Help with motorised pano head  

Everything you need to motorize your head
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mediavets
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by mediavets » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:56 am

irpano wrote:Hi again

Top - Snap - I assume the outlet for the camera
middle - In - 12 dc
bottom - out - 12 dc
Pin configuration centre + outer -

The trial camera is a Sony DSC F717 (sorry)
The remote connection on the Camera is stereo.
So is the top socket on the head a stero acting as a mono ?

yes, top 2.5mm socket is for the camera cable.

WRT your Sony F717.

I see that Sony's wired remote has a 2.5mm stereo jack plug.

So I suggest you try using the standard camera cable supplied with the Merlin head - it has a 2.5mm stereo jack plug on each end.


Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by fma38 » Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:41 pm

Yes, it should work.
Frédéric

Canon 20D + 17-40/f4 L USM + 70-200/f4 L USM + 50/f1.4 USM
Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Nokia N800 and HP TC-1100

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by mediavets » Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:42 pm

fma38 wrote:Yes, it should work.

Looking at this photo of remote for Pentax designed for the MZ-6, *ist Date, *ist D, *istDS, *istDL & *istDL2, the K10D and the K100D. I think there may be a good chance that the standarad camera cable supplied with the Merlin/Orion head may well work with thse camera.

Frederic, what do you think?

Image
Last edited by mediavets on Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by mediavets » Sun Nov 16, 2008 1:07 pm

I've just come across a description of how to modify the Nikon ML-3 IR remote control so that it can be activated using an external switch:
http://www.panoguide.com/r/?p=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pbase.com%2Fmiljenko%2Fmll3_wired

For those who are good at DIY this would be an alternative to the gentled-Jump IR trigger device that I use for my D40 on the Merlin with Papywizard:
www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/options.htm
www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/options.htm#IRjump
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by tived » Sun Nov 16, 2008 3:51 pm

Hi John

Did you buy your merlin in Oz, if so where? I am in Perth, and I too am very interested in this

thanks

Henrik

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by mediavets » Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:27 am

tived wrote:Hi John

Did you buy your merlin in Oz, if so where? I am in Perth, and I too am very interested in this

thanks

Henrik

Henrik,

This is the Merlin Multi-function mount you want:
http://www.skywatchertelescope.net/swtinc/product.php?id=119&class1=3&class2=306

The Australian distributor for Skywatcher is:
Tasco Sales (Aust.) P/L
6/9-13 Winbourne Rd,
Brookvale NSW 2100
Tel: (02) 9938-3244
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by BeeZed » Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:37 pm

Great to see some more folks down under getting going on these. Did either of you find a source for the BT>TTL electronics in Australia?

I ordered the BlueSMIRF from the States (Trossen Robotics) but had a friend post them to me, as they wanted $95 USD for shipping essentially two sticks of gum.

I tested the continuity on the supplied 2.5mm cable, and found that the middle contacts do not conduct at all. It it just mine? My Nikon D80 requires grounding of the equivalent to the middle (focus) contact, or it won't fire. I think a mono plug cable will fix it, but otherwise I had to short across when I made the new Nikon adapter.
I have also posted an article on my blog that covers some of my experiences in creating a working head: http://www.brewzone.com/2008/11/diy-pano-head Comments and questions are welcomed either here or there.


(In Australia or New Zealand) For resistors, 2.5mm plugs, and project box, just go to Dick Smith Electronics. The resistors cost $0.28 for 5.

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by fma38 » Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:37 am

Great article! I'll take the time to review it...
Frédéric

Canon 20D + 17-40/f4 L USM + 70-200/f4 L USM + 50/f1.4 USM
Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Nokia N800 and HP TC-1100

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by mediavets » Wed Nov 19, 2008 1:25 am

BeeZed wrote:I have also posted an article on my blog that covers some of my experiences in creating a working head: http://www.brewzone.com/2008/11/diy-pano-head Comments and questions are welcomed either here or there.
.

A brilliant blog article - the most detailed and complete yet on assembling a Merlin/Orion and Papywizard system. Thanks, that should help a lot of others pondering whether to jump onboard the Merlin/Papywizard project.

Clever use of a cannibalised PSU for the Bluesmirf. I think modifying a Tronisoft 4201 RS232-TTL module will be easier for most people than sourcing and adding a PSU to a Bluemirf - perhaps cheaper too. And as you say this option should soon be available as a no-soldering-required kit.

Is there really no source for the Merlin/Orion head closer to Australia and New Zealand than the USA?

It is not quite the case that the next stable version of Papywizard will allow definition of start and end points for a mosiac shoot without moving the head - instead (as well as the original method of moving the head to define start and end points) there will be additional ways of defining a mosaic shoot and these are available now in the latest development version of Papywizard for Nokia Tablets. These new methods are to manually enter values for desired Total pano FOV - for example 120 degrees HFOV x 90 degrees VFOV, or by manually entering values for the number of rows and columns of images you wish to shoot. Both of these methods of defioning a mosiac shoot are useful shortcuts for more experienced pano shooters.

Another recent change to the shooting 'methodology' is that the shooting poistions are now computed around the 0/0 centre point, and that centre point is 'remembered' until you reset it. This means that having finished shooting a scene you can change some aspect of the configuration, for example change the lens and the focal length values, or extend the size of the mosaic and shoot the 'same' scene again without having to move the head back to the original centre point before shooting.

In some future version of Papywizard (which is very actively developed) there will be an intervalometer feature that builds on this so you could for example setup the system to shoot the same scene every 15 minutes say, or to shoot the scene at a particular time.

There will soon also be a means of pausing a shoot and going back to an earlier shooting position and then reuming to shoot a section again, also the ability to skip foward and miss out some of the shooting positions.

Finally, while images shot with the Merlin/papwizard robotic pano head can be stitched with any pano stitching software, some mention could/should be made of what I believe will become a very special feature of the Merlin/Papywizard and Autopano Pro combination.

Kolor, the authors of Autopano Pro, have actively encouraged and supported the Merlin/Papywizard project from the outset. The next version of APP will have built-in support for a number of robotic heads - such as the Gigapan Imager, The Rodeo VR head and Merlin/Papywizard. In the case of Merlin/Papywizard the (Papywixard) software can optionally create an XML formatted data file that records details of the shooting position (Yaw/Pitch) of each image in a pano shoot and other information such as bracketing. APP will be able to read this data which will assist in positioning and stitching the images, in particular it will help a lot with that age old bugbear of pano shooters using longer focal length lenses with a smaller FOV - orphan images that lack sufficient distinguishing features to facilitate automatic or manual control point placement , such as shots of blue skies or featureless ceilings and so on.
Last edited by mediavets on Wed Nov 19, 2008 1:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by bigwade » Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:58 am

BeeZed
Thanks for detailed information on the blog, THIS IS GREAT !!

I have to wait for the postman...
Merlin from Austria and a 770 from eBay

I like your small BT solution but I wait for the plug&play version....
(Not that handy, haha !)
Have Fun !

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by bigwade » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:22 pm

The Merlin has arrived !
Plastic Fantastic ! :-)
It smells plastic, feels plastic but is very sturdy ! (much more than the gigapan beta unit)

Since there are so many crossposts, links to other posts in a post etc. on this forum I am missing the overview a bit.

Q1) is the BT module ready with the right cable ? (link where/what to order..??)

Q2) are there detailed photo's how to remove the current crown without damage ? (and mount it back if needed)

I have asked the Austrian Merlin-dealer if they could make a crown like:
http://www.autopano.net/forum/postgallery.php?pid=31556&filename=rotator_merlin_drawing.jpg
No answer yet.

Q3) Is THIS ring esp. designed for the Manfrotto 357 Railmount ? (because of the M5 holes) does the Manfrotto Railmount-base 357 fit ?
I like that solution.

grtz
Frank
Last edited by bigwade on Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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by fma38 » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:01 pm

A1) not yet, but stay tuned ;)

A2) removing the crown is very easy: just unscrew the central screw. Then, you will have to remove the red disc, carefully, with a thin blade, and put it on the new crown (you don't even need to put some glue; the old one will be enough).

A3) well, I'm not totally sure of the diamter of the M5 holes... The drawing shows 54mm. Trekker first drawing was using 50, but it was a mistake. As I already have done the crown, I made new holes putting the Manfrotto railmount on the crown, and pointing through its holes...

Theorically, you should use as M5 holes diameter twice the distance (l) between the 2 holes of the Manfrotto:

l = R * 2 * sin(60/2)

or

l = R = diameter / 2

I think that l = 28mm for the Manfrotto, so diamter should be 56. But please, double check, as I didn't measured l precisely.
Frédéric

Canon 20D + 17-40/f4 L USM + 70-200/f4 L USM + 50/f1.4 USM
Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Nokia N800 and HP TC-1100

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by fma38 » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:07 pm

A3) also look at Claude solution, to avoid changing the crown:

http://www.autopano.fr/wiki/action/view/T%C3%AAte_astronomique_Multi-fonctions_Merlin_Adaptation_M%C3%A9canique#Cales_de_d.C3.A9calage

Note that you will need to fill the gap near the bubble level, to avoid the light falling on the optical sensor.
Frédéric

Canon 20D + 17-40/f4 L USM + 70-200/f4 L USM + 50/f1.4 USM
Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Nokia N800 and HP TC-1100

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by bigwade » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:22 pm

I think the head will be stronger without that modification.

Your crown/Manfrotto solution is my first option :-)

btw my bubble level has a very big bubble.
Is the bubble easy to remove ?, I have some spares somewhere
(won't send back the head and I can live with the big bubble)

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by mediavets » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:57 pm

bigwade wrote:I think the head will be stronger without that modification.

Your crown/Manfrotto solution is my first option :-)

Will that enable you to achieve NPP with your cameras?

bigwade wrote:btw my bubble level has a very big bubble.
Is the bubble easy to remove ?, I have some spares somewhere
(won't send back the head and I can live with the big bubble)

So has mine, it occupies the whole visible area of the bubble level, it's obviously a manufacturing fault. I didn't send mine back either, the bubble level is not well placed to be easily viewed with a camera on the head anyway.

The first head I received had no battery holders.

Seems their QA is not too good.
Last edited by mediavets on Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by claudevh » Tue Nov 25, 2008 12:18 am

Hi all ...

Frank,

Before any modifications of the Merlin/Orion head, please check "if modification is mandatory". All is depending of the size of your camera !
What is the type of your camera, what will be the optics, what will be the type of pano's you want to do ?
With this kind of informations, we will be able to give you a general orientation of the type of modification ...

(could you update your "profile" with "signature" where you can put info's about you and your material ?)

BIGWADE wrote:Q1) is the BT module ready with the right cable ? (link where/what to order..??)

The "complete kit" is composed of 3 +1 parts:

1. RS232 adaptor (will be ready in a few days, I hope before the end of the week) ;)
2. BT module (idem !) ;)
3. "solderless" cable/connector (this will be availlable a few day's later) :/
4. Enclosure (will be delivered later ...) :(

At the begining only the RS232 adaptor and the BT module will be both availlable from the same supplier (TRONISOFT)
I am waiting myselve for the delivery of the last preserie prototype of the "modified RS232 adaptor" in order to check the conformity with the cable/connector.

I will post the links when availlable.

:cool:
:cool: Claude :cool:
Merlin + Papywizard on Windows 7 & Nokia 770 § N810 & Acer (Netbook) + PanoramaApp Androïd + Deltawave PapyMerlin BT + Autopano
Spherical Pano (180 x 360) with Canon 40D + Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 Zoom & Pôle Pano with Canon 5D MK2 and shaved Tokina 10-17 3.5-4.5 AF DX Fisheye
Gigapixel photography with Nikon D200 + Sigma 70-200 F 2.8 EX DG APO HSM

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by bigwade » Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:04 am

Oké Claude, there we go..:)
I'm a pro photographer with a small, but nice equiped, studio in the Netherlands.
I have worked with Hasselblads/Sinars up to 13x18cm Ektachromes in the old days.

For now I'm using 2 5D's for most of my daily work and a 400, 450D, 5D for 360x180 with sig8, sig10, sig15, Tok 10-17 mm FE.
17-40/24-105/24-70/70-200(x2)/50/300/100 etc. all Canon
and a 180 Tamron macro.
+10-22 and 17-85 for the 450D
Canon G9/G10 for Fun
Seitz VR Drive+ NN3 NN5(2x), gigapanbeta, a lot of remote stuff etc.etc. and a lot more.
But hey, I am not going to put that in my profile.. :)

For multishots in my studio I use the 70-200 f4 (have the 2,8 also but it's to heavy to do multishots.
Multishots are composed images (product-pano's ?) to get higher resolution than the 5D gives. (depends on the object, about 100-250 MB files 8bit)
I used a Manfrotto telelens support (Manfrotto 393/Bogen 3421 or http://tinyurl.com/yr9jkn, just a preview in landscape with the 17-40) for it but now I want the Merlin to do the job.
The great surprise was that the machine is very sturdy !!
So I have allready the short and extended Manfrotto rail wich fits the 357 mount. (and the 393)
I can live with the Merlin hand controller for now but I want a NPP solution for the M357 asap, The "A" Value..
The BT stuff can be added later for outdoorwork Hires pano's etc.
A N770 is on it's way ( I hope)
grtz
Frank
Last edited by bigwade on Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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by claudevh » Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:39 pm

Wow ! "alibaba cavern !"
:P

Anyway I will have a look on all the dimensions of your different camera's and let you know what will be the best for your purpose .... You will get an idea tomorrow !

But, if your intention is to use the MANFROTTO 357 as universal support, I thing that the only solution will be to use the "modified crown" of course!

Have a look here http://www.autopano.fr/wiki/action/view/T%C3%AAte_astronomique_Multi-fonctions_Merlin_Adaptation_M%C3%A9canique#Modification_de_la_couronne
:cool: Claude :cool:
Merlin + Papywizard on Windows 7 & Nokia 770 § N810 & Acer (Netbook) + PanoramaApp Androïd + Deltawave PapyMerlin BT + Autopano
Spherical Pano (180 x 360) with Canon 40D + Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 Zoom & Pôle Pano with Canon 5D MK2 and shaved Tokina 10-17 3.5-4.5 AF DX Fisheye
Gigapixel photography with Nikon D200 + Sigma 70-200 F 2.8 EX DG APO HSM

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by bigwade » Tue Nov 25, 2008 11:15 pm

Yes, I have seen the crown (of course, in several crosslinks, links in links, and other links etc on this forum :) ) and asked
Tommy from teleskop-austria (my Merlin supplier)
if he could make such a crown and that more people are interested if price is right.
He would discuss that with his college last weekend, but I have no answer yet.
I think there is a bit of confusion about the M5 adapter screw positions.
Is the image you linked correct with all the values to mount a 357 the easy way ?

Nokia 770 is in, but no time to play with it.
It came without manual and loader, a bit dirty :-) but with a softcase and 2 stilo's :-))
Cleaned it a bit and now it looks good and it works.
Never used such stuff.
Have to learn a lot, HaHa.
grtz
Frank

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by claudevh » Wed Nov 26, 2008 12:30 am

The linked image in the wiki was loaded by Frederic ...

Frederic can you say if the crown is adapted to the MANFROTTO 357 universal support ?
:cool: Claude :cool:
Merlin + Papywizard on Windows 7 & Nokia 770 § N810 & Acer (Netbook) + PanoramaApp Androïd + Deltawave PapyMerlin BT + Autopano
Spherical Pano (180 x 360) with Canon 40D + Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 Zoom & Pôle Pano with Canon 5D MK2 and shaved Tokina 10-17 3.5-4.5 AF DX Fisheye
Gigapixel photography with Nikon D200 + Sigma 70-200 F 2.8 EX DG APO HSM

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by fma38 » Wed Nov 26, 2008 7:52 am

Yes, but double-check with my explanation (A3):

http://www.autopano.net/forum/p33284-2008-11-24-23-01-57#p33284
Frédéric

Canon 20D + 17-40/f4 L USM + 70-200/f4 L USM + 50/f1.4 USM
Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Nokia N800 and HP TC-1100

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by irpano » Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:32 am

Hello again mediavets.
I finally have all of the components to connect my pc to the Orion head. I have followed (I think) all of the instructions on the forum and have set the Bluetooth BTlink module to 9600 baud and set the slide switch towards tha antenna. I notice that in this post you said that i need 2 x 200 ohm resisters and I can see from the image where they should be connected. I notice in a post from AMDantonio that he did not have these resisters installed. Is this because he is using some other method to reduce the voltage or do I have a newer version of the module from tronisoft and dont need the resisters.



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by bigwade » Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:59 am


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by claudevh » Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:37 am

Hi IRPANO,

I have seen that you have get the Tronisoft kit, but you don't probably get the Cable/Connector
I will contact you directly by Email for the procedure to get this Cable/Connector!
(FYI: the cable connector has the 2 resistors mounted inside ....!)

Please check your E mail !
;)

Thanks

Claude


:cool:
:cool: Claude :cool:
Merlin + Papywizard on Windows 7 & Nokia 770 § N810 & Acer (Netbook) + PanoramaApp Androïd + Deltawave PapyMerlin BT + Autopano
Spherical Pano (180 x 360) with Canon 40D + Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 Zoom & Pôle Pano with Canon 5D MK2 and shaved Tokina 10-17 3.5-4.5 AF DX Fisheye
Gigapixel photography with Nikon D200 + Sigma 70-200 F 2.8 EX DG APO HSM

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by fma38 » Sat Dec 20, 2008 11:16 am

Resistors are mandatory, to mix up read and write signals... I think they are under the red part of Claude's cable...
Frédéric

Canon 20D + 17-40/f4 L USM + 70-200/f4 L USM + 50/f1.4 USM
Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Nokia N800 and HP TC-1100

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