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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:26 am 
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Hi...

When I first saw the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance on YouTube being used by someone demonstrating the VR Drive II, I was sure this was for me so I bought it.. It was expensive but when I tried it out I loved it. It sets the level bubble very quickly without issues. However, I have just discovered that it doesn't remain tight enough to stop very slowly tilting over due to the arm of the VR Drive II with the camera and lens weight while on the upright rail since it is off centre and since the weight is mostly over to one side it slowly moves down and if left long enough, it will drop down significantly..

I was talking to Bill Bailey CEO of Nodal Ninja advising him that when I put my D800 with 14-25 on my NN4, by the time I had captured the entire 360 the bubble was out. I thought it was flex in the upright rail but its not.. its the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance rolling over. It simply does not tighten up enough.. If you hold onto the R16 tightly, and try to move it, its quite firm.. but its the leverage of the length of the upper rail which makes it easy to move.. I found it was very easy to rotate the R16, and accidentally move the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance from its set level position and even more so when the weight my D800 with 14-24 is attached to my NN4.

I would ask that anyone with a NOVOFLEX MagicBalance to check it out. Tighten it and and see how easily it can move.. I am sure my NOVOFLEX MagicBalance is not a faulty one but rather a design flaw but I might be wrong, but rather its a fact I have a faulty MagicBalance..

Destiny....

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Primary School Teacher - Hobby Virtual Tours and 3D/360 Object/Product Photographer - Our aim is to create a 3D/360 Virtual Tour Shop/Store with links to 3D/360 degree products. My gear, VR Drive II - D90 - Nikon 10.5 fisheye - Nikon D800 with Nikon-Nikkor 14-24 - NOVOFLEX Magic Balance - Acratech GP Ball-head - Nodal Ninja 4 + RD-16 Rotor - Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod :) :)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 12:41 pm 
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I use "Acratech Quick Release Leveling Base" for my VRdrive. Rock solid :)
http://acratech.net/product.php?productid=56&cat=2&page=1

leifs

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 1:57 pm 
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Destiny wrote:
Hi...

When I first saw the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance on YouTube being used by someone demonstrating the VR Drive II, I was sure this was for me so I bought it.. It was expensive but when I tried it out I loved it. It sets the level bubble very quickly without issues. However, I have just discovered that it doesn't remain tight enough to stop very slowly tilting over due to the arm of the VR Drive II with the camera and lens weight while on the upright rail since it is off centre and since the weight is mostly over to one side it slowly moves down and if left long enough, it will drop down significantly..

I was talking to Bill Bailey CEO of Nodal Ninja advising him that when I put my D800 with 14-25 on my NN4, by the time I had captured the entire 360 the bubble was out. I thought it was flex in the upright rail but its not.. its the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance rolling over. It simply does not tighten up enough.. If you hold onto the R16 tightly, and try to move it, its quite firm.. but its the leverage of the length of the upper rail which makes it easy to move.. I found it was very easy to rotate the R16, and accidentally move the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance from its set level position and even more so when the weight my D800 with 14-24 is attached to my NN4.

I would ask that anyone with a NOVOFLEX MagicBalance to check it out. Tighten it and and see how easily it can move.. I am sure my NOVOFLEX MagicBalance is not a faulty one but rather a design flaw but I might be wrong, but rather its a fact I have a faulty MagicBalance..

Destiny....

Hi Destiny!

I have two leveling gadgets. I don´t use any of them. Why?

A motorized head isn´t really a lightweight. When you have the head/camera/lens assembly slanted by setting the tripod-axis slanted than you most likely have around 6-10Kg which "pulls" on the leveling-plate when you use the tripod slanted.

Using APG or PTG there is NO NEED AT ALL to use a leveller. You can level it perfectly in the editor using the vertical lines tool (APG) resp. the CP-Editor (PTGui).

I often use the head slanted @ about 45°. That´s hard stuff for any leveller-plate - be it Manfrotto, Novoflex, Arca or whatever.

Additionally you avoid a device which potentially can produce vibrations.

My conclusion: i use a very heavy tripod (Gitzo No.V steel) and put the head straight on the center-column - without anything in between. Then i use the editors in APG or in PTGui and get
a perfectly levelled horizon.

That´s one of the advantages shooting spherical :cool:

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 2:18 pm 
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Yes leifs, Acratech stuff is rock solid and well made, I have the GP Ballhead. I have tried to take off the release plate so I can screw it to my NN4.. I need a screw stud..

Klaus, perhaps so, but what I am saying is that is moves during capture.. Its not remaining at the same level from beginning to end so as a consequence it does effect the stitching... This is not just when using my VR Drive, its was while using my NN4... I set it to capture a single 90 degree 360 pano, but the top of the last image is down from the top of the first image, like a spiral I guess...

Destiny...

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 28, 2013 3:50 pm 
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Destiny wrote:
Klaus, perhaps so, but what I am saying is that is moves during capture.. Its not remaining at the same level from beginning to end so as a consequence it does effect the stitching...

I understood very well - my advise nevertheless: don´t use it´because you don´t really need it. Believe me, it´s a fact. ;):cool:

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:24 am 
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I am now confused.. I was always led to believe that levelling the bubble was important.. I guess you are right, if I don't use it then there is nothing that can move. Not much point in buying the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance in the first place.. :(

Destiny..

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:59 am 
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Destiny wrote:
I guess you are right, if I don't use it then there is nothing that can move.

Right - that´s exactly the point. Without anything between the head and the center-column of you tripod you have the best interconnection of both masses.

The geometrical correction in the editor works extremely well - no matter whether the head was levelled or not at all while shooting.

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:49 am 
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Point taken..; but back to the issue of this thread, the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance: Its a matter of fact for me that it was a waste of money to buy it since its NOT up to the task of holding a NN4 firmly with Camera and Lens as well as a VR Drive with Camera and Lens attached as I saw in the YouTube video.. I have now bought a 3/8 stud and managed to take the release plate off from my Acratech GP Ballhead and tested that out.. Its rock solid.. It does not move at all even when weight is put onto it.. I think now that I should have saved my money and not bought the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance and just improvised by using my Acratech GP Ballhead. I have had it for years, log before my NN4 but never really used it much. Its a beautifully made tool and more importunely, it is designed to work well.. I had it in mind to use it with my VR Drive to capture the Nadir but was not sure how to attach it..

One more point, since the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance moves, it might not be an issue when capturing a single shot sphere but what about a 9 shot bracketed shot.. It would matter then but there again, if it was not attached in the first place then it falls back to the point you made that I don't need it at all... Shame, it looks well made but its not a practical tool that can be used.. I guess its more of a very light weight tool which was never designed for my need even though I saw it being recommend on the YouTUbe video being used with the VR Drive II...

Destiny..

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:14 am 
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Destiny wrote:
Point taken..; but back to the issue of this thread, the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance: Its a matter of fact for me that it was a waste of money to buy it since its NOT up to the task of holding a NN4 firmly with Camera and Lens as well as a VR Drive with Camera and Lens attached as I saw in the YouTube video.. I have now bought a 3/8 stud and managed to take the release plate off from my Acratech GP Ballhead and tested that out.. Its rock solid.. It does not move at all even when weight is put onto it.. I think now that I should have saved my money and not bought the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance and just improvised by using my Acratech GP Ballhead. I have had it for years, log before my NN4 but never really used it much. Its a beautifully made tool and more importunely, it is designed to work well.. I had it in mind to use it with my VR Drive to capture the Nadir but was not sure how to attach it..

One more point, since the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance moves, it might not be an issue when capturing a single shot sphere but what about a 9 shot bracketed shot.. It would matter then but there again, if it was not attached in the first place then it falls back to the point you made that I don't need it at all... Shame, it looks well made but its not a practical tool that can be used.. I guess its more of a very light weight tool which was never designed for my need even though I saw it being recommend on the YouTUbe video being used with the VR Drive II...

Destiny..

I don´t know the Novoflex well - isn´t there a srew to pre-adjust the pressure which is deployed by tightening the main-lever?

I had that on a Manfrotto quick-leveller: when i tightened the lever it moved a bit from the found position. Then i discovered a srew with which i pre-adjusted the tightening so that using the main-lever only did the final fixing - which needed then only a little move of the lever.

Maybe such a screw is on the Novoflex also and just needs to be pre-set a bit stronger before you use the main-lever to fix it finallly - and this way get a better, stronger fixing?

(hope i could make clear what i mean)

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 5:15 am 
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Yes, I understand what you mean, it makes sence.. It has a locking arm which is spring loaded so I can pull it out and change the position.. It does not matter where I position it, it will not lock tight enough to hold a VR Drive or NN4 with Camera and Lens attached... You only need to pull the upper arm a little before it moves out of level setting.. There is not enough resistance to hold it in place using the locking arm.. The finish quality of the NOVOFLEX gear is exceptional, perfectly fished.. I guess I should have bought a heavier device but I was misled by the YouTube video in assuming it was made for the task I needed it for.. But its clearly not..

I guess if I had known about the Acratech Quick Release Leveling Base leifs uses, I would have bought that since the Acratech gear is very nicely made, very strong and works very well...

Destiny..



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Primary School Teacher - Hobby Virtual Tours and 3D/360 Object/Product Photographer - Our aim is to create a 3D/360 Virtual Tour Shop/Store with links to 3D/360 degree products. My gear, VR Drive II - D90 - Nikon 10.5 fisheye - Nikon D800 with Nikon-Nikkor 14-24 - NOVOFLEX Magic Balance - Acratech GP Ball-head - Nodal Ninja 4 + RD-16 Rotor - Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod :) :)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 5:57 am 
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This is my NN4 with Acratech GP Ballhead mounted.. It levels quicky and holds very firmly in position.. I really need some cork shims but I cannot find anywhere to buy them.. I had one but it broke.. :( I am just using paper between the tripod and Ballhead.. You cannot put metal to metal..

Just a point about my NN4.. You can see that the quality of the finish is as good as the day I received it about two years ago.. I do look after it but even so, it just goes to show the high quality of the coating is resistant to long term use. The screw knobs are still silky smooth and still work very well. Some plastics tend to deteriorate after time but there is no sign of it on my NN4..

As I said, I had it in mind to try to attached my Acratech GP Ballhead to my NN4 for a long time but was unsure how since I could not find a short screw stud but my dad had a bold cut down for me. Now I can set my camera to portrait and landscape using my NN4 with R16 very quickly..

Over the years I have become a bit of a design thinker.. If I was to design the NN4, it would be a lot different.. The top of the R16 would have a dovetail plate and the rails would have dovetail groves.. This would be so the rail could be slid off from the portrait position and slid into the upright rail so the camera was in the landscape position. I do not believe using my NN4 just for VRs.. it makes a great extension to my tripod for small and large panos as well as single shot photos in portrait and landscape.. and also when set to landscape I can use it to capture video too.. :D

Destiny..



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Primary School Teacher - Hobby Virtual Tours and 3D/360 Object/Product Photographer - Our aim is to create a 3D/360 Virtual Tour Shop/Store with links to 3D/360 degree products. My gear, VR Drive II - D90 - Nikon 10.5 fisheye - Nikon D800 with Nikon-Nikkor 14-24 - NOVOFLEX Magic Balance - Acratech GP Ball-head - Nodal Ninja 4 + RD-16 Rotor - Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod :) :)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:37 am 
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... set to landscape.. :D

I can pan/rotate the camera from the NN4 upper rail with increments or just swing it using the Acratech GP Ballhead.

Destiny..



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:52 am 
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.. this is the YouTube video I saw with the VR Drive mounted on the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvb6igCVdWI

Looks firm and stable but its not, well, mine is not.... :(

Destiny..

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:29 pm 
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Destiny wrote:
Yes, I understand what you mean, it makes sence.. It has a locking arm which is spring loaded so I can pull it out and change the position.. It does not matter where I position it, it will not lock tight enough to hold a VR Drive or NN4 with Camera and Lens attached... You only need to pull the upper arm a little before it moves out of level setting.. There is not enough resistance to hold it in place using the locking arm.. The finish quality of the NOVOFLEX gear is exceptional, perfectly fished.. I guess I should have bought a heavier device but I was misled by the YouTube video in assuming it was made for the task I needed it for.. But its clearly not..

I guess if I had known about the Acratech Quick Release Leveling Base leifs uses, I would have bought that since the Acratech gear is very nicely made, very strong and works very well...

Destiny..

If you desperately want ;) a REAL sturdy levelling plate: http://www.manfrotto.com/levelling-base

It´s big, it´s a bit heavy - and it takes heavy loads easily and it comes for a reasonable price.

But - as said: preferably leave away any leveller.

best, Klaus

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Last edited by klausesser on Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:32 pm 
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Destiny wrote:
... set to landscape.. :D

I can pan/rotate the camera from the NN4 upper rail with increments or just swing it using the Acratech GP Ballhead.

Destiny..

Did you do it with the Seitz also?

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:49 pm 
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Not yet.. You suggested a while back using a ballhead to capture a nadir but I have only just gotten a screw stud to attach the VR Drive.. I will be careful and watch the weight... I will rase the centre column to set the lens to same hight.. It all looks a bit unstable but I think its ok.. Too busy processing my Thailand images for the Pano book now..

Destiny..

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Primary School Teacher - Hobby Virtual Tours and 3D/360 Object/Product Photographer - Our aim is to create a 3D/360 Virtual Tour Shop/Store with links to 3D/360 degree products. My gear, VR Drive II - D90 - Nikon 10.5 fisheye - Nikon D800 with Nikon-Nikkor 14-24 - NOVOFLEX Magic Balance - Acratech GP Ball-head - Nodal Ninja 4 + RD-16 Rotor - Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod :) :)


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 2:00 pm 
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Destiny wrote:
You suggested a while back using a ballhead to capture a nadir

Yes. But i don´t suggst it any ore since i use -12° with fisheye and even steeper with other lenses.
Depends maily on the size of thze head´s base. Josef managed to have the Panoneed rotating extremely close to the vertical axis -
so it produces an extremely steep downlook-angle which means an extremely small Nadir. (Image attached).

best, Klaus



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:08 am 
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Hi..

I have ordered a Titanium 3/8 stud to mount my VR Drive onto my Acratech GP Ballhead. I do not trust the 3/8 bolt we had cut down.. I have tested my NN4 and its works really well. I do not have to over tighten the screw, it locks rock solid very well.. I wish I did it before rather than buying the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance. There is nothing wrong with the quality of their gear, its really nice. Now I am finding out about other ball levelling options. This one is fairly cheap but not sure if its any good.. I have never seen it before.. I will now stick with my Acratech GP Ballhead... I love their gear.. Very strong and beautifully made..

Destiny..



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Primary School Teacher - Hobby Virtual Tours and 3D/360 Object/Product Photographer - Our aim is to create a 3D/360 Virtual Tour Shop/Store with links to 3D/360 degree products. My gear, VR Drive II - D90 - Nikon 10.5 fisheye - Nikon D800 with Nikon-Nikkor 14-24 - NOVOFLEX Magic Balance - Acratech GP Ball-head - Nodal Ninja 4 + RD-16 Rotor - Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod :) :)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:11 am 
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Destiny wrote:
Hi..

I have ordered a Titanium 3/8 stud to mount my VR Drive onto my Acratech GP Ballhead. I do not trust the 3/8 bolt we had cut down.. I have tested my NN4 and its works really well. I do not have to over tighten the screw, it locks rock solid very well.. I wish I did it before rather than buying the NOVOFLEX MagicBalance. There is nothing wrong with the quality of their gear, its really nice. Now I am finding out about other ball levelling options. This one is fairly cheap but not sure if its any good.. I have never seen it before.. I will now stick with my Acratech GP Ballhead... I love their gear.. Very strong and beautifully made..

Destiny..

For the VR-drive I can understand you want to use a ballhead because of the nadirshot. For a manual head like the NN4 I would keep it simple and go for a simple leveler like the fanotec leveler*
It is true APG can correct the leveling but I prefer to have things level already before APG needs to do its magic, just my way of doing things.

Nadir shots can be made by using the nodal ninja nadir adapter**

*http://www.fotokonijnenberg.nl/product/1467648/nodal-ninja-ez-leveler-ii-incl-doos-2nd.html
**http://www.fotokonijnenberg.nl/search.html?searchfield=nadir

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Yes, I too prefer to have my head level but I do not like the Fanotec leveller, I much prefer the ball types. It just seems to me to be the right way of doing things, after all.. most of the pano tools from the hand held tools like the NN4 to the motorised types like the VR Drive II all have leveller bubbles.. Therefore, I am sure its important to set it level first... I also have the Nadir Adaptor for my NN4 so I wouldn't bother using the bullhead to capture the nadir as you can see attached in the image above. But I would try to use my ballhead with my VR Drive II. Its true you can use a clone tool in Photoshop but as far as I am concerned, that is a rather amateurish way of doing things. Its fine for grass outside or for a none pattern carpet, concrete or tiles etc perhaps, but in the most cases I patch it using Photoshop for the times I do not capture the nadir image. I do not use the clone tool very much.. Those who do use the clone tool tend to create a smudged effect.. I have developed my way of fixing the nadir using a patch so its quick for me to do.

Destiny..

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:26 am 
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Destiny wrote:
Yes, I too prefer to have my head level but I do not like the Fanotec leveller, I much prefer the ball types. It just seems to me to be the right way of doing things, after all

Well hard to argue with that of course ;-) Personal preference is .....personal. For me it is a matter of what works that works, preferably simply and durable.

Destiny wrote:
>.. most of the pano tools from the hand held tools like the NN4 to the motorised types like the VR Drive II all have leveller bubbles.. Therefore, I am sure its important to set it level first...

The bubble is there because people want it there and might wanna pay more for a panohead with a bubble. The fact alone that the bubble is there doesn't proof that you really need one. But I admit, I use it anyway, even though Klaus is problably right saying that you don't really need it.

Destiny wrote:
I also have the Nadir Adaptor for my NN4 so I wouldn't bother using the bullhead to capture the nadir as you can see attached in the image above. But I would try to use my ballhead with my VR Drive II.

I totally agree. If I had a VR drive I would also use some sort of ballhead or maybe just a hinge to make it turn 90 degrees.

Destiny wrote:
Its true you can use a clone tool in Photoshop but as far as I am concerned, that is a rather amateurish way of doing things. Its fine for grass outside or for a none pattern carpet, concrete or tiles etc perhaps, but in the most cases I patch it using Photoshop for the times I do not capture the nadir image. I do not use the clone tool very much.. Those who do use the clone tool tend to create a smudged effect.. I have developed my way of fixing the nadir using a patch so its quick for me to do.
Destiny..

I would love to try my stitching skills on a set of photos of yours with nadir shots. I believe that with the right shooting pattern I can make things beautifull with the use of APG only. Just my way of doing things, other can do it their own way.

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Last edited by HansKeesom on Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:43 am 
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The unique thing about the Acratech GP Ballhead is the fact that it rolls over to exactly 90 degrees which is why I want to try it as a nadir capture tool.. As soon as my screw stud arrives I will try it out.. All I need to do is raise the centre post to match the shooting position as best as possible... Since this will be the same distance each time, I am sure I can put a marker on the centre post or even a stop.. The VR Drive II has a slot to mount a different type of level bubble.. This will also help..

Destiny...

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Primary School Teacher - Hobby Virtual Tours and 3D/360 Object/Product Photographer - Our aim is to create a 3D/360 Virtual Tour Shop/Store with links to 3D/360 degree products. My gear, VR Drive II - D90 - Nikon 10.5 fisheye - Nikon D800 with Nikon-Nikkor 14-24 - NOVOFLEX Magic Balance - Acratech GP Ball-head - Nodal Ninja 4 + RD-16 Rotor - Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 Carbon Fiber Tripod :) :)


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:50 am 
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Destiny wrote:
The unique thing about the Acratech GP Ballhead is the fact that it rolls over to exactly 90 degrees which is why I want to try it as a nadir capture tool.. As soon as my screw stud arrives I will try it out.. All I need to do is raise the centre post to match the shooting position as best as possible... Since this will be the same distance each time, I am sure I can put a marker on the centre post or even a stop.. The VR Drive II has a slot to mount a different type of level bubble.. This will also help..

Destiny...

Yes I heard about that trick for automated panoheads. Not having an automated panohead myself I find it hard to imagine why you want to make a nadirshot with an automated head. That is problably because I would still use my manuall head for focal lenghs untill 24 mm and above that would not care about the nadir. Of course others might have different ideas about this.
Which focal lenghts do you use on your VR Drive II?

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I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business and shooting you might want me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:57 pm 
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Location: Duesseldorf, Germany
Destiny wrote:
Yes, I too prefer to have my head level but I do not like the Fanotec leveller, I much prefer the ball types.

I have the biggest Monoball-version from Arca-Swiss. Guess there is no ballhead on the market which is more sturdy . . I use it for my 8x10" Linhof.
But i don´t use it for panorama-shooting with motorized heads.

Ball-heads add vibrations to the assembly. EACH ball-head - eben my somewhat giant Arca-Swiss. That´s easy understandable: a ball-head makes the lever longer which works on the junction, where the head is screwed to the tripod´s column. The best way regarding stability and lowering vibrations - every mechanic-pro can tell you - is to have as few devices in between as possible.
So the best way is to mount the head straight to the column - no leveller and definitely not ball-head in between.

I´m working (!) with heavy cameras and heavy heads on heavy tripods now for about 40 years as a pro. I used most brands on the market - including professional movie-camera gear from Arri, Aaton, Sachtler, O´Connor and others.
And i´m working (!) also with mid-size cameras, heads and tripods for about 40 years.

So you might believe to my advise or not - your business.

best, Klaus

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Last edited by klausesser on Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:18 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
That is problably because I would still use my manuall head for focal lenghs untill 24 mm and above that would not care about the nadir.

That´s basically a good idea. But 1) it doesn´t provide XMLs and 2) what about needing to lift the camera up to, let´s say: 3m?
How would you move it from the ground?

I experienced situations where i definitely needed XML even when i used a fisheye - a room of 90% white, a very narrow space like a bathroom with white walls very close,
clear blues sky in the open when i stood on a tower and didn´t have any item in the Zenith-shot what could be used for finding control-points (ok: if it´s just the nadir shot you can move it manually).
I did a shoot in a galery - standing very close to a very long and rather high wall of only black and using a 20mm lens. Without XML it would have needed very much more time to stitch the 24 shots.

I very often lift the camera up to 2,50/3m - i can do it using my Gitzo alone - and it helps a lot in many situations. Definitely wouldn´t be able to move the camera then without carrying a ladder around . . . . :cool: i can control everything from the ground using a 3m cable on the controller while watching the camera´s live-view on a field-monitor attached to one tripod-leg)

So: IF you have a motorized head at all - you will prefer to use it all the time i bet.

But of coure there are other occasions where it´s definitely cleverer to use a lightweight manual head with fisheye or 20mm (on FX).

best, Klaus

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Last edited by klausesser on Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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