Image-stitching and virtual tour solutions My account Updates
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 6:23 am 
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http://threesixtyhawaii.com/Marvick-Clever/49BSB


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 8:16 am 
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Location: Isleham, Cambridgeshire, UK.
Did you consider offering a floorplan?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 8:23 am 
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I'm still waiting for the floorplan from the architect. This is not completely finished yet.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:45 am 
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the tonemapping / HDR effect is for my taste to excessive.
if you compare the Images from Gallery with pano... I would prefer to see the panos with the "mood of" the Gallery Images...

Georg


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File comment: Gallery Images: much more natural look...
2014-06-07 10_40_50-49 Black Sand Beach, Hawaii - Internet Explorer.png
2014-06-07 10_40_50-49 Black Sand Beach, Hawaii - Internet Explorer.png [ 832.17 KiB | Viewed 593 times ]
File comment: Pano: excessive HDR/tonemapping....
2014-06-07 10_41_22-49 Black Sand Beach, Hawaii - Internet Explorer.png
2014-06-07 10_41_22-49 Black Sand Beach, Hawaii - Internet Explorer.png [ 1.13 MiB | Viewed 593 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:50 am 
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gkaefer wrote:
the tonemapping / HDR effect is for my taste to excessive.
Georg

I agree - but it probably appeals to the sort of people who'd be attracted to buy this place, which is obviously all about glorying in excess.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:55 am 
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Hi..

I agree, a bit to much stylising in the HDR... The stitching has issue too...

...but as Andrew says, this effect probably suites the theme...

Destiny...


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 4:23 pm 
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I don't know of any other way to get the full dynamic range. The client wanted to see both the interior and the exterior. I had to bracket 12 exposures to get the full range. Does anyone have any examples of a virtual tour with HDR or full dynamic range that they really like? I would love to see it so I can learn.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:31 pm 
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I would not use 12 exposures... Are these exposures at 1ev +/-

Destiny...


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:44 pm 
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HawaiiHans wrote:
I don't know of any other way to get the full dynamic range. The client wanted to see both the interior and the exterior. I had to bracket 12 exposures to get the full range. Does anyone have any examples of a virtual tour with HDR or full dynamic range that they really like? I would love to see it so I can learn.



Hi!

It´s good to shoot 12 steps bracketing @1EV steps for covering a very wide dynamic range - but i suggest not to use tonemapping but tone-compressing instead.
Compressing works more "neutral", less overemphasized.

Klaus

PS: avoid too much equalizing inside and outside - looks boring then. I also suggest to deal with the very heavy CAs.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 4:33 pm 
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I didn't use Tone Mapping. I used the "Real Estate" exposure fusion setting in Photomatix. I will drop the saturation of the image in Photoshop so it looks less tone mapped.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:26 pm 
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http://farbspiel-photo.com/learn/hands- ... ate-method


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:45 pm 
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HawaiiHans wrote:
I didn't use Tone Mapping. I used the "Real Estate" exposure fusion setting in Photomatix. I will drop the saturation of the image in Photoshop so it looks less tone mapped.



So you used a preset.

Don´t. :cool:

Always better to do the settings manually for having full control about what happens.

best, Klaus


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 8:22 pm 
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I did use a preset but it was my own. I used settings that I had from another home and saved them as a custom preset. This is where I messed up. I should always adjust the settings for each scene. I will reprocess tonight and hopefully end up with something that is much more pleasing to the eye regardless of people's opinions of obscene wealth. :)


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:19 am 
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I'd agree with the inside and outside bracketing issues. I think the outside SHOULD be a bit different from the inside. not completely blown out, but not the exact same either. I'd suggest either light the inside to bring up the ambient levels to something closer to the outside, or shoot when the light levels outside are closer to those of inside. and yes, I'd agree 12 stops bracketing is kinda crazy :) I don't mind the HDR look so much, but 12 stops just makes it hard on yourself :) not necesary. my bigger issues are the stitching errors. The images themselves are so vibrant and crisp, the stitching errors really hurt the quality level of the tour. I'd spend some time getting those cleaned up. :)


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 6:49 am 
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I did ask if you captured at 1EV +/-, so I will asssum you did... What I suggest you do, deleat every other shot.. So now you have 6X 2EV +/-.... I would then try the Natural setting in batch processing of Photomatix.. Its quite nice and it might meet your needs.. However, you can still edit this preset to accommodate your current images.. Then save that as a preset.. Batch process and try again.. A single process stack can look a lot different when stitched a pano.. So I would suggest you experiment.. Do not worry if your stitched pano is a little dark.. its better if it is. You an then use the Exposure setting in Photoshop to do some fine tuning and Sharpening...

You could spend some time editing your control points to improve on the stitching output since the obvious errors are on the architectural lines.. This is obviously an upper market home so it really needs to be better.. I would before your next photo shoot, work on your NNP..

Destiny...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:46 pm 
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Sorry Destiny. I meant to get back to you but life took over. Here's my workflow. I'm sure many of you will cringe in horror.

Using a Nodal Ninja panoramic head I will shoot 6 shots around, 1 up and 1 down to get the full 360. I shoot only RAW.

For each of these shots I will bracket 9 to 12 frames depending on the dynamic range. I will start with what the camera thinks is a proper exposure and then go down 8 stops.

From there I will shoot 1 frame every 2 stops (+2EV) until I capture 12 frames. This gives me more than enough to work with after the fact. The first image is very light and the last is almost completely dark if there are no windows or doors.

I will then load all images into LightRoom 5. Make any adjustments if necessary, especially to the White Balance as I'm shooting Auto but it's rare that I make any changes.

I will export all images to TIFF and run them through Photomatix 5 using the Exposure Fusion (Real Estate) settings - with adjustments.

I will open the nadir shot in Photoshop and remove the tripod with a channel mask and then just saving the image.

From there it's off to AutoPano Giga to stitch the panorama.

I then run it through KRPano Sphere to Cube so I can properly fix the Nadir shot and patch the black hole left by the tripod.

I remake the panorama with KRPano Cube to Sphere.

I run it back through PS or Lightroom to make minor adjustments and spot edits. Export to JPG and load it in to PanoTour Pro.

I know I need to work on the stitching errors but I don't have the best workflow for this. I bought a tutorial on line from a guy in Poland that has some tricks for this. I need to rewatch it and make this part of the workflow.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:46 pm 
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HawaiiHans wrote:
For each of these shots I will bracket 9 to 12 frames depending on the dynamic range. I will start with what the camera thinks is a proper exposure and then go down 8 stops.

From there I will shoot 1 frame every 2 stops (+2EV) until I capture 12 frames. This gives me more than enough to work with after the fact. The first image is very light and the last is almost completely dark if there are no windows or doors.

If you do a lot of this sort of pano shooting I recommend you consider getting a Promote Control to handle the bracketing:
http://www.promotesystems.com/products/ ... ntrol.html


Last edited by mediavets on Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:51 pm 
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I've looked at the Promote Control but I can't justify the price just yet. I'm not doing these 360's professionally. It's still a hobby with a few paid gigs per month. I did buy the CamRanger for another purpose and it also has a bracketing feature but it won't let me do this many frames. If I can line up more work then I will definitely make the purchase. Thank you for the recommendation.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:58 pm 
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HawaiiHans wrote:
I've looked at the Promote Control but I can't justify the price just yet. I'm not doing these 360's professionally. It's still a hobby with a few paid gigs per month. I did buy the CamRanger for another purpose and it also has a bracketing feature but it won't let me do this many frames. If I can line up more work then I will definitely make the purchase. Thank you for the recommendation.


Then I hate to think how little you charged for the tour of this opulent house.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:08 pm 
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mediavets wrote:
Then I hate to think how little you charged for the tour of this opulent house.


;) It's not much. I'm still building my portfolio and I don't feel like my work can justify higher prices...yet. I have a hard time selling a service if it's not perfect in every way. I have checked my "competition" and my prices are in line with what's available on this island. I do feel my work is significantly better as compared to what's available here but I still need to bring it up to my standards and hold up to the scrutiny of the Kolor community. I know it's impossible to satisfy everyone but I can at least try.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 10:32 pm 
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Oh dear.. So much extra work.. You really NEED to shoot your images using Manual.. Very important or you will have all kinds of issues. I would suggest if you have captured your images at 2 EV, X 12, is way too many... Try just using 6.. If you shot in RAW, edit your WB in that.. To process your images sincerely in Lightroom is adding to the issues... You are creating an artificial environment..

Destiny...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 10:41 pm 
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Destiny wrote:
Oh dear.. So much extra work.. You really NEED to shoot your images using Manual.. Very important or you will have all kinds of issues. I would suggest if you have captured your images at 2 EV, X 12, is way too many... Try just using 6.. If you shot in RAW, edit your WB in that.. To process your images sincerely in Lightroom is adding to the issues... You are creating an artificial environment..

Destiny...


Hi Destiny, thanks for the tip. I will set the white balance to indoor or shade or whatever the setting is. Just to be clear, I rarely edit the image or change the sliders in Lightroom and I only shoot RAW. I'm really only using it to export the images to TIFF. I'll try just using 6 frames spread over the entire dynamic range and skip LR all together. I can process RAW images in directly in PhotoMatix Pro correct? I haven't tried that yet. Excited to trim the workflow. :)


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 11:44 pm 
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HawaiiHans wrote:
For each of these shots I will bracket 9 to 12 frames depending on the dynamic range. I will start with what the camera thinks is a proper exposure and then go down 8 stops.


Do not let the camera decide ANYTHING for you. You need to carefuly measure a start-point - i prefer to start in the shadows: i look for the value which shows completely covered highlights and grow brighter step by step until details in the shadows become good recognizable. In many cases this needs at least 7 steps, usually 9 to sometimes 12 steps of 1 EV when you have very bright lights.
Don´t care of the number of shots - you anyway have only 6 or 7 positions, right? Using 9 or 12 shots i use JPGs - with lesser steps i prefer to use RAW.

After processing save the results as 16bit/TIFFs for stitching.

Besides of stitch-errors: i suggest to get rid of the very heavy CAs!

Klaus


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 12:37 am 
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Klaus, when you say "Heavy CAs", what does that mean?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 12:47 am 
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HawaiiHans wrote:
Klaus, when you say "Heavy CAs", what does that mean?



Hey Hans!

CA = Chromatic Abberations - it´s the purple, green, blue or red borders on some objects in each of your panos. They are caused by the lens and should better be treated.

Did you mention already which lens you used?

You can treat them the most effective in the RAW converter rather automatically be setting it up.

But you can also treat them in JPGs - less effectively, but it works ok.

After you eliminated the CAs the images look much cleaner and clearer.

best, Klaus

To be honest: i suggest to do the stitching again more carefully! They don´t meet the valueness of this beautiful estate!


Last edited by klausesser on Thu Jun 12, 2014 12:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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