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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:26 pm 
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If you want a decent leveler, get the best - the Arca Swiss Cube.

Expensive, but once you have one, you'll never know how you coped without it.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:27 pm 
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gddxb wrote:
If you want a decent leveler, get the best - the Arca Swiss Cube.

Expensive, but once you have one, you'll never know how you coped without it.

;) yeah - i have one. Great device. But i never use it for pano-shooting :cool:

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:51 pm 
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When I first saw the Cube a year or two back, I really wanted one.. but.. wow.. $$$
Love to play with one. Great engineering..

Destiny..

gddxb wrote:
If you want a decent leveler, get the best - the Arca Swiss Cube.

Expensive, but once you have one, you'll never know how you coped without it.

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Primary School Teacher - Hobby Virtual Tours and 3D/360 Object/Product Photographer - Our aim is to create a 3D/360 Virtual Tour Shop/Store with links to 3D/360 degree products. My gear, VR Drive II - D90 - Nikon 10.5 fisheye - Nikon D800 with Nikon-Nikkor 14-24 - NOVOFLEX Magic Balance - Acratech GP Ball-head - Nodal Ninja 4 + RD-16 Rotor - Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod :) :)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:44 pm 
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klausesser wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
That is problably because I would still use my manuall head for focal lenghs untill 24 mm and above that would not care about the nadir.

That´s basically a good idea. But 1) it doesn´t provide XMLs and 2) what about needing to lift the camera up to, let´s say: 3m?
How would you move it from the ground?

I experienced situations where i definitely needed XML even when i used a fisheye - a room of 90% white, a very narrow space like a bathroom with white walls very close,
clear blues sky in the open when i stood on a tower and didn´t have any item in the Zenith-shot what could be used for finding control-points (ok: if it´s just the nadir shot you can move it manually).
I did a shoot in a galery - standing very close to a very long and rather high wall of only black and using a 20mm lens. Without XML it would have needed very much more time to stitch the 24 shots.

I very often lift the camera up to 2,50/3m - i can do it using my Gitzo alone - and it helps a lot in many situations. Definitely wouldn´t be able to move the camera then without carrying a ladder around . . . . :cool: i can control everything from the ground using a 3m cable on the controller while watching the camera´s live-view on a field-monitor attached to one tripod-leg)

So: IF you have a motorized head at all - you will prefer to use it all the time i bet.

But of coure there are other occasions where it´s definitely cleverer to use a lightweight manual head with fisheye or 20mm (on FX).

best, Klaus

Thank you Klaus for showing situations where an automatic panohead is helpfull.
The photographers I work with and I don't find ourself in these situations very often but that is problably just us and our approach of business.
When I do longer focal lengths I do find detection is hard but with the import wizards, without using XML, things go well first try mostly, else there is nothing some editing of x,y,z parameters can't solve, just as long as the shot was done totally level.

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I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:48 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
. . just as long as the shot was done totally level.

At least as long as your leveller doesn´t move on it´s own . . ;):cool:

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 3:06 pm 
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klausesser wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
. . just as long as the shot was done totally level.

At least as long as your leveller doesn´t move on it´s own . . ;):cool:

best, Klaus

Nope as I use a simple one* ;-)
Larger tripods have nifty ways for leveling, I love that, but they are a bit heavy to carry around if you shoot ten panoramas in a row..

*http://www.fotokonijnenberg.nl/product/1467648/nodal-ninja-ez-leveler-ii-incl-doos-2nd.html

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I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 3:19 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
klausesser wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
. . just as long as the shot was done totally level.

At least as long as your leveller doesn´t move on it´s own . . ;):cool:

best, Klaus

Nope as I use a simple one* ;-)
Larger tripods have nifty ways for leveling, I love that, but they are a bit heavy to carry around if you shoot ten panoramas in a row..

*http://www.fotokonijnenberg.nl/product/1467648/nodal-ninja-ez-leveler-ii-incl-doos-2nd.html

looks like a small version of the Manfrotto:
http://www.rakuten.de/produkt/manfrotto-338-levelling-base-stativkopf-828456476.html?gclid=CKSUw8uSp7YCFUdY3godNigAdw&portaldv=1&sclid=a_rakneu_pla_nocat&cid=google_base_pla&utm_source=gpla&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=googlebase-pla-2012-02_nocat

For my manual head i use this one - very quick adjustable:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554093-REG/Manfrotto_438_438_Compact_Levelling_Head.html

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 3:30 pm 
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yes same idea as the Manfrotto. It is important however to always rotate clockwise. this locks the centerscrews. Anticlockwise rotation can unscrew this device. But that is something that is rather in general with tripodscrews.

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 3:47 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
yes same idea as the Manfrotto. It is important however to always rotate clockwise. this locks the centerscrews. Anticlockwise rotation can unscrew this device. But that is something that is rather in general with tripodscrews.

The Manfrotto ball-leveller-plate has 3 srews which lock the head to the leveller-plate. The plate on the column on my Manfrotto 055 also has 3 screws which locks te levellers´s base to it. This way both can´t unscrew itself unless you loose the fixing srews. Clever!

The base-plate of the Panoneed has a feature to lock it to the plate where you screw it to. No way it could loose itself. Motorized heads usually spin zig-zag.
Due to the locking-option it can´t loose on the Gitzo-plate also.

best, Klaus

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Last edited by klausesser on Sun Mar 31, 2013 3:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 10:53 am 
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Location: Australia
GOOD NEWS!!

My issue with my NOVOFLEX MagicBalance has been resolved.. :) I had Martin Grahl from NOVOFLEX provide me with some test to perform.. This led to discovering my issue.. There is a mechanism inside the MagicBalance which is forced down when tightened.. The problems is.. if the tripod screw stud protrudes too high, it will bottom onto this screw stud restricting the mechanism from being pulled down enough to fully tighten it.. I had a paper washer on it which allowed the screw stud to stick up just a fraction too high.. When I put a cork washer on, which is about 1mm think, it was just enough to allow the mechanism to be pulled fully down thereby allowing it to tighten fully.. I really need to put two cork washers on to make sure the screw stud is not making contact with the internal mechanism.. I do not know where to buy them from since a guy from Nodal Ninja made it up for me..

Now I am back to being very happy with my NOVOFLEX MagicBalance. Its a beautiful finished little thing, and I am sooo glad it now works as it was designed to. I think I can be forgiven for making this error since I did not realise how the mechanism worked.. I would love to own more of the NOVOFLEX gear when I can afford to buy it..

Destiny...

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Primary School Teacher - Hobby Virtual Tours and 3D/360 Object/Product Photographer - Our aim is to create a 3D/360 Virtual Tour Shop/Store with links to 3D/360 degree products. My gear, VR Drive II - D90 - Nikon 10.5 fisheye - Nikon D800 with Nikon-Nikkor 14-24 - NOVOFLEX Magic Balance - Acratech GP Ball-head - Nodal Ninja 4 + RD-16 Rotor - Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod :) :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:51 am 
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Location: Isleham, Cambridgeshire, UK.
Destiny wrote:
I really need to put two cork washers on to make sure the screw stud is not making contact with the internal mechanism.. I do not know where to buy them from since a guy from Nodal Ninja made it up for me..

Destiny...

Make your own?:

http://www.croftcreative.com.au/page2.php?view=productListPage&category=3

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


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