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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:09 pm 
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Amazing robotic head! I'm still experimenting with the best way to transport it, mount my Really Right Stuff rails and clamps to it, and documenting the no parallax points of all my lenses on it. But here are a few photos and a video of it in action!

I'm using it on a Really Right Stuff TVC-34L tripod with a TA-3-LC-HK leveling base/clamp. It's a dream to level in very tiny degrees with one hand near the top of the Panoneed, another on the twist knob below the tripod, and keeping an eye on the electronic level of the controller--even when it's well overhead. I'm short enough to actually walk under the tripod when it's fully extended (68.25" or 173.4cm). There is very little vibration even with a 400mm lens on this tripod. I'm using it with a Promote Control. The rubber bands hold the Promote Control and also a little plastic shroud that I use over the power button when I transport it. I directly mounted a RRS MPR-192 rail to the motor shaft because the screws are placed 20mm apart but my RRS clamps are 30mm. I need to get a little adapter machined.

Here's a short video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfritLXHjFo&feature=youtu.be








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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:25 pm 
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aaronpriest wrote:
Amazing robotic head! I'm still experimenting with the best way to transport it, mount my Really Right Stuff rails and clamps to it, and documenting the no parallax points of all my lenses on it. But here are a few photos and a video of it in action!

I'm using it on a Really Right Stuff TVC-34L tripod with a TA-3-LC-HK leveling base/clamp. It's a dream to level in very tiny degrees with one hand near the top of the Panoneed, another on the twist knob below the tripod, and keeping an eye on the electronic level of the controller--even when it's well overhead. I'm short enough to actually walk under the tripod when it's fully extended (68.25" or 173.4cm). There is very little vibration even with a 400mm lens on this tripod. I'm using it with a Promote Control. The rubber bands hold the Promote Control and also a little plastic shroud that I use over the power button when I transport it. I directly mounted a RRS MPR-192 rail to the motor shaft because the screws are placed 20mm apart but my RRS clamps are 30mm. I need to get a little adapter machined.

Here's a short video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfritLXHjFo&feature=youtu.be

Hey Aaron!

Congratulations - and welcome to the club! :cool:

I think it´s a great device and a great combination with the PromoteControl! And also with MagicLantern btw.!
I like the straight-ahead design of both: the head and the controller - no gimmicks, just very, very clever features
like the sensor to avoid vibrations, the second-curtain synch., the electronic bubble (i like it though i don´t use it :D ),
the swift and intuitive handlig of the controller and the overall-reliability and strongness.

best, and - have fun, Klaus

P.S.: nice idea to mount the rail straight to the motor-shaft! Simple and effective = clever! :D

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Last edited by klausesser on Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:31 pm 
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Thanks Klaus! Yup, it's great! No better motorized head out there for the money that I've seen (when you include vibration sensor, 2nd curtain sync, electronic bubble, ease of calculating full spheres, etc.). I'm still trying to understand angle mode and a few things.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:43 pm 
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aaronpriest wrote:
Thanks Klaus! Yup, it's great! No better motorized head out there for the money that I've seen (when you include vibration sensor, 2nd curtain sync, electronic bubble, ease of calculating full spheres, etc.). I'm still trying to understand angle mode and a few things.

Let me give a clue to angle-mode:

I use a cardboard-frame -like the ancient painters did - to see a motive. Then i aim the camera to the center of what i see and set.let´s say: 90°y and 70°x.
When i start the camera it begins in the center and shoots pitch 45° and +45° resp. yaw -35° and +35° - So i comfortably can estimate what´s in the image when it´s finished.
The distance i hold the frame in front of my eyes determines the angle.

The same frame i use fore shooting a mosaic: the left up and the right down edges of the frame.

I have a viewfinder from my Linhof LF camera which i´m adapting as a viewfinder - i can set several focals which i combine with the size of the mask on it.

here´s a link to it - very helpful device for having "the full picture" when shooting landscapes. (fits on the flash-shoe).
http://media.team-foto.de/images/800/728546_0_1.jpg

best, Klaus

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Last edited by klausesser on Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:57 pm 
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It seems to always start it from level for me, and not from where I was pointed. But perhaps I was pointed down too far. I was attempting to shoot a couple rows close to nadir at a different focus than the rest of a sphere without shooting the whole sphere at a different focus distance. I had set 360° by 30° or so to attempt to get one or two rows. How do you handle high resolution spheres at the lower rows with closer objects?

That's a cool viewfinder!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:08 am 
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aaronpriest wrote:
How do you handle high resolution spheres at the lower rows with closer objects?

You can use the head in one-shot mode also. So you can focus each image or row seperately - but get the xml for the whole shooting.
For being faster you can shoot all rows but teh lower one(s) and stop here, adjust the focus for one row, start again and focus for rteh next row or so.

Sometime i release every image seperately, sometimes i change the focus while it´s running and sometimes i change the focus by stopping each row and start again (as described).

After a little training it works very well.

best, Klaus

besides: can you give me a link to this rail? Looks good!

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Last edited by klausesser on Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:14 am 
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tip: instead of rubber band - which can get brittle in cold conditions - I use a velcro placed on the battery cover on backside of the promote (leaving fre the area of the screw).

Georg



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:24 am 
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klausesser wrote:
aaronpriest wrote:
How do you handle high resolution spheres at the lower rows with closer objects?

You can use the head in one-shot mode also. So you can focus each image or row seperately - but get the xml for the whole shooting.
For being faster you can shoot all rows but teh lower one(s) and stop here, adjust the focus for one row, start again and focus for rteh next row or so.

Sometime i release every image seperately, sometimes i change the focus while it´s running and sometimes i change the focus by stopping each row and start again (as described).

After a little training it works very well.

best, Klaus

besides: can you give me a link to this rail? Looks good!

i think it s a reallyrightstuff rail
http://reallyrightstuff.com/Items.aspx?code=PanoComponents&key=cat

Georg

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:32 am 
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gkaefer wrote:
tip: instead of rubber band - which can get brittle in cold conditions - I use a velcro placed on the battery cover on backside of the promote (leaving fre the area of the screw).

Georg, yes, me too! The sticky tape that once held the velcro on my Promote Control over the years has recently lost it's hold though. So until I get to a craft store to replace it, the rubber bands are a temporary fix. :D


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:42 am 
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klausesser wrote:
besides: can you give me a link to this rail? Looks good!

Yes, it is a Really Right Stuff MPR-192 arca swiss rail. I needed the extra length of the 192mm rail over the ones provided with the Panoneed. I could not easily adapt the trapezoid type mount with arca swiss rails though, it doesn't clamp them well enough. So I removed the original clamp and directly mounted this rail to the motor shaft. Use great care if you do this as Josef used Loctite on those four bolts. I had the the whole rig clamped down before I started removing bolts because I didn't want to over-torque the motor or shaft and get it out of alignment. I want to mount a Really Right Stuff clamp so the bar is removable for storage but the shaft has holes spaced 20mm apart and the RRS clamps are spaced 30mm. The MPR-192 rail has a thin slit in the middle where I could mount it directly though with the right bolts. Eventually I'll get a small 1cm thick "adapter" machined where I can mount it to the motor shaft with flush mounted screws spaced 20mm apart and have perpendicular sockets spaced 30mm apart for the RRS clamp.

This is the clamp I'd like to mount to the shaft: http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=B2-LR-II&type=0&eq=&desc=B2-LR-II%3a-60mm-LR-clamp-with-dual-mount


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:48 am 
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klausesser wrote:
For being faster you can shoot all rows but teh lower one(s) and stop here, adjust the focus for one row, start again and focus for rteh next row or so.

I've tried doing this, for whatever reason I'm having a difficult time with the touch controller screen. The right side seems the most troublesome. By the time I can get it to accept a pause command it has taken 4 or 5 photos of a row. Sometimes when positioning the head it will think I pushed up when I pushed down and vice versus, or when advancing to the next screen it will think I turned on fast mode, etc. I have very skinny fingers so that surprises me. I was hoping it had improved some over the previous T&C controller I have for the Kolor Panogear. I'm still experimenting with alternative methods. The best so far is a soft pencil eraser.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:08 am 
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Showing off the Panoneed to my Dad in the back yard this afternoon. He wanted to record a video of it to send to Grandpa (also a photographer, runs in the family I guess!). I left the tripod in the photo to show how small the nadir hole really is to patch in Photoshop. The snow has nearly all melted in northern Maine in the fields (not in the woods), but the ice in the pond hasn't gone out yet. No green grass yet obviously... :-)

http://www.aaronpriestphoto.com/pano/2013-03-31_Back_Yard/


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:18 am 
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aaronpriest wrote:
Showing off the Panoneed to my Dad in the back yard this afternoon. He wanted to record a video of it to send to Grandpa (also a photographer, runs in the family I guess!). I left the tripod in the photo to show how small the nadir hole really is to patch in Photoshop. The snow has nearly all melted in northern Maine in the fields (not in the woods), but the ice in the pond hasn't gone out yet. No green grass yet obviously... :-)

http://www.aaronpriestphoto.com/pano/2013-03-31_Back_Yard/

I like it... and here in Austria we got def. more new snow :D
Q: depening on the ground material... is it possible to lower spread the tripod legs to get an even smaller area you've to postprocess?
(My Merlin base is so huge that I can hide my tripod legs perfectly without running into danger the tripod could fall....)

Georg

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Last edited by gkaefer on Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:22 am 
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PS you could add it to the "collection"
http://www.kolor.com/forum/t16868-nadir-collection
Georg

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:55 am 
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aaronpriest wrote:
I left the tripod in the photo to show how small the nadir hole really is to patch in Photoshop.
http://www.aaronpriestphoto.com/pano/2013-03-31_Back_Yard/

Now - isn´t THAT a small Nadir?? :cool::cool:

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 12:01 pm 
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gkaefer wrote:
is it possible to lower spread the tripod legs to get an even smaller area you've to postprocess?

Sometimes i fix an extra weight to the lower end of the center-column of my (anyway rather heavy) tripod when i narrow the legs. This brings stability, dampens vibrations
and makes it standing more stable though the legs are narrowed as much as possible.

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:51 pm 
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I bought a tripod without a center column and a 75mm video bowl for leveling (Really Right Stuff TVC-34L), so the legs do stick out quite far with such a wide base. I also raise it quite high so that I can keep the ground in focus at the right focal length and aperture (depth of field and hyperfocal distance) without needing focus stacking. All of this results in the legs sticking out further into the photo. However, it's very easy to move the tripod a little, shoot where it was, and blend it in with PTGui Pro's viewpoint correction. It helps remove the shadow of the tripod at the same time. I also hang a weight from it to give it more mass since it's a light carbon fiber tripod; it only seems to matter in heavy wind, there is next to no vibration on it normally. You can see the tripod and leveler in the first photo above. http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=TVC-34L&type=4&eq=&desc=TVC-34L-Versa-Series-3-Tripod&key=it


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 2:04 pm 
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aaronpriest wrote:
I bought a tripod without a center column and a 75mm video bowl for leveling (Really Right Stuff TVC-34L), so the legs do stick out quite far with such a wide base. I also raise it quite high so that I can keep the ground in focus at the right focal length and aperture (depth of field and hyperfocal distance) without needing focus stacking. All of this results in the legs sticking out further into the photo. However, it's very easy to move the tripod a little, shoot where it was, and blend it in with PTGui Pro's viewpoint correction. It helps remove the shadow of the tripod at the same time. I also hang a weight from it to give it more mass since it's a light carbon fiber tripod; it only seems to matter in heavy wind, there is next to no vibration on it normally. You can see the tripod and leveler in the first photo above. http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=TVC-34L&type=4&eq=&desc=TVC-34L-Versa-Series-3-Tripod&key=it

Hi Aaron!

The advantage of using a center-column is to lift the camera/head some way above the tripod´s base and legs. This way you minimize seeing the tripod.
20-30cm will have some effect - more of course has a bigger effect :cool:

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 2:19 pm 
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Yes, but I wanted one REALLY good tripod that could go nearly 6 feet high and yet still get me 4 inches off the ground for some of the other things I shoot, and I was sick of a center column getting in the way. I can add a center column to this later if have a need (say in a very confined small room), but skipped it for now. Here's the part: http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=TA-3-QC&type=4&eq=&desc=TA-3-QC%3a-Versa-3-Quick-Column


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 2:32 pm 
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aaronpriest wrote:
Yes, but I wanted one REALLY good tripod that could go nearly 6 feet high and yet still get me 4 inches off the ground for some of the other things I shoot, and I was sick of a center column getting in the way. I can add a center column to this later if have a need (say in a very confined small room), but skipped it for now. Here's the part: http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=TA-3-QC&type=4&eq=&desc=TA-3-QC%3a-Versa-3-Quick-Column

Yes - i know the tripod. Good device, very Gitzo-like. But i prefer heavy ones :cool: - don´t need to carry them around myself, thanks heaven :D
I reduced the baggage to the Gitzo and a Peli-Case which carries the head, camera, some lenses, field-monitor, controller, cables and so on.
It´s safe, waterproof and air-tight.

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:01 pm 
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Yeah, I have a Pelican case for some of the electronics for my computer company. I was thinking of getting one for the Panoneed to transport it (not for hiking of course, just safe storage). They are the best around!


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 5:57 am 
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So, to post an update about the Panoneed. I've been working with Josef and a friend at Promote Control to be able to take timelapse panoramas. Here's my first attempt at night:
http://www.aaronpriestphoto.com/2013/05/full-sky-star-trails/


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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 10:56 am 
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aaronpriest wrote:
So, to post an update about the Panoneed. I've been working with Josef and a friend at Promote Control to be able to take timelapse panoramas. Here's my first attempt at night:
http://www.aaronpriestphoto.com/2013/05/full-sky-star-trails/

Hey Aaron!

I like it!! So many little comets circling around . . ;):cool:

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 6:29 am 
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Pushing the envelope a bit further, here is an HDR spherical timelapse video I took with the Panoneed, two Promote Controls, and second curtain sync all at the same time! Next, to get bulb ramping in the mix...

http://www.aaronpriestphoto.com/2013/07/360-timelapse-mowing-the-lawn/


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 11:56 am 
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aaronpriest wrote:
Pushing the envelope a bit further, here is an HDR spherical timelapse video I took with the Panoneed, two Promote Controls, and second curtain sync all at the same time! Next, to get bulb ramping in the mix...

http://www.aaronpriestphoto.com/2013/07/360-timelapse-mowing-the-lawn/

Hey Aaron!

Very well done! Nice effect with the planet seeing you circle around the camera on the planet´s surface . . . :D:cool:

best, Klaus

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