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What are the reasons to buy Panogear when already owning a NN5

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 4:22 pm
by HansKeesom
Hi,

I would like your help getting clear for me what advantages I can expect when I would buy a panogear, already owning a Nodal Ninja 5.

I currently do my panorama's using a 10 mm fisheye, which mean two rows of 6 photo's. When requested I add photo number 13 for the nadir hole. One panorama takes about two minutes.
Can a Panogear head bring me anything here?

I might wanna move to using a longer lens to creat higher quality panoramas. Doing that with a NN5 is a lot of work. Will this be where the panogear will shine? How about the nadir hole when using longer lenses?

I welcome your thoughs

Kind regards,

Hans

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 5:09 pm
by mediavets
HansKeesom wrote:Hi,

I would like your help getting clear for me what advantages I can expect when I would buy a panogear, already owning a Nodal Ninja 5.

I currently do my panorama's using a 10 mm fisheye, which mean two rows of 6 photo's. When requested I add photo number 13 for the nadir hole. One panorama takes about two minutes.
Can a Panogear head bring me anything here?

Only if you plan to shoot from the top of a mast/pole where you can't reach up to move the NN5.

It can be good for car interiors too I'm told.

I might wanna move to using a longer lens to creat higher quality panoramas. Doing that with a NN5 is a lot of work. Will this be where the panogear will shine?

Yes, particularly when used in combination with the Papywizard Import Wizard in APP/APG which will assist with the placement of 'featureless' images whgich would otherwise remain orphaned and not included in the stitch.

How about the nadir hole when using longer lenses?

It's larger than that of an NN5 but not enormous IMO. The size of the nadir hole is, of course, not dependent on the focal length of the lens used and you'd have a similar problem/challenge using the NN5 if shooting with long focal length lenses.

Long focal length lens are more typically used to shoot partial panos with a pano FOV of less than 360 x 180.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 5:33 pm
by gkaefer
if you do a pano with longer focal and perhaps you desire is to do HDR panos (I mean not outputformat a real .hdr image, I mean stacking & fusing and perhaps if desired slightly tonemapped...) than also with shorter focal a panogear can make sense.
look at my recently today posted Mozartplatz tour. its made with 8mm, each pano 13 images 2x6 +1 manually nadir image) but on each positin I took 7 brackets - so 7 x 13 x 2 images for the two panos and to get security I did 2 runs (because of massive crouded scenery) .... finally 182 images. doing this manually ... I shake for fear.... so I used my merlin head and my handcontroller and my promote control device and all images were taken after 1 hour inclusive setup on location) just imageing you wanna do a pano with 700 images....

Liebe Gruesse,
Georg

PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2011 6:09 pm
by HansKeesom
Hi Georg,

Bracketing is a way to improve quality. But I don't see the benefit of a panogear there as it is still a matter of 13 times pressing the release once ( and holding it for a while) isn't?

For larger focal length I begin to see the point.

Kind regards,
Hans

PS. I was a bit dissapointed seeing the CA in the Mozartplatz tour. Guess it is due to fisheye lens. One more reason to go away from fishey lenses

PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:49 pm
by klausesser
HansKeesom wrote:Bracketing is a way to improve quality. But I don't see the benefit of a panogear there as it is still a matter of 13 times pressing the release once ( and holding it for a while) isn't?

A programmable head, resp. it´s controller, controls the bracketing also several ways:
1) as you already described triggering the camera once and the camera fires the series
2) the controller fires the camera three times (camera has to be set to single shots instead of a burst)
3) the controller triggers the camera´s mirror-lock before each shot and fires like No.2).
That means the controller triggers the camera six times instead of three times.

No.1) is fast, but you need very short exposure times because the burst-sequence shakes the camera.
No.2) is a good average method.
No.3) of course ist the best method - you can set a "dead-time" on the controller to wait before shooting after locking the mirror.

Different cameras provide different sequences - between 3 and 9 steps.
Of course you can use the camera manually fired - but think about shooting some hundred shots it gets a bit difficult . . . :cool: You most likely forget some releases during the process of shooting so much shots.

Using a fisheye a manual head is fine. But i kike to lift the camera some 3m up on the tripod and fire it from that height to get a better overlook or have a better look to something. In this case remote controlling the camera - i use a small field-monitor clamped to the tripod base for liveview - is the only way.



best, Klaus

You can see my average pano-rig using the Merlin here - without the monitor but with an attached Promote Control and a picture of the monitor - it´s attached to the camera directly here during a portrait-session. Shooting panos it´s attaches to the tripod of course :cool: