Phil Howard wrote:Would the control points editor still be helpful in this case, even though the image in the edit window is coming out OK? I will be reading the documentation on control points editing tonight and giving that a try when I can.
I tried a stitch using every other image.
mediavets wrote:It is apparent that these images were not shot at regular yaw intervals.
I guess you did not use a click-stop pano head?
Perhaps you are using a standard tripod head rather than a pano head and estimating yaw intervals by eye?
If you are not using a proper pano head with camera/lens set at the NPP then you will get parallax errors - resulting in stitch errors in rendered pano - when shooting this sort of interior scene.
A proper pano head would also facilitate mounting the camera in a portrait orientation gving you a greater vertical FOV.
marco-pano wrote:Hi Phil,
I just looked inside your .pano file. I see that you shot 24 pics at 15° in landscape mode with focale 29.2mm equiv35 in a single row. You have about 76% overlapping which is really useless, it's even bad as you have 79 links in the pano when 24 would be enough. All these long links between non adjacent pics lead to a bad stitching and some links have probably CPs just on the edge of pictures.
Shooting 10 or 12 steps in a row with landscape give enough overlapping. Or you could shoot 15 pics in portrait mode.
You can also see this nice video http://www.autopano.net/wiki/action/view/Manual_stitching_of_panoramas
to delete all the long links and keep only those between adjacent pics.
You can also try a new detection with half of the pics. Keep detection with strong algorythm. You can try with quality standard or high. If your lens is good quality, unselecting lens correction give sometime better result as sometime APP is correcting distortion a bit too much (advanced distortion is useless with standard lens).
Shooting more images that necessary results in excessive overlaps which will cause even more problems when stitching - it will not ameliorate parallax problems, those can only be avoided by:
1. Having nothing much closer to the camera than about 100 metres.
2. Using a proper pano head with camera/lens set at correct NPP, pretty much essential for interior panos.
The most popular pano heads seem to be the Nodal Ninja 3 and 5 series. I have a NN5L it's very good.
mediavets wrote:You have browser that won't run Flash? Why use it? What use is that?
mediavets wrote:I think if you gave up on trying to create a 360 and went for partail pano you'd get a reasonable result. Are those ranks of pews really that interesting?
mediavets wrote:Here's partial - just 7 of your images. Cylindrical projection.
Still has a stitch error - but you could edit that with image editor?
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