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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:39 am 
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Somewhat new to pano, and loving auto giga. Anyway, lots of calculators around that give you the number of shots you need given lens, crop factor and desired fov for panorama. The one thing I'm not clear about is the pitch. I'm using ninja nodal gear with camera in portrait orientation. Often with a 20mm lens. So to determine the pitch... Not sure. Horizontal settings always seem to work fine. Is that clear hopefully. Calculator I'm using is the popular hdrlabs calculator.
Thanks in advance. Dave


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:48 am 
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Location: Isleham, Cambridgeshire, UK.
Welcome to the forum...

Some guidance here for patterns to shoot 360x180 panos:

http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic-lens-database/

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


Last edited by mediavets on Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:28 am 
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Yes. I used that database for my canon 20mm f2.8 on cropped 1.6 with perfect results. Wish they had entry for canon 50mm f1.4. Its just degree of pitch I'm not sure about with camera in portrait mode. Same for a few other lenses.
Dave. And thanks for response.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:28 pm 
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beckermanphoto wrote:
Yes. I used that database for my canon 20mm f2.8 on cropped 1.6 with perfect results. Wish they had entry for canon 50mm f1.4. Its just degree of pitch I'm not sure about with camera in portrait mode. Same for a few other lenses.
Dave. And thanks for response.

It's going to take a lot of images to cover 360x180 pano FOV with a 50mm rectilinear lens on a 1.6xcrop sensor.

Are you sure you want to do that with a manual pano head?

You could, as guide, use this calculator that's designd for use with Papywizard (and a robotic pano head) that will calculate a shooting pattern with yaw/pitch values for each shooting position:

http://www.kolor.com/forum/t8100-papyspheric-a-python-program-to-build-templates-for-panospheres?id=8100

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:26 pm 
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beckermanphoto wrote:
Yes. I used that database for my canon 20mm f2.8 on cropped 1.6 with perfect results. Wish they had entry for canon 50mm f1.4. Its just degree of pitch I'm not sure about with camera in portrait mode. Same for a few other lenses.
Dave. And thanks for response.

Hi Dave!

I can have the Panoneed run a simulation and send you the xml with the values for pitch, yaw and roll if you like.
Drop me a note.

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 4:46 pm 
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For a 360x180 pano, you can use also the EasyPano calculator : http://www.easypano.com/Panorama-software-47_382.html

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:19 pm 
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Rule of thumb I use to come up with a first pattern for cameras that are not full frame (for ff cameras use the number 480 instead of 600) :

Start with the number 600. Divide 600 by the focal length of the lens used, result is nr. degrees horizontal rotation when shooting portrait mode. For example 600:8 mm = 75 degrees.
If the result is not a nice number that you have on your rotator, take the first number under the result that you have. So if you don't have 75 degrees, go for 60 degrees
Use this nr of degrees and check while lens is horizontal whether you indeed have a nice overlap.


For the rows : Start half of the result under the zenith, so if your result is 75 do 37,5 degrees under zenith, so 90-37,5 bring you 52,5 degrees up. Next row one can be [result] lower, so 52,5 - 75 = -7,5 degrees.
Continue to make rows unttil you don't want to go lower*.

The number of degrees you are vertically away from the horizon (+/-) is problably equal to the percentage of the shots you really need to make, but be carefull, in postprocessing you rather not use an image that you made too much then realise you need an image that you did not make.


*Vertical degrees theoretically can be 1.5 times bigger but because you want to connect sky with horizon very well, keep vertical degrees equall to the result.

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I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business and shooting you might want me do the stitching for you.


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