A default 360x180 setup  

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doceave
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A default 360x180 setup

by doceave » Sun May 23, 2010 12:30 pm

Hi there guys

I've been trying to come up with a default setting for use in 180x360 panos from which adjustments can be made. I'm using a basic setup ~ Merlin, Canon 400D, 18-55mm EFS lens...

What I'd like is some simple input from users of the forums as to settings that they'd use for indoor panos (assuming average sized, well lit room and my minimal equipment armament). Things like shooting mode, ISO, shutter and F-stop in particular. I understand the basic 'physics' of these camera settings, but I'm not finding any obvious optimal value range.

So e.g. ~ I'd camera in AV-mode with 18mm FL and F22 so such that distant and near objects are in focus. ISO of <400 so as to not produce grainy images.

(I am looking to purchase a FE lens for my bigger camera soon, but I wish to now employ a student to take pano's using my basic setup ~ hence the need for basic defaults)

Many thanks, and please do excuse the basic question. No need for in depth answers (Will test/trust your experience)

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by jeongyun » Sun May 23, 2010 1:30 pm

doceave wrote:Hi there guys

I've been trying to come up with a default setting for use in 180x360 panos from which adjustments can be made. I'm using a basic setup ~ Merlin, Canon 400D, 18-55mm EFS lens...

What I'd like is some simple input from users of the forums as to settings that they'd use for indoor panos (assuming average sized, well lit room and my minimal equipment armament). Things like shooting mode, ISO, shutter and F-stop in particular. I understand the basic 'physics' of these camera settings, but I'm not finding any obvious optimal value range.

So e.g. ~ I'd camera in AV-mode with 18mm FL and F22 so such that distant and near objects are in focus. ISO of <400 so as to not produce grainy images.

(I am looking to purchase a FE lens for my bigger camera soon, but I wish to now employ a student to take pano's using my basic setup ~ hence the need for basic defaults)

Many thanks, and please do excuse the basic question. No need for in depth answers (Will test/trust your experience)

I used to use the same lens and Canon DSLR fo a while.
That's not great for spherical panoramas as the setup requires about 30 pictures.
It was all right for cylindrical panos though.

ISO: If you do not need to freeze motion, stick with ISO 100.

Aperture: f/22 is not recommended. Past f/11 diffraction becomes very visible and image quality gets worse. f/11 for 1.6x crop, f/16 for full frame. check http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

Shooting mode: I use M(anual) mode all the time. Occasionally along with automatic exposure bracketing.

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by mediavets » Sun May 23, 2010 2:53 pm

doceave wrote:I've been trying to come up with a default setting for use in 180x360 panos from which adjustments can be made. I'm using a basic setup ~ Merlin, Canon 400D, 18-55mm EFS lens...

Do you have a proper pano head?

I am looking to purchase a FE lens for my bigger camera soon, but I wish to now employ a student to take pano's using my basic setup ~ hence the need for basic defaults

I don't see any point in employing anyone to shoot interior panos with your current setup since he/she will have little chance of getting decent results.

At the very least get a cheap Samyang fisheye - or one of its branded clones - before spending on employing someone. And if you don't have a proper pano head you'll need to get one, too.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by doceave » Sun May 23, 2010 10:42 pm

@jeongyun: Many thanks for the advice. I will run some tests using F11 and ISO100... May I ask why would one opt to use full M(anual) mode over Aperture priority mode? (I recall reading a tutorial describing the use of the latter)

I will also make use of the bracketing feature - but I'll post another question on this later...

Diffraction I see is quite a complex topic!


@mediavets: I use a Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Acer C204TMi - like yours... I just arrived in the mail! And I built my own BT-TTL module...

An FE lens is definitely next on the list, but for the first few shots I must make do with what I have. Pano photography is, at this point, a feasibility trial

What settings would you recommend Mediavets?

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by mediavets » Sun May 23, 2010 11:33 pm

doceave wrote:What settings would you recommend Mediavets?

Settings? Do you mean pattern of shooting?

If so, then this lens data base:
http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic/photography/lens_database.html
suggests you should shoot like this:
Min. shots (1.6x): N, 10 images every 36° at -45° pitch, 10 images every 36° at 0° pitch, 10 images every 36° at +45° pitch, Z

But you can forget the N(adir) shot as it would be worthless using the Merlin head.

So what you need to do is translate the info above into a custom preset for Papywizard - but take care that you have sufficient clearance so that the camera body doesn't hit the Merlkin mount for the +45 pitch shots and the Z(enith) shot.

This is where you find info about custom presets:
http://www.papywizard.org/wiki/UserGuideSvn#Presetmode

Good luck.
Last edited by mediavets on Sun May 23, 2010 11:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by doceave » Mon May 24, 2010 11:54 am

@mediavets: Thanks for the links... I have written my presets with slight deviation from the suggestion as vrwave.com ~ using 12 images instead of 10 for slightly greater overlap. I have not tested to see whether this is necessary but will do if someone will find cannot save the the trouble.

By setting I mean the default F-stop, ISO, shutter speed, shooting mode that you would use for an 18mm indoor spherical pano.

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by mediavets » Mon May 24, 2010 12:32 pm

doceave wrote:@mediavets: Thanks for the links... I have written my presets with slight deviation from the suggestion as vrwave.com ~ using 12 images instead of 10 for slightly greater overlap. I have not tested to see whether this is necessary but will do if someone will find cannot save the the trouble.

'Excess' overlap can cause problems rather than improve stitching becasue you can eaily get superfluous links between non-adjacent images and with pano scenes which have repetitive elements this can casue significant problems with the stitch requiring CP editing to remove those superfluous links - so often more is not better in terms of overlap.

By setting I mean the default F-stop, ISO, shutter speed, shooting mode that you would use for an 18mm indoor spherical pano.

Aperture - probably about f8; ISO - lowest or no more than 400; shutter speed - whatever is required to get a proper exposure; shooting mode - full manual for aperture, shutter speed, ISO, manual focus and per-pano custom white balance. Automatic exposure bracketing (AEB) if you are into that and the AEB range offered by the camera is sufficient to make a real difference (and with most consumer DSLRs it really isn't)..
Last edited by mediavets on Mon May 24, 2010 12:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.


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