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Different brightness lines in Pano

PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 3:10 am
by susanner

I have a problem with my pano:

When I stitching my pictures together I have in the end different brightness lines in the picture. It does no matter if I take RAW oder JPG pictures. What I'm doing wrong?

PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 2:24 pm
by marzipano
In my experience this banding has 2 main causes:

1. The sun goes behind or comes out from behind clouds during the photographing of images that will be used to construct the panorama

2. Auto mode on the camera was used instead of manual settings (or Aperture Priority if the camera does not have full M mode). This can lead to some of the images in the panorama set being much brighter than others

both of the above can cause this banding in your examples

I haven't tried this myself but I would imagine that some of this could be reduced by processing the images in a photo editor to reduce or increase the brightness to make them all more similar

Within APP/APG when in edit mode, call up Preview mode and set the blending indicator to zero (0) which will give the maximum blending across the whole panorama as in the two samples below where the first (level -2) is the default blending and the second (level 0) is the max.


PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 2:39 pm
by klausesser
susanner wrote:Hello

I have a problem with my pano:

When I stitching my pictures together I have in the end different brightness lines in the picture. It does no matter if I take RAW oder JPG pictures. What I'm doing wrong?


Try the color-correction and use the anchors. Using the anchors is somewhat funny and - no surprise - far from being well documented :cool: but with a lot of try and error you most likely will prevail!

best, Klaus

PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:02 pm
by susanner
Hi Martin and Klaus

Thanks for your answers. I used manuel mode on my Canon EOS M, i used everywere neutral mode without system corrections.
Is my setup in the print screens correct?

PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:29 pm
by Artisan S.
Goodevening Sussane,

Klaus is refering to the color achors.....that is in the edit menu (at least in version 2.6 which I'm still using). In my version its a icon like three colors (red, green and blue) and a crayon in the middle. Open that and you'll find a plane with color anchors. Now you will see pins and graphs....and from there it becomes problemantic. You will need to fiddle around a bit (or a bit more) with those pins and graphs, to get the best results. Looking at your pictures the light has changed during your shoot. Partially cloudy skies are a pest, since you wanna shoot fast but also wanna shoot with the same light. But not to worry.

Just pic the darker spots (pictures) and turn them into color achors together with a lighter one (leftclick on the picture and select the anchor). That is stupid I know but in my experience this sort of gives APP room to play with the relative brightness of the photo's. Nice is that APP does this in realtime (at least my version).

All the non achors I would set at "Adjust gamma exposure and color tone" (since different light means also different color tone) and then see what happens until the result looks satifiying. Now that will take a little experimentation since every "####" input (unwanted in this case) has it's own problems. Just fiddle around with the settings until you get fed up....then store and start over the next day (sometimes in verry difficut cases that has been my solution since after a good nights sleep creativity flows more freely).

This is the page in the "manual"......

Greets, Ed.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 12:21 am
by lumelix
If I see it correct, you have exposure times from 1/160 to 1/3200 ?
This can make trouble ;)
Cloudy sky is allways a challenge. Different light every few seconds.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:03 am
by susanner
Hi Artisan

Thanks a lot for your informations. I tried everything with achor, but it don't solve de problem.:(

PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:22 am
by susanner
Hi Martin

Thank you too for your answer. I uesed the modus "aperture priority", so then I have everyvere problems (even there are no clouds - see attachment). But I think your idea is the right way to solve the problem.

Is it better when i use the shutter priority?
Is it wrong when I disabled the automatic white balance?

I tried to stich the same location without clouds, but there also the same problem: In some areas of the pictures the brightness is too high or a lot too low. See the picture below. Somebody know how i can solve the problem?

Here are all pictures, if someone will try it:

PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 9:33 am
by lumelix
The best way is to shoot totally manually. Manual aperture and manual exposure time.
So you have identical exposure for every image.
It's clear, with 360-pano or when there is cloudy sky and sun, you have big brightness differences.

Manual WB setting is important to. It's really difficult to correct different WB.

But Autopano have really good skills to correct moderate differences in WB and exposure.
I will try your example Images to see if color correction and blender settings can fix your issue. Will show the result here later - stay tuned ;)

PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:14 am
by susanner
Hi Martin

Thanks you a lot. For me it is very difficult, I use everyvere manual mode (like kolor autopano and you suggest) but it is not working.:)
But I'm very excited about your try with my pictures.



PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:15 am
by marzipano
I think going for the same M setting for every shot is preferable to Aperture Priority if your camera has that facility. "A" mode is next best if your camera does not support full "M" (e.g. some up-market pocket digital cameras have A mode but not full M)

I downloaded all you images but found your shooting pattern unusual to say the least but in general it looked like you have much too much overlap between many of the images (20% is reckoned to be optimum by many)

I think your banding is caused partly by using A rather than M mode and also because of the high overlap you have large portions of the same view with different exposures in different images

When I just looked at the top row of your 42 images (first 11 images) and used blending level 0 instead of -2 default, it produced less banding than you had


PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:39 am
by lumelix
Hi Mario
I try it out. There are two issues:
1. There is a lot of vignetting between the images. APG isn't able to correct strong vignetting at the moment (see example).
Specially in blue sky it is allways visible. So try out to correct vignetting first in a photo application.

2. You shoot with a lot of different exposure time. This isn't the best way for giga panoramas.
You can see the effects in the examples below. If we set the anchor points in the upper or lower row,
we get completely different results. This is because of the big differences in exposure time.

The best result I can get is with two anchor points and only exposure correction (see example).
I hope you can see how the color correction works with this examples.

I have looked the technical spec. for the Canon EOS M. I see this cam have a manual modus, where you can set a fix time and aperture.
The WB have also a custom setting, where you can choose a fix WB-value.

Btw. I like this shoot from Cham. Did you use a flying drone to take this pictures ?

PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:30 am
by ronwillium00
A fascinating discussion is worth comment.
I do believe that you should write more about this subject,
To the next! Many thanks!!