has a Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye on his 5DMkII - that will give a circulart fisheye image with I think approx. 170+ HFOV and VFOV.i know - i read it. But i meant it as a more basically suggestion. I told before the DX 8mm fisheye lens doesn´t match on fullframe.
best, Klaus
mediavets wrote:Agreed, but he didn't get to choose the kit he has to work with and he's just trying to get the best from what he's been given for now.
oreo5000 wrote:What would the ideal lens be for the 5Dmkii then?
I'm not looking for huge resolution, just accurate stitching.
Artisan S. wrote:BTW, the 15 your talking about is FF (image filling) fisheye (not like the Nikon 6 for instance wich produces a round image).
klausesser wrote:mediavets wrote:klausesser wrote:Right. But in terms of keepig the Nadir-hole as small as possible i use -12° with my 15mm fisheye on fullframe. That gives me 6+Z shots @20° with my manual head and matches perfectly.
Yes, but he has a Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye on his 5DMkII - that will give a circulart fisheye image with I think approx. 170+ HFOV and VFOV.i know - i read it. But i meant it as a more basically suggestion. I told before the DX 8mm fisheye lens doesn´t match on fullframe.
best, Klaus
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest