Help with merlin, papywizard, autopano, samyang 8mm  

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danielmartins
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Help with merlin, papywizard, autopano, samyang 8mm

by danielmartins » Sun Apr 22, 2012 6:09 pm

Hi,
I'm new to this forum and new to using autopano, merlin and papywizard. I've done some panoramic images in PTgui, some 360 panoramics and virtual tours, and I would like to begin doing some better and commercial work in this.
Well, my problem is that I'm trying to do a 360 pano with 8mm samyang, i tryied using the preset in papywizard (6@30 + 6 @-30) and the result I came up with was this:
http://imageupload.org/en/file/220360/captura-de-ecrap-2012-04-22-17.59.05.png

I get a better result without using the .xml information than what I get when I use it...
Am I doing something wrong? I put the camera aligned in the center, specify the arm position, focal length, everything... I'm probably doing something very wrong and I appoligize if this is a really stupid question, but I couldn't find any tutorial or answer that could help me.

Thank you.
Daniel Marrtins

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mediavets
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by mediavets » Sun Apr 22, 2012 6:21 pm

Welcome to the forum....

If you edit your message you will find an Image upload feature beaneth the Message edit box.
.........

I don't think it's necessary to use the XML data file when shooting with a fisheye lens.

The main benefit of the XML data file is to be had when shooting with much longer focal length lenses which have a much smaller field of view typically resulting in a number of 'featureless' images - white walls or plain blue skies - that the XML data will assist the stitcher to place and which would otherwise be left out of the stitch.

When shooting with a fisheye lens it's unlilkey you will ever have a featureless image in the image set.

The Papywizard Import wizard may have a problem with the Samyang because it provides no EXIF data in the images.
.....

I probably wouldn't choose that shooting pattern of 6 at +30 and 6 at -30 for your setup.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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danielmartins
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by danielmartins » Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:00 am

Thank you, you must be right, when I use longer focal lengths, like 20mm, 35mm or 90mm, the images align much more smothly, in a grid like of way. What pattern would you chose to shoot with an 8mm fisheye or 10mm. Any tips would be very much welcome at this time.

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viktorhotel
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by viktorhotel » Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:36 am

Hi,
This might help you. A link with tips for shooting patterns for many lens:
http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic-lens-database/

Volker

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mediavets
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by mediavets » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:50 pm

danielmartins wrote:Thank you, you must be right, when I use longer focal lengths, like 20mm, 35mm or 90mm, the images align much more smothly, in a grid like of way. What pattern would you chose to shoot with an 8mm fisheye or 10mm. Any tips would be very much welcome at this time.

On my manual Nodal Ninja 5L pano head I would use a pattern of 4-around with a pitch of about +5 degrees with an 8mm fisheye lens on a nikon cropped sensor (DX) body.

For a 10mm fisheye on a Nikon cropped sensor (DX) body I would use one of two patterns. Either 6-around at about -10 degrees pitch plus one-up (or two-up at 180 degrees yaw separation) at about +60 degrees pitch; or indoors I would choose 6-around at approx. -10 degrees pitch and 6-around at approx. +50 degrees pitch.

These patterns all leave a small 'hole' at the nadir about the size of the footprint of my Nodal Ninja 5L pano head rotator. A Merlin mount will have a larger footprint.

There are many alternative ways of handling the nadir 'hole'.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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danielmartins
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by danielmartins » Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:01 pm

Thank you mediavets,
I've been using the preset that i've made with the preset builder, it takes 6+6 just like you said. I usually also take one manualy of the ground at the place the tripod was and sometimes it works like a charm, other times, I have to tweek a little with the clone tool...

I'll try the other pattern you mentioned and compare some results ;) I really apretiate your help, thank you.

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chrusion
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by chrusion » Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:00 am

I get perfect stitches in Autopan Giga Pro with my 8mm Samyang lens on a Canon EOS Rebel T3i (1.6 crop) using a Nodal Ninja 5 in this way...

5 pix (72 deg yaw each) at -20 deg pitch and one zenith at the yaw starting point.

The -20 pitch captures the nadir without pinching and the Autopan anti-ghosting removes the upright arm, leaving nice small disc of the NN's base that's EASILY clone stamped out in Photoshop after converting the stitched equirectangular image to cubic faces.

The Merlin mount will not be so pretty as it's much more bulky and takes up more nadir. But here's my preset. No need to adjust if using a Nikon with 1.5 crop APS-c sensor. Obvious a full-frame 35mm sensor requires the lens hood to be shaved off and a 4 pix @ 0 deg shooting matrix (no zenith).

<preset name="Samyang 8mm: 5 pix @ -20 + zenith">
<tooltip>Samyang 8mm on Canon EOS (1.6 crop)
5 pix @ -20 degrees + 1 zenith
</tooltip>
<shoot>
<pict yaw="0.0" pitch="-20.0"/>
<pict yaw="72.0" pitch="-20.0"/>
<pict yaw="144.0" pitch="-20.0"/>
<pict yaw="216.0" pitch="-20.0"/>
<pict yaw="288.0" pitch="-20.0"/>
<pict yaw="360.0" pitch="90.0"/>
</shoot>
</preset>
Last edited by chrusion on Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
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