Problem stitching panorama  

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Duranno
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Problem stitching panorama

by Duranno » Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:56 am

I taked 78 images with Papywizard and Merlin/Skywatcher mount and Sony Nex 5 at 18mm. I have a problem with the images on the sky that are not stiched. Any solution?

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Omar

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by a a gruntpuddock » Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:53 am

I go into the 'move images' mode with the grid enabled.
You can see where each shot should go by its number, just drag it until it is in the right place relative to the grid.
Last edited by a a gruntpuddock on Thu Apr 12, 2012 1:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by Duranno » Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:12 am

tks, there is a tutorial how doing this?

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by a a gruntpuddock » Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:11 pm

Image

No tutorial as far as I know.

I shot a large pano but the camera batteries failed before it finished. Autopano could assemble the bits with the buildings but omitted shots showing only the sky (it was pretty uniform).

I tried 'Force every image to be in one panorama' but Autopano just shoved all the pictures it could not use into a grey blob at the bottom left of the picture.

I abandoned it until I was moving images in another pano using the grid (View,Grid) and realised that it might work on the failed pano.

I moved all the jumbled shots up into the sky then brought the relevant ones (look at the shot numbers) back down in the right order.

The unused shots were then deleted.

It was fairly simple to line up the shot numbers in relation to the numbers on the left and below then Autopano could create the pano.

Time-consuming, but it worked!
Last edited by a a gruntpuddock on Thu Apr 12, 2012 1:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by gkaefer » Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:18 pm

Hi Omar,

welcome on Forum ;-)

you write you used papywizard...
did you also use the option to log the papywizzard movements in the xml file? and later did you use this xml file in combination of the papywizard xml import filter autopano is providing? In general such movement/alignment issues are solved automatically.

in autopano settings theres also an option settings->Detection->Links: Force every image to be in one panorama

Liebe Gruesse,
Georg
Last edited by gkaefer on Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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by Duranno » Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:00 pm

Ok, i understood how it works, so i put the pictures manually. I used Papywizard, but this was my first panorama so i seted papywizard with 28mm Lens, but i did photo at 18mm focal. So i can't use the xml file.
Wich is better for mountain panorama with cloud, use the 18mm focal lenght or 28mm? I'm thinking that wind change the cloud during exposure, with 28mm is 15min long, and this is not good for stiching.

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by gkaefer » Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:29 pm

you can use the xml file

you can open the xml file in every textesitor and correct the used focal ;-)
you also can run papywizard in simulation mode to recreate a new xml file with correct values

Georg

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by Duranno » Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:41 pm

Ok.
So i did my first panorama. I had some problem with joomla but now it works:

http://www.sentieridimontagna.com/360%C2%B0/Cornier.swf

Thanks for your help.

Omar

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by digital paradise » Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:41 pm

Hello. I am also a new user. Until last week I have never created a pano. I was never interested. I tried several different pano software developers and it seemed Autopano was the most consistent provided the user supplies good images. I learned about parallax the hard way. Instead of starting a new thread I just decided to add to this one.

So just for a little background info. I just got a job doing a bit of real estate photography. I had my second job last Thursday. My first was a disaster. As a mentioned I learned about parallex the hard way. I was able to salvage 2 out of 4 required panos but only after 8 hours of editing. I did not want to spend any money on software so I was using free software. Again after testing different pano software I took a chance and purchased Autopano Pro the night before the job. I was just amazed at how fast it is compared to the demo. 12 images and it takes about 32 seconds from the time I click on select images to a rendered pano on my desktop. All I can say is wow. I think I made the right choice.

On Thursday I shot 4 panos and 3 were fantastic. My fourth one did not work out. I am an avid photographer and there is not much out there I cannot handle but I am struggling with this. Everything in this thread may as be a different language because I'm lost with the explanations.

I was wondering if someone could just explain the process to try attempt to salvage this if it happens again in the future. Remember I an infant so go easy on me. Once I get past the basics I'll figure the rest out.

These are unedited for colour, etc. Just and example. I figure the failure to stitch was due to not enough info. No pictures, no furniture, etc.

Thanks in advance.

Image
Last edited by digital paradise on Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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by mediavets » Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:52 pm

Welcome to the forum...

digital paradise wrote:I figure the failure to stitch was due to not enough info. No pictures, no furniture, etc.

I think you are probably right about the reason for problems stitching.

If you run into this sort of scene again, one lacking many features for automatic control point detection, then one trick is to stick coloured post-it notes around to provide features for the stitcher and then edit these out later in the stitched image.

You may be able to take a similar approach with the shots retrospectively using an image editor on the input images.

You could also (or instead) try placing manual control points.

What a camera and lens did you use? Do you have proper pano head now?

..........

By the way - if you use Post reply rather than Quick post you will find a feature that allows you easily to upload images with your post. You can Edit an existing post to add images too. You'll find the image upload feature beneath the message edit box.
Last edited by mediavets on Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by digital paradise » Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:21 pm

Thanks for responding so quickly. No I don't have a proper pano head as I'm trying to keep my costs down. I'm semi retired and I'm doing this on the side for something to do. It does not pay very much as I'm just subcontracting but it is interesting.

I do have a very heavy sturdy tripod and a Markins ball head. The biggest one they sell. I use RRS brackets and clamps. I have an L bracket on my camera. I purchased a Novoflex macro rail a few years ago and the L bracket just fits into the Novoflex clamp. That macro rail was not inexpensive. Very solid and precise. I was lucky as you could not get a sheet paper between the clamp and bracket. So no I can shoot in landscape or portrait mode.

I looked up the information for the nodal point in the lens and moved the camera back via the rail to the correct spot. I also figured out out the centre orientation. Since I use a ball head it gets a little tricky. I first level the base of the tripod and then the head itself using the bubble level. This takes a few extra minutes and is a bit of a pain but it works. The bubble is pretty consistent as I rotate the head. If I continue to do this I will probably eventually get this to save some time.

http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PCL-1&type=0&eq=&desc=PCL-1%3a-Panning-Clamp

I'm shooting with a 7D and Tokina 11-16. I have a 5D2 but no WA lens for it that will match the Tokina's IQ. I know you can shoot with a FF at 16 but I have not tried that yet. Too big a leap right now. Hoping to get the 17 or 24 TSE II one day.

Great idea about the posted notes. I was wondering about something like that. Simple solution.

Yes - I would like to know how to manually place the control points. I'm having trouble getting started with this. AP created 3 separate files. Now what do I do with that?
Last edited by digital paradise on Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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by digital paradise » Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:26 pm

In case you read my last post before I made corrections the link to RSS was incorrect. It is fixed now.

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by mediavets » Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:00 pm

digital paradise wrote:Thanks for responding so quickly. No I don't have a proper pano head as I'm trying to keep my costs down. I'm semi retired and I'm doing this on the side for something to do. It does not pay very much as I'm just subcontracting but it is interesting.

You will find it difficult to avoid parallax problems, and hence major stitching problems, shooting interior panos with your current setup.

Consider getting a proper pano head sooner rather than later. The Nodal Ninja range is very popular.

Shooting with your wide angle lens on the 7D is going to produce a much higher res. pano that would typically be used for real estate work which is more typically shot with a fisheye lens (much greater FOV, many fewer images required and easier to stitch).

Yes - I would like to know how to manually place the control points. I'm having trouble getting started with this. AP created 3 separate files. Now what do I do with that?

You need to force all the images into one pano (see below) and then use the Control points Editor to try and add manual control points between images that are not linked:
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/action/view/Autopano_Giga_-_Panorama_Editor_-_Control_Points_Editor

There are also some related video tutorials:
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/action/view/Autopano_Giga_Documentation#Video


Last edited by mediavets on Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by digital paradise » Sun Apr 22, 2012 1:04 am

Thanks.

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by digital paradise » Sun Apr 22, 2012 4:02 pm

I do have another question. Why will it be difficult to avoid parallax problems with my current set up? They person I work for has a $500 pano head. It more elaborate but just like him I have my nodal point centred on the the tripod. The camera is about 5 inches back. I found a site that showed how to set it up. You take two objects (I used light stands) and you place one close to you and one far away. Using live view you swing the camera side to side and both light stands should always be aligned. I used that and the actual nodal location which is 65.6mm from the back back of the lens. You measure from the lens mount plate.

I plan to get more gear aft this goes well. The first 3 panos were perfect with my current sweet up. I'm asking in case I'm missing something else.

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by mediavets » Sun Apr 22, 2012 4:23 pm

digital paradise wrote:I do have another question. Why will it be difficult to avoid parallax problems with my current set up? They person I work for has a $500 pano head. It more elaborate but just like him I have my nodal point centred on the the tripod. The camera is about 5 inches back. I found a site that showed how to set it up. You take two objects (I used light stands) and you place one close to you and one far away. Using live view you swing the camera side to side and both light stands should always be aligned. I used that and the actual nodal location which is 65.6mm from the back back of the lens. You measure from the lens mount plate.

I plan to get more gear aft this goes well. The first 3 panos were perfect with my current sweet up. I'm asking in case I'm missing something else.

Your setup should be OK regarding the NPP IF you only shoot a single row.

I can't see how it will maintain the NPP if you are shooting multiple rows.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by digital paradise » Mon Apr 23, 2012 2:31 pm

Good point. I don't think I'll ever see multiple rows. It is not required for what I'm doing and I just don't have any interest right how. Currently my heart stops for a second each time I hit the detect button with just 12 images. I don't need anymore excitement :) Thanks again for your help.
Last edited by digital paradise on Mon Apr 23, 2012 2:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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by mediavets » Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:33 pm

digital paradise wrote:Good point. I don't think I'll ever see multiple rows. It is not required for what I'm doing and I just don't have any interest right how. Currently my heart stops for a second each time I hit the detect button with just 12 images. I don't need anymore excitement :) Thanks again for your help.

With a proper pano head shooting and stitching multiple rows is pretty much as easy as shooting a single row.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by digital paradise » Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:12 am

Good to know. Again thanks for the valuable info.


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