Home-built Pano Head  

In the panorama field, hardware is also part of the success. You can discuss here about it: camera, computer, pano head, anything
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DukeNukeIt
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Home-built Pano Head

by DukeNukeIt » Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:33 pm

Hello all,

Here are a couple of shots of my home-built pano head. I used Delrin for both it's strength, and ease of use with wood working tools. The base has an index plate that is set for 20 degree stops. I can later replace the plate with a different index system for more or less shots when I upgrade my camera/lenses. For now I'm using a Canon S3 IS camera, but I will be upgrading to a Canon Rebel Xsi 450D.

So far Autopano Pro has really done a great job helping me stitch together my panos. I need some more practice setting up shots, and shooting full HDR brackets for better tonemap results.

More to come :)

Dave









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beeloba
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by beeloba » Tue Oct 28, 2008 1:48 am

Very interesting…
Show more please :)

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klausesser
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by klausesser » Tue Oct 28, 2008 2:27 am

DukeNukeIt wrote:Hello all,

Here are a couple of shots of my home-built pano head. I used Delrin for both it's strength, and ease of use with wood working tools. The base has an index plate that is set for 20 degree stops. I can later replace the plate with a different index system for more or less shots when I upgrade my camera/lenses. For now I'm using a Canon S3 IS camera, but I will be upgrading to a Canon Rebel Xsi 450D.

So far Autopano Pro has really done a great job helping me stitch together my panos. I need some more practice setting up shots, and shooting full HDR brackets for better tonemap results.

More to come :)

Dave

Hi Dave!

Welcome here! And: well done, your head. But one thing: the axis for vertical movement is not in the npp - at least as i can read from the pictures ;)
But that´s easy to correct using a different camera-mount.

best and good luck, Klaus
Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. Coco Chanel

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by DukeNukeIt » Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:33 am

Hello Klaus, Wie geht es Ihnen?,

Yep, that was my original design about a month ago, I have updated it. Here are the newest pics showing my modifications that address the issue you mentioned.

I still have quite a bit of adjustment so if you see anything else that might be a problem, let me know and I'll see if I can fix it. I appreciate anyone's feedback for any improvements, my pano's will only be as good as my equipment will allow!

Thanks,
Dave











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AlexandreJ
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by AlexandreJ » Tue Oct 28, 2008 7:50 am

Really interesting. I wonder what weight it has. Because using polymer is definitively a good idea for that !

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by fma38 » Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:12 am

I agree. Very nice job!
Frédéric

Canon 20D + 17-40/f4 L USM + 70-200/f4 L USM + 50/f1.4 USM
Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Nokia N800 and HP TC-1100

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by hankkarl » Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:56 pm

Very nice job!

A couple of suggestions:

1. It would be nice to have is the ability to allow the camera to take a nadir shot from a position that's not directly over the tripod. If you rotate the middle piece 180 degrees on its long axis, the camera will be off to the side of the tripod, but still at the same height. You may need two nadir shots from each side of the nadir point. Also, you may need to shorten the lower horizontal arm.

[tr]2. A mounting plate is nice. I am trying the hexagonal Bogen quick release, with the architectural plate. The socket is surprisingly light, but it is deep (which may help if you do item 1 above.) I use a Manfrotto 303SPH, and took off the arm closest to the camera to use the quick release (since my camera has a tripod socket in-line with the center of the sensor and lens, its ok to do this.)[/tr]
Sorry, looks like you did use a mounting plate.
Last edited by hankkarl on Tue Oct 28, 2008 4:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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by DukeNukeIt » Wed Oct 29, 2008 12:50 am

Hello Hankcarl,

When I purchase my new Canon Xsi I'll have to look and see if I can shorten or modify any parts of the head. As for the Nadir shot, yep that's a problem... I'll think about it for a while :P Maybe I could have a side arm come out and hold the camera? Does anyone have a picture of their setup I could see? How would Autopano Pro handle a series of Nadir shots with the tripod legs showing? Gotta figure out how to do manual blending to hide the legs...

There is always more to learn :)
Last edited by DukeNukeIt on Wed Oct 29, 2008 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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by hankkarl » Wed Oct 29, 2008 4:03 am

Check this out http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/303SPH/303sph_review.html

As far as handling the tripod legs, you can use alpha channel to remove them, and they won't be part of the blended pano, or you can hope APP doesn't pick up CPs on them, (or go into the CP editor and remove them). I am guessing that if you have three nadir shots (center, tripod left and tripod right), smartblend will use a 2 out of 3 algorithm and remove the legs.

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by klausesser » Wed Oct 29, 2008 5:12 pm

DukeNukeIt wrote:Hello Klaus, Wie geht es Ihnen?,
Yep, that was my original design about a month ago, I have updated it. Here are the newest pics showing my modifications

Hi Dave! Danke, uns geht es ganz gut! Und wie geht es Dir? :) hope, you´re doing well also!

Great idea to use this material - i bet it dampens any kind of vibrations very well!?
Nice shot! Old horse-relay?

best, Klaus
Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. Coco Chanel

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by DukeNukeIt » Wed Oct 29, 2008 11:14 pm

Thanks guys,

The weight is almost 3lbs without the camera. I had to go a bit thicker with the plastic for stability, but no Klaus it does not do much for dampening vibrations. I have to set my camera on a 2 second timer because when I hit the shutter button there is a bit of movement :( When I get the new camera, I'll get a remote shutter for it, and hope that the mirror flipping up wont make the camera shake to much. If it's to bad, I'll have to make a thicker vertical plate to take out the vibrations.

Alas, it's not as easy as buying a complete pano-head, but for only $50.00 in material it's not to bad!

Dave

p.s. The picture is of an old sanitation station along a scenic park near my house.
Last edited by DukeNukeIt on Wed Oct 29, 2008 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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hankkarl
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by hankkarl » Thu Oct 30, 2008 6:09 pm

Snow skis have used sandwich construction for strength, stability and vibration damping for years. Perhaps bonding a couple of types of material together would help?

As far as vibration damping, perhaps this stuff http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_WW/electronics/home/productsandservices/products/TapesAdhesives/ViscoelasticDampingPolymers/ will help.

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by mediavets » Thu Oct 30, 2008 6:36 pm

DukeNukeIt wrote:Alas, it's not as easy as buying a complete pano-head, but for only $50.00 in material it's not to bad!

Dave

Just a little more work and you'll end up having recreated the Panosaursus pano head which costs less than $80.;)

http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm
Last edited by mediavets on Thu Oct 30, 2008 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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DukeNukeIt
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by DukeNukeIt » Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:23 pm

Good idea of the composite lamination :) I'll look into that one!

Interesting, the Panosauraus is very similar to my design, but there are a few problems that I can see for my purpose. They say quote <The Panosaurus does not have "Click Stops" to interfere with shooting preferences.> I actually love my 20 degree click stops because they allow a fast and easy way of keeping my panos perfectly aligned without any variance. Plus I can go back and re-shoot shots perfectly if I have to (as long as I don't move my tripod). Plus the unit wont hold a Canon DSLR camera with an extended battery grip, which I will be using. But it's a great buy!

Thanks for all the feedback, I appreciate it, keep it coming!

Dave

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by mediavets » Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:41 pm

DukeNukeIt wrote:Plus the unit wont hold a Canon DSLR camera with an extended battery grip, which I will be using. But it's a great buy!

Thanks for all the feedback, I appreciate it, keep it coming!

Dave

Why do you want to use an extended battery grip when shooting panos?
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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DukeNukeIt
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by DukeNukeIt » Fri Oct 31, 2008 4:50 am

My new Canon DSLR will be my main camera for all shooting, so the extended battery grip will be a perminant fixture. More power for extended use. Plus I might use the camera for time-lapse shots and I would need the extra power for longer running time. Here is a link to my Vimeo page that shows a time-lapse I did: http://www.vimeo.com/1327180

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hankkarl
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by hankkarl » Fri Oct 31, 2008 6:20 pm

The one time I remove the battery grip from my camera is when shooting panos on a panohead--the extra 2 inches means that much more deflection in the supports.


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