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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 3:23 pm 
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Hello, I can speak Turkish. I do not speak English. I wrote this text with google translation.
There's no one who spoke Turkish. My problem is the following:

Uniting detection problem when performing live ... I am making efforts for hours.

Canon EOS 60D, Sigma 8mm fisheye and using manfrotto 303sph.

In general, the location'm not shooting. take pictures with the ceiling 7. Organizing a tripod with a spirit level and 303sph correctly. But when I take the program properly create a panorama. I've tried all the methods. I do not understand where the error. In general, indoor shots, walls, doors, closets not linked. Please could you help?

Here you can download sample images ...
http://www.co2medya.com/test.rar


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 6:47 pm 
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I am on it!

Did you use a panohead like the Nodal Ninja?

So far it is looking decent. RMS 5.63, doing 360 * 180 degrees

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


Last edited by HansKeesom on Fri Jun 14, 2013 6:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 6:50 pm 
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Location: Isleham, Cambridgeshire, UK.
You are not using fully manual exposure settings - all settings should be manual, shutter speed, aperture, white balance, ISO - and you should use the same settingss for all images in the pano.

Turn off the orientation sensor in the camera.

I suspect your camera/lens are not quite correctly set at the NPP.

.........


You have too many images.

You only need 4 in the main row. More results in excess overlap which causes stitching problems.

If you set your pano head to +7 degrees on the pitch axis and shoot 4 around you won't need the zenith shot yet will still have a relatively small 'hole' at the nadir.

..............

With your current image set.

1. Set detection to High.

2. Use the Control Points editor to remove links between non-adjacent images.



_________________
Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


Last edited by mediavets on Fri Jun 14, 2013 7:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 7:05 pm 
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Location: Isleham, Cambridgeshire, UK.
HansKeesom wrote:
Did you use a panohead like the Nodal Ninja?

This is his setup:

Canon EOS 60D, Sigma 8mm fisheye and using Manfrotto 303sph.

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:20 pm 
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We thank you very much. I apologize. English may be poor. I know because I'm Turkish. I'm starting to contact you by Google Translate. :) I job virtual tour.
  I'm working on projects for days. Sewing errors are driving me crazy. Photoshop trying to improve. There are hundreds of photos of the virtual tour. Due to errors in stitching the photos I took a long time to get over and over again for hours is rendered. A very hard time. 'll Try what you say. There are hundreds of photos taken in too late.

The image that you have created over the windows, beds, cabinets, shelving, errors occur in many places, such as. I try but I can not control points editor to edit them.
I understand you had told me.
All settings must be manually .. but it is more than light or where there is very little need to make changes to the shutter or iso?
Having all the settings manually in varying light conditions too dark or too bright results can not you?

As you say, will set all settings manually.
No need to take in order to avoid errors in Seam 4 enough to take a lot of photos, you say. I will consider this warning.
If you combine as many photos as I did the opposite of errors is less than I thought.


Last edited by gokhankirca on Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:57 pm 
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If shooting just 4-around at +7-7.5 degrees pitch leaves you with a lot of stitch errors then that definitely suggests that the NPP is not set correctly. If the NPP is correct and you shoot the correct number of shots then stitching should be realtively easy. If the NPP is not set correctly and you shoot the wrong number of images you may never be able to get a good stitch.

If there is a huge difference in lighting in parts of the room then you will need to consider exposure braketing and exposure fusion, but that adds a whoe extra load of complexity. So try to control the lighting by shooting a certain times of day, and using interior lights etc.

360 x180 panos of interiors are some of the most difficult panos to shoot.

_________________
Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


Last edited by mediavets on Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 1:00 am 
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Here you have the .pano and the psd https://www.dropbox.com/sh/y5n5v2lmulbz0li/oWrB5BSZsB

The pattern looks fine to me. Would be nice to add a nadir shot.

A first improvement would be to have one steady exposure time and to use exposure bracketing. Personally I think exposure bracketing is not that difficult.

Manual WB is better but you need to know what you are doing.

Another tip is to shoot RAW+jpg, just to be sure

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 7:50 am 
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HansKeesom Thank you very much. It's beautiful, no mistake. How did you do? :)


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 9:17 am 
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You are welcome, I just loaded them as 8,7 mm fisheyes and had the default fisheye treatment on them. Then I do a few tricks in the editor with ctrl points and optimalisation.

The gold is in the settings, find the right settings in the editor and you are more then half way of fixing things. As part of my income relies on these tricks and settings I hope you understand I prefer to keep them to myself a bit.

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:01 am 
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HansKeesom wrote:
The pattern looks fine to me.

Really?

You think it's desirable to shoot 6-around plus zenith when using a 8mm Sigma FE on a cropped sensor Canon body?

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:14 am 
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mediavets wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
The pattern looks fine to me.

Really?

You think it's desirable to shoot 6-around plus zenith when using a 8mm Sigma FE on a cropped sensor Canon body?

it is not the ultimate thing to do , but there is not problem stitching it.

The zenith is always practical in case things need to be tied to gether. Even when the other photos close the zenith already I advice my photographers to throw in a zenith shot if they have the time, it sometimes helps me, sometimes not when stitching. It is easier to throw away a photo that was made in vain then add it when it is not shot.

I would also tilt the row a bit to get rid of tripod parts. But I would also add a number of nadirs.

4 versus 6, hmmm I would not advice 4 on a cropped sensor as often at the outside of the lens there will be some lens problems. Six is a bit safer and ties things together easier.

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:28 am 
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HansKeesom wrote:
4 versus 6, hmmm I would not advice 4 on a cropped sensor as often at the outside of the lens there will be some lens problems. Six is a bit safer and ties things together easier.

Interesting - I don't think I've ever heard anyone else ever advocate 6-around when shooting with a Sigma 8mm FE on a cropped sensor body.

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:41 am 
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mediavets wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
4 versus 6, hmmm I would not advice 4 on a cropped sensor as often at the outside of the lens there will be some lens problems. Six is a bit safer and ties things together easier.

Interesting - I don't think I've ever heard anyone else ever advocate 6-around when shooting with a Sigma 8mm FE on a cropped sensor body.

Advocate might be a strong word. Looking at the set of photos that was offered by the OP, there is no problem in the fact that he did make 6 photos around. Would he have saved time making only 4 photos, yes, certainly, problably about 20 seconds on the location. Thing is, once you are at home 4 photos can turn out harder to stitch then 6 photos. Will 4 photos stitch allright in 90% of the cases, yes sure they will. But in the 10 % they cause trouble, I prefer to have 6, saves me lots of time behind the computer.

So say we compare the time needed to make 10 panoramas. Shooting 6 photos around will add 10 time 20 seconds, 3 minutes and 20 seconds.

Now say one of the ten panoramas is hard to stitch, will that cause more then 3 minutes and 20 seconds to correct if possible at all? Problably..... so better safe then sorry.

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:27 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
Advocate might be a strong word. Looking at the set of photos that was offered by the OP, there is no problem in the fact that he did make 6 photos around. Would he have saved time making only 4 photos, yes, certainly, problably about 20 seconds on the location. Thing is, once you are at home 4 photos can turn out harder to stitch then 6 photos. Will 4 photos stitch allright in 90% of the cases, yes sure they will. But in the 10 % they cause trouble, I prefer to have 6, saves me lots of time behind the computer.

I agree completly!

Leaving away one or two shots when you or the app recognize them being redundant isn´t a problem at all. But you cannot *add* a shot you didn´t make.

I´d never suggest to use as few shots as possible - that always bear risks. So i always suggest to use fullframe-fisheyes instead of circulars - aside from situations you are forced
do take as few shots as possible . . like crowded places, sports or so.

Buit indoor-shooting apartments, car-interiors or so - which mean static environments - there is no real need for reducing the amount of shots to an absolute minimum.

And so there´s no time-saving at all when you need a lot of additional time for compensating issues due to fewer shots in the editor . . .

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:27 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
Now say one of the ten panoramas is hard to stitch, will that cause more then 3 minutes and 20 seconds to correct if possible at all? Probably..... so better safe than sorry.

I 'get' your point.

But sometimes the excessive overlapping you have shooting 6-around can itself cause problems, with APP/APG then creating false links between non adjacent images; even though that these are relatively easy to fix once you are familiar with the Control Points Editor.

_________________
Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 2:01 pm 
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mediavets wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
Now say one of the ten panoramas is hard to stitch, will that cause more then 3 minutes and 20 seconds to correct if possible at all? Probably..... so better safe than sorry.

I 'get' your point.

But sometimes the excessive overlapping you have shooting 6-around can itself cause problems, with APP/APG then creating false links between non adjacent images; even though that these are relatively easy to fix once you are familiar with the Control Points Editor.

I would love to put my teeth in such a set of photos and prove myself wrong ;-) Any change you send me such set?

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 7:11 am 
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This tutorial is a kind of detailed photographs could not stitch properly ... Can you help?

http://www.co2medya.com/sauna.rar


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