Thank you so much! Wasn't just looking for it to get 'fixed', I'm very happy that you pointed me in the right direction to fix it myself. I'd rather be taught how to fish than to just be given a fish I will give that a go.
WRT your questions and observations, I was shooting with a Canon T2i (aka 550d) using a Canon EFS 10-22, Nodal Ninja 4 set to 60 degrees rotation (6 images per row). Yes, I was shooting with aperture priority: relatively new to all of this, and I found with my testing that AP can give a good result (or so I thought). And to add even more variability, I used a bounce flash off the ceiling while in AP for the 'middle' row (shooting straight ahead, not up and down), reason being that this fills and increases light in the room better and therefore reduces the contrast between inside/outside. It's a look that I like, but seems that technologically I may be walking a pretty slim tight rope.
I'd be interested in 'bracketed' workflow. I did try some HDR shots (post processed using Oloneo Photo engine (which I prefer over photomatix et al)) but found things to be very slow and unstable. Very willing to revisit workflow, with the ultimate goal of achieving good indoor/outdoor contrast.
GREAT link to vrwave.com canon lens databse, thanks. Looks like I shot with the minimum pattern for the lens, 6 images per row @ 30 degree pitch up and down (if I'm to read the chart correctly)
SO, the recommended is to shoot 4 images (90 degree steps) for -60 and +60 pitch, then 8 images (45 degree) at 0 pitch? That would mean I'd be shooting fewer 'ceiling' images than I shot for this particular project? Seems counterintuitive.
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