Parallax issues with panohead, Canon 50D and Canon EF-S 10-22mm  

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ZenCocoon
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Parallax issues with panohead, Canon 50D and Canon EF-S 10-22mm

by ZenCocoon » Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:34 am

Hi everyone,

New to the panorama world, I'm trying to get the nodal point properly setup to avoid parallax issues. So far, while shooting indoor, I quickly see problems rising. Outdoor, with greater distance to subjects, it's going great.

I use the vertical rails on the pano head, and a Canon 50D in portrait with a Canon EF-S 10-22mm. The rails setup looks pretty good but the body looks around 5 millimeters to big to have the lens properly centered on the rotation axis. What is the solution for this ? Shall I modify the head to get closer to the arm ?

If you have other tricks for indoor panos, that will be much appreciated.

Best regards,
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Sébastien Grosjean - ZenCocoon

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klausesser
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by klausesser » Wed Jul 13, 2011 11:13 am

ZenCocoon wrote:Hi everyone,

New to the panorama world, I'm trying to get the nodal point properly setup to avoid parallax issues. So far, while shooting indoor, I quickly see problems rising. Outdoor, with greater distance to subjects, it's going great.

I use the vertical rails on the pano head, and a Canon 50D in portrait with a Canon EF-S 10-22mm. The rails setup looks pretty good but the body looks around 5 millimeters to big to have the lens properly centered on the rotation axis. What is the solution for this ? Shall I modify the head to get closer to the arm ?

If you have other tricks for indoor panos, that will be much appreciated.

Best regards,
--
Sébastien Grosjean - ZenCocoon

I described it some days before: nag away 3 mm of the rail where it slips into the mount and let it as it is where the camera is fixed. I did it with my 5D2 and it works perfectly. The rail is thick enough.

best, Klaus
Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. Coco Chanel

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mediavets
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by mediavets » Wed Jul 13, 2011 11:26 am

ZenCocoon wrote:Hi everyone,

New to the panorama world, I'm trying to get the nodal point properly setup to avoid parallax issues. So far, while shooting indoor, I quickly see problems rising. Outdoor, with greater distance to subjects, it's going great.

I use the vertical rails on the pano head, and a Canon 50D in portrait with a Canon EF-S 10-22mm. The rails setup looks pretty good but the body looks around 5 millimeters to big to have the lens properly centered on the rotation axis. What is the solution for this ? Shall I modify the head to get closer to the arm ?

If you have other tricks for indoor panos, that will be much appreciated.

Best regards,
--
Sébastien Grosjean - ZenCocoon

If the dimension from the base of the camera body to the centrre of the lens mount is greater than 40mm, and/or the diameter of the lens barrel is greater than 40mm, then you will have to make some modification to the rail or the dovetail clamp (often referred to on the forum as the crown) if you wish to mount your camera/lens at the NPP in portrait orientation, which is necessary when shooting spherical panos indoors.

If you do not need to gain much then just using a slimmer rail may be suffiicient. You can make one from wood if you like:
http://www.kolor.com/forum/p37570-2009-01-24-23-56-43?pid=37570#p37570

Or as Klaus suggests 'attack' the standard rail with a file.

You can see some of the more radical modifications made by users here:
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/action/view/Merlin-Orion-Papywizard_users_feedback
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by ZenCocoon » Wed Jul 13, 2011 12:10 pm

Hi Klaus & Andrew,

Thank you very much for your answers, the wood approach looks great to me, I'll see how it goes ;-)


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