New to Panoramic imaging - which camera, lens, etc.  

In the panorama field, hardware is also part of the success. You can discuss here about it: camera, computer, pano head, anything
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TSJ
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New to Panoramic imaging - which camera, lens, etc.

by TSJ » Mon May 05, 2008 11:40 pm

Hi there I`m new to this forum and new to Panoramic imaging, and new to DSLR photography so I guess you could say I`m a complete novice :rolleyes: I need to get into doing virtual tours as part of my soon to be new job as a Domestic Energy Assessor, and it is going to be a necessity for me to provide tours for Estate Agents as part of my work. I may well want to try and supply virtual tours for other businesses as well.
It would be nice if you guys could point me in the right direction as to best camera, lens, tripod etc. that are reasonable in price AND easy to use :)

I have read a fair bit about this subject in the last few weeks and my head is spinning with all the new knowledge I am trying to take in so any easy to understand info etc. would be much appreciated. I have been in touch with one guy from this site (Mediavets) and he has been very helpful and it was he who suggested I post on here to see what you guys can come up with to help me.
I understand that it would be good to have a camera with AEB with as big an exposure difference as possible ?

What I am hoping to find is a system that is as easy as possible for me to use (bearing in mind my lack of experience). One of the lenses that Mediavets suggested was the Sigma 10-20mm. This would allow me to take decent wide angle single shots as well. Would that be a good choice and if so to which cameras can that be fitted ?
Heres hoping you guys can make my life relatively easy, and thanks in advance for your suggestions.

TSJ

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digipano
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by digipano » Tue May 06, 2008 2:47 am

What DSLR are you using Nikon or Canon?

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GURL
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by GURL » Tue May 06, 2008 9:09 am

The most widely used system for virtual tours is probably:
- a Nikon 10.5 mm fisheye
- any Nikon DSLR camera between D40 and D300
- a Nodal Ninja panohead
- a not too light Manfrotto/Bogen tripod.
There is no doubt such a system is a reasonable reference for cost and there is no doubt it works.

Besides that a very large number of combinations based on different brands for the lens, the camera, a panohead and a tripod are possible. They can bring appraised advantages in easiness and/or speed and/or image quality. Some are less expensive but work very well...

:) I shoot spherical panos, don't use a Nikon camera or lens.
Georges

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Ath
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by Ath » Tue May 06, 2008 5:57 pm

Id just like to point out the Sigma 12-24mm is much wider than the Sigma 10-20mm if you use a full frame camera (Canon 5D etc), as the 10-20mm is only for APS-C cameras, the 12-24mm also has a -lot- less distortion (it barely has any at all in fact @ 12mm see http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/Canon%20EOS%20Lens%20Tests/309-sigma-af-12-24mm-f45-56-hsm-ex-dg-test-report--review?start=1 )

Due to the huge field of view with lack of distortions, this may well be worth looking into, also because of its lack of distortions this lens is also used on APS-C sized cameras for 360 degree stuff.

A Canon EOS 5D and Sigma 12-24mm will set you back around $3k U.S + shipping from adorama.com (to any international destination), be sure to look up your local custom laws on import taxes, here we have around 10% on anything over $1000.

edit: the 12-24mm on a full frame camera is the widest rectilinear field of view you can get, period.

The 12-24mm is also very wide on APS-C.

The 10-20mm is obviously a little wider on APS-C, also rectilinear, but for APS-C only, but with distortions.

A wide rectilinear solution is also more versatile if youd like to use the setup for things other than virtual tours, such as landscapes, cityscapes and more "normal" stitches, etc.
Last edited by Ath on Tue May 06, 2008 6:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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TSJ
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by TSJ » Tue May 06, 2008 9:36 pm

digipano wrote:What DSLR are you using Nikon or Canon?

Hi there i do not have a DSLR yet. I didn`t want to dive-in and possibly get the wrong one as i`m a newbie to all of this. because my budget is small and considering I may have to get FE lens, tripod etc. I have been looking at the Canon 400D because I understand that all of the Canon cameras have AEB. Is this correct ?

Does anyone know if a wired remote is available for this camera and if so if I use it with the AEB activated do I need to press the shutter release for each of the exposures i.e. +1, 0, -1 etc. or would I just press the shutter once and the camera would automatically (in this instance) take the three shots ? :rolleyes:

cheers,

TSJ

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DrSlony
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by DrSlony » Wed May 07, 2008 12:42 am


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Ath
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by Ath » Wed May 07, 2008 2:44 am

Remote Switches and Wireless remotes for these cameras are cheap as, third party ones work perfectly fine, they can be found on ebay for around $20

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fma38
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by fma38 » Wed May 07, 2008 7:41 am

I think that the 400D has a normal jack connector (2.5mm), so it is very easy to make your own remote switch. BTW, the Merlin/Orion head comes with a cable for this camera (300-350-400-450 should all have the same connector).
Frédéric

Canon 20D + 17-40/f4 L USM + 70-200/f4 L USM + 50/f1.4 USM
Merlin/Orion panohead + Papywizard on Nokia N800 and HP TC-1100

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by mediavets » Wed May 07, 2008 9:07 am

Tom,
TSJ wrote:Does anyone know if a wired remote is available for this camera

Yes.
TSJ wrote:And if so if I use it with the AEB activated do I need to press the shutter release for each of the exposures i.e. +1, 0, -1 etc. or would I just press the shutter once and the camera would automatically (in this instance) take the three shots ? :rolleyes:
cheers,
TSJ

With AEB one shutter release press takes as many bracketed shots as the camera is set for, automatically.
Andrew Stephens
Many different Nodal Ninja and Agnos pano heads. Merlin/Panogear mount with Papywizard on Nokia Internet tablets.
Nikon D5100 and D40, Sigma 8mm f3.5 FE, Nikon 10.5mm FE, 35mm, 50mm, 18-55mm, 70-210mm. Promote control.

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Ath
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by Ath » Thu May 22, 2008 12:46 pm

Unfortunately, you can only set it for 3 bracketed exposures, but with -2/0/+2 its enough :)

My favourite way to bracket, is to find my exposure for the brightest part of the scene, so that nothing blows out in the first shot, and set it so that the -2 EV shot is first, so that essentially becomes my "0" shot, and I get +2 EV then +4 EV shots after.

(then there is manual bracketing for more difficult cases).
Last edited by Ath on Thu May 22, 2008 12:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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DrSlony
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by DrSlony » Thu May 22, 2008 5:47 pm

Ath I've been trying to do that on my Pentax k10d but it seems I cant. Did anyone manage to set a k10d to shoot 0 +2 +4?
Also, when using an infrared remote, I have to shoot once for each shot in the bracket. Did anyone manage to get a k10d to shoot all three (or five) shots after just once pressing the button on the infrared remote?

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tigme
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by tigme » Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:00 pm

Well if you really don't want to spend a lot of money just buy AutoPano Pro and use a normal camera. I made this 360:
http://www.beachhousehotel.co.za/index.php?dirname=html_docs_e360degrees

#1 *** Important Level the tripod all the way around, just excuse my horizon going up and down I did not level the tripod properly ---


#2 *** Very important to rotate around the center of your camera lense ***
I used an old Canon Powershot Pro1. Made myself a piece of board to mount the camera on a tripod and center it.

#3 *** Take about 12-16 (I prefer 16) photos from start to finish around the center ***
A tripod with degree markers works nice for this. I got one for less than $50US


ps. Also succeeded making 360 images making 3 rows of 16 photos using AutoPano . It also looks like will be possible the make full bubbles from 64 photos (5 rows x 16 photos tilting the camera from top to bottom) I can post it on the net if you want to see it...
Rudolph Thomas
TIGME.COM / GoVisit.net


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