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In the panorama field, hardware is also part of the success. You can discuss here about it: camera, computer, pano head, anything
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by mediavets » Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:46 pm

Adam wrote:BTW how do I setup my prifile on this forum?
Thank you!

Click on your user name to the left of any of your posts.
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Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Paul » Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:00 pm

Adam wrote:Now I need inexpensive attachment to take care of nodal point for Tokina 116 and Nikon 18-200 lenses. Any suggestions for this hardware?

take a look here on M or L http://www.roundabout-np.de/pageID_5789279_en.html
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close, but no cigar ... ... ...

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by mediavets » Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:41 pm

Paul wrote:
Adam wrote:Now I need inexpensive attachment to take care of nodal point for Tokina 116 and Nikon 18-200 lenses. Any suggestions for this hardware?

take a look here on M or L http://www.roundabout-np.de/pageID_5789279_en.html
http://www.roundabout-np.de/Bilder/Gr_Roundabout-NP.jpg

I've not come across the Roundabout-NP heads before. Have you actually used one, Paul?

They look pretty good for the price other than the inability to change the number of click stops on the rotator, although one could choose the model without the rortator and use a different rottaor which offered a greater variety of click stops. I liked the ability to see the angle of yaw from the top.

I wasn't able to figure out whether the S, M and L variants are all the same price as the 'Order' button didn't seem to work.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Paul » Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:58 pm

mediavets wrote:I wasn't able to figure out whether the S, M and L variants are all the same price as the 'Order' button didn't seem to work.

all variants same price

Michael Wildbiehler offers individual sizes too (don't know if extra charge)
he sells also on ebay as seller "roundabout-np"
Paul

close, but no cigar ... ... ...

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by mediavets » Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:12 pm

Paul wrote:
mediavets wrote:I wasn't able to figure out whether the S, M and L variants are all the same price as the 'Order' button didn't seem to work.

all variants same price

Michael Wildbiehler offers individual sizes too (don't know if extra charge)
he sells also on ebay as seller "roundabout-np"

If all same price then it's very good value I think, as long as your camera and lens weigh in at under the specified 3Kg. upper limit.

There are quite a few nice design features - the integration of the Manfrotto QR is very neat.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:48 pm

Is item Nodal Ninja 5L to NN5 Our Price: $50.00 enough for me to start taking panoramas? I was thinking to attach it to my current Bogen 804RC2 head. Am I missing something?
interested in panorama photography

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by mediavets » Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:53 pm

Adam wrote:Is item Nodal Ninja 5L to NN5 Our Price: $50.00 enough for me to start taking panoramas? I was thinking to attach it to my current Bogen 804RC2 head. Am I missing something?

That $50 offer is an upgrade for existing NN5L owners.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:19 am

So, what do you suggest I should get without breaking the bank? Thanx!
interested in panorama photography

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by mediavets » Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:06 am

Adam wrote:So, what do you suggest I should get without breaking the bank? Thanx!

Looks like you've already invested a stack of money on camera bodies and lenses, and now just spend $110 on the levelling centre column.

If you are a bit strapped for cash, perhaps you'd have been better off spending that money on a decent pano head and put up with leveling the tripod via leg adjustment for now? A decent pano head is a vital piece of kit if you want to get good results easily.

Which camera body and lenses do you plan to use to shoot panos?

The D300 is a pretty heavy body at 825g without batteries, your D70s weighs 600g without batteries, and your Tokina 116 weighs 560g, and many of the less expensive pano heads would struggle with the weight.

That's why I suggested the NN5L - it is easy to purchase in the USA, and it will handle all your gear at a reasonable price.

You may get away with a Nodal Ninja 3 - depends on which lenses you may wish to use now and in the future. That has a max. load of 3Kg but is rather smaller, less stable and less strong than the NN5L. That said there are people who use it with the Canon 5D which weighs about the same as your D300:
http://store.nodalninja.com/category_s/32.htm

The least expensive 'credible' pano head is the Panosaurus ($75.95): http://gregwired.com/pano/pano.htm

But your gear is on the limit of what it can handle, so I cannot recommend it to you.

Here's what they say:

"The Panosaurus is not recommended for a camera and lens combination that weighs more than 3.2lbs (1.4 kgs). The problem with weight is related to the weight of the head itself. Since the head is so light (less than 2 lbs) it becomes unstable when too much weight is applied. This causes the head to be very subject to wind or any other vibration. In a light wind the camera and head will slightly shake making it nearly impossible to shoot without having the pictures blur. Shooting indoors with no wind would make it more likely to be able to shoot successfully. The head is more susceptible to the weight problem when you are using a long lens that causes you to push the camera a long way back on the upper horizontal arm in order to position the lens at its nodal point. This is because most of the weight is not centered over the point of rotation but back on the upper arm. Some people have worked around the weight issues (to a degree) by holding a hand on the head to steady it when shooting."
Last edited by mediavets on Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:52 am

Thank you very much for a very informative reply.
The reason that I bought CF tripod is that I like to travel as lite as possible.
In this economy I do have to watch what I buy. Business is slow now.
Although I am not new to photography, I'm green when it come to panoramas. Just starting out. I have some acceptable results without extra equipment, but nothing to rave about. In software dept I use only Autopano that I just purchased.
In the future I think I will get NN5 setup. Have to save some $$$. I'm done with buying lenses and cameras.
Now I need to learn more about shooting panoramas. Looking for good resources and perhaps a book or two.
I'm open to any suggestions on this subject.
interested in panorama photography

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by mediavets » Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:47 am

Adam wrote:I have some acceptable results without extra equipment, but nothing to rave about. In software dept I use only Autopano that I just purchased.
In the future I think I will get NN5 setup. Have to save some $$$. I'm done with buying lenses and cameras.
Now I need to learn more about shooting panoramas. Looking for good resources and perhaps a book or two.
I'm open to any suggestions on this subject.

The purpose of using a proper pano head is to enable rotation of the camera/lens around the lens NPP (No Parallax Point) which as it suggests avoids parallax issues which cause problems when stitching.

Parallax is a bigger issue with shorter focal length lenses with scenes closer to the camera - shoting indoor scenes with a fisheye lens would be the extreme case.

If you have nothing in a scene closer than about 100m then parallax is not an issue.

A pano head also helps ensure consistently adequate overlaps between images when shooting with longer focal length lenses where you need multiple rows to cover a scene.

A good pano head just makes it all much easier, shooting and stitching.

If you are only going to shoot single row panos you can probably fabricate an adequate pano bracket yourself. DIY multirow brackets are harder to make.

Commercially made pano brackets are mostly designed to accommodate a wide variety of camera bodies and lenses. A DIY pano head can be camera and lens specfic which can simplify design and construction:
http://www.peterloud.co.uk/nodalsamurai/nodalsamurai.html
http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Nadir/Slim/Slim_rotator.html
And this is amusing:
http://www.vrmag.org/issue30/MICHEL_THOBY_S_MONSTER_GARAGE_PANOHEAD.html

You can shoot panos with any lens. The longer the focal length the smaller the FOV so you need more images to cover a scene., but the higher the resolution of the stitched pano.

Always use manual focus and manual exposure settings - typically the same settings for every shot in a pano. Never use a flash.

If you are using APP for stitching then APP users (via the the APP forum) and APP documentation, and lots of practice, are your best resources - that's how I learned anyway:
http://www.autopano.net/wiki/action/view/Main_Page

If you wish to display your panos on the Web then check out Pano2VR:
http://gardengnomesoftware.com/pano2vr.php
Last edited by mediavets on Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by GURL » Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:33 pm

Adam wrote:I'm open to any suggestions on this subject.

http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm For $75, ROI of Panosaurus cannot be beaten (I used one, fine results.)
Georges

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by mediavets » Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:38 pm

GURL wrote:
Adam wrote:I'm open to any suggestions on this subject.

http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm For $75, ROI of Panosaurus cannot be beaten (I used one, fine results.)

This is what Adam says he has:
Nikon D300 and D70s, Nikon 18-200, Tokina 116, Nikon 50 mm 1.8

Will the Panosaurus handle this?
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:13 pm

Hello,
What do you think of this rig. It costs about $500

http://www.peaceriverstudios.com/pixorb/index.html
interested in panorama photography

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by mediavets » Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:42 pm

Adam wrote:Hello,
What do you think of this rig. It costs about $500

http://www.peaceriverstudios.com/pixorb/index.html

It costs $11,500!
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Fri Nov 14, 2008 12:21 am

interested in panorama photography

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by John_Sauter » Fri Nov 14, 2008 1:42 pm


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by mediavets » Fri Nov 14, 2008 1:44 pm


Forget it - the design dates back to 1995 - it's nothing special and very costly.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:47 pm

Hey,
When I called, he said that they just updated design and a new 3sixty will be available soon. What's wrong with this design anyway?
interested in panorama photography

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by mediavets » Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:32 pm

Adam wrote:Hey,
When I called, he said that they just updated design and a new 3sixty will be available soon. What's wrong with this design anyway?

Nothing much I don't suppose, but why choose an obscure high-cost brand, which cannot currently even offer you a product, when you could be happy with a Nodal Ninja head?

But if you just want to be different - so be it.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:02 pm

You are right. I probably will buy nodal ninja. Which one?
Thinking of exchanging my Manfrotto 804RC2 head for Induro ball head M12 $150 difference.
interested in panorama photography

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by mediavets » Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:08 pm

Adam wrote:You are right. I probably will buy nodal ninja. Which one?
.

With your camera bodies and lenses I would suggest one of the NN5 series, take your pick of the old NN5L which is the least expensive (which I have) or any variant with one of the new range of rotators that offers the number of click stops you want/need.
Last edited by mediavets on Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:56 pm

So, I don't need a ball head? How about FEISOL rotator for $39 or $65?
interested in panorama photography

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by mediavets » Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:11 pm

Adam wrote:So, I don't need a ball head? How about FEISOL rotator for $39 or $65?

You have a leveling centre column so, no, you don't need a ball head as well as a pano head for shooting panos.

The only reason to have a ball head (under the pano head) would have been to make leveling the pano head easier - but you now have a leveling centre column to do that.

You may like to have a ball head for other types of photography but that's another matter.

A rotator alone is not sufficient for most types of pano shooting. It is not enough to rotate the camera body around its connection to the tripod you need to rotate the camera/lens (in one or two axes) around the entry pupil (more commonly referred to as the No Parallax Point, NPP) of the lens. And that's what a 'proper' pano head allows you to do.
Last edited by mediavets on Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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by Adam » Fri Nov 14, 2008 7:15 pm

Are saying that I don't need pano head like NN3? Why not?
I think there is more to pano shooting than I thought. Trying to read some stuff. Have a hard time finding good matierial to read.
interested in panorama photography

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