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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:09 pm 
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oreo5000 wrote:
Hi Guys, I now have a nodal ninja 5, an EZ leveller II and the Canon 15mm 2.8 on my MKIII.
Can anyone give me a starting point for the rail/arm settings?
Thanks again

How much do the bodies of the 3 generations of 5D vary in size? If 't they don't vary much then:

http://shop.nodalninja.com/canon-cameras/

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:13 pm 
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Thanks man, I'll start there. Remind me again how to test this in PTgui. I seem to remember stitching 2 images and then outputting a layered PSD which I then checked in photoshop.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:06 pm 
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Quick question guys, if I'm shooting 5+1 I'm guessing I need to rotate in 72 degree increments? The only problem is my NN5 clicks into 10 degree stops. Should I lock it off at 72? Or am I better off shooting 6+1 and rotating in 60 degree increments

Hope that makes sense

Thanks again


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:25 pm 
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oreo5000 wrote:
Quick question guys, if I'm shooting 5+1 I'm guessing I need to rotate in 72 degree increments? The only problem is my NN5 clicks into 10 degree stops. Should I lock it off at 72? Or am I better off shooting 6+1 and rotating in 60 degree increments

Hope that makes sense

Thanks again

I guess it´s better to use the click-stop!

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 4:19 pm 
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Thanks Klaus
I am trying to nail the nodal point, I have uploaded a .PSD here for you guys to take a look at. Any advice based on this?
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12865229/T1.psd

Thanks again


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 5:30 pm 
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oreo5000 wrote:
Thanks Klaus
I am trying to nail the nodal point, I have uploaded a .PSD here for you guys to take a look at. Any advice based on this?
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/12865229/T1.psd

Thanks again

?? What´s that supposed to tell us?

best, Klaus

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Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. Coco Chanel


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 5:32 pm 
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Sorry Klaus, I was following this guide here http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm
John seems to have managed it with no movement, but I can't seem to get any closer than my example.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 5:41 pm 
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klausesser wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
It's much more fun when Klaus finds this "easter egg" himself. Second best is anyone else but me.

Come on - you don´t have the answer.

I have the answer but I don't have to answer. But only for making nadirs without photoshop, not for some other 'problems' .
klausesser wrote:
Did you ever use 35mm, 50mm or 85mm for shooting a sphere?

Yes
klausesser wrote:
How did you shoot the Nadirs then?
Best, Klaus

Try to read better Klaus!
I wrote clearly that I will do a test coming weekend with a shooting pattern that is an extension of what we use for fisheye lenses. Theory is that by extending the method we use for fisheye lenses, it will deliver good results also for 35, 50 and maybe even 85 mm for a sphere. The weekend begins coming friday!

Meanwhile I have turned on the Auto Render option because the pattern we use for fisheye lenses is executed so well by the photographers I work with that automaticly I get a rather good nadir already which is good enough to be shown to our customers as first version. Editing can be done on days when we have less panoramas coming in.

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I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


Last edited by HansKeesom on Wed Apr 03, 2013 5:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 5:51 pm 
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oreo5000 wrote:
Quick question guys, if I'm shooting 5+1 I'm guessing I need to rotate in 72 degree increments? The only problem is my NN5 clicks into 10 degree stops. Should I lock it off at 72? Or am I better off shooting 6+1 and rotating in 60 degree increments

Hope that makes sense

Thanks again

Better to have too much overlap then missing parts of the globe. So yes, 60 degrees.

Be sure to check first if you indeed see a decent overlap in your viewfinder when moving from one to another position. Better safe then sorry.

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


Last edited by HansKeesom on Wed Apr 03, 2013 5:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 6:36 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
klausesser wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
It's much more fun when Klaus finds this "easter egg" himself. Second best is anyone else but me.

Come on - you don´t have the answer.

I have the answer but I don't have to answer. But only for making nadirs without photoshop, not for some other 'problems' .
klausesser wrote:
Did you ever use 35mm, 50mm or 85mm for shooting a sphere?

Yes
klausesser wrote:
How did you shoot the Nadirs then?
Best, Klaus

Try to read better Klaus!
I wrote clearly that I will do a test coming weekend with a shooting pattern that is an extension of what we use for fisheye lenses. Theory is that by extending the method we use for fisheye lenses, it will deliver good results also for 35, 50 and maybe even 85 mm for a sphere. The weekend begins coming friday!

Meanwhile I have turned on the Auto Render option because the pattern we use for fisheye lenses is executed so well by the photographers I work with that automaticly I get a rather good nadir already which is good enough to be shown to our customers as first version. Editing can be done on days when we have less panoramas coming in.

hello Hans!

I´m afraid to be reading more carefully than you might tihink . . ;):cool:

I asked whether you used 35, 50 nd 85mm for shooting a sphere and - given you did - how you managed to shoot a Nadir then.
You said "Yes", you did . . . . but you seem not to like to answer the question regarding the Nadir.

Well - either you DID shoot spheres with 35 - 85mm and you DID shoot Nadirs with them - or you DID shoot spheres but DID NOT shoot Nadirs with them. Why?

btw.: thank you for informing me about that - i surely would have miss it . . ;):cool::cool:

Fisheye always is the easiest way of shooting panos - and can be automated best, i fully agree!

best to you, Klaus

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Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. Coco Chanel


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 6:54 pm 
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klausesser wrote:
I´m afraid to be reading more carefully than you might tihink . . ;):cool:

The fact that you say that about yourself .........

klausesser wrote:
I asked whether you used 35, 50 nd 85mm for shooting a sphere and - given you did - how you managed to shoot a Nadir then.
You said "Yes", you did . . . . but you seem not to like to answer the question regarding the Nadir.

I did answer it by saying I would do a test with my extended pattern coming weekend. Logically it follows that I did not do nadir shots with 35 mm to 85 mm focal lenses.


klausesser wrote:
Well - either you DID shoot spheres with 35 - 85mm and you DID shoot Nadirs with them - or you DID shoot spheres but DID NOT shoot Nadirs with them. Why?

See answer above, i did not shoot nadirs for 35-85 mm yet. But I will do so this weekend and present you with the result of which I am confident.

klausesser wrote:
btw.: thank you for informing me about that - i surely would have miss it . . ;):cool::cool:

'That'? What do you refer to?
klausesser wrote:
Fisheye always is the easiest way of shooting panos - and can be automated best, i fully agree!

I tend to disagree here. When using a good pattern and an xml-file, longer lengths shouldn't be a problem. But I will find out in my test this weekend.

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


Last edited by HansKeesom on Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:13 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
klausesser wrote:
btw.: thank you for informing me about that - i surely would have miss it . . ;):cool::cool:

'That'? What do you refer to?

Sorry - my mistake: i referred to your informing me that the next weekend begins on next friday :D

HansKeesom wrote:
klausesser wrote:
Fisheye always is the easiest way of shooting panos - and can be automated best, i fully agree!

I tend to disagree here. When using a good pattern and an xml-file, longer lengths shouldn't be a problem. But I will find out in my test this weekend.

We experienced to being able covering a Nadir-shot from the head up to around 76mm focal-length.

Buth that´s only maths and neglects needed overlapping also as it leaves away the absolute need of extremely precise aiming the right point.

So in reality it maybe 50mm max. you can use for a single Nadir-shot.

Using a longer lens means you have to move the camera/head. But that´s hardly possible without issues because when the camera sits turned 180° on the head
it moves in the oposite direction compard to it´s normal position. It´s "outside the rig".

Using short lenses it´s - as i stated several times - not a big issue. I do it sometimes depending on the kind of ground i´m standing on.

But in the end i realized that i don´t save time at all by shooting a Nadir additionally compared to editing it in PS. I´m rather experienced in PS and
maybe that´s why i´m faster :cool: - but i´m also rather experienced in pano-shooting . . :D

I talked to Josef about that - we decided to provide a gadget which allows in about 20 seconds to set the camera "outside" on the head for looking straight down
from the same point it was before. Comes as an option and will be cheap.

best, Klaus

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Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. Coco Chanel


Last edited by klausesser on Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:22 pm 
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klausesser wrote:
But in the end i realized that i don´t save time at all by shooting a Nadir additionally compared to editing it in PS. I´m rather experienced in PS and
maybe that´s why i´m faster :cool: - but i´m also rather experienced in pano-shooting . . :D

Really Klaus..... sometimes ....

klausesser wrote:
I talked to Josef about that - we decided to provide a gadget which allows in about 20 seconds to set the camera "outside" on the head for looking straight down
from the same point it was before. Comes as an option and will be cheap.

best, Klaus

Sounds to me like the nodal ninja nadapter in Josef version

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:33 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
klausesser wrote:
But in the end i realized that i don´t save time at all by shooting a Nadir additionally compared to editing it in PS. I´m rather experienced in PS and
maybe that´s why i´m faster :cool: - but i´m also rather experienced in pano-shooting . . :D

Really Klaus..... sometimes ....

"sometimes" WHAT?? :cool:

HansKeesom wrote:
klausesser wrote:
I talked to Josef about that - we decided to provide a gadget which allows in about 20 seconds to set the camera "outside" on the head for looking straight down
from the same point it was before. Comes as an option and will be cheap.

best, Klaus

Sounds to me like the nodal ninja nadapter in Josef version

It´s VERY different, much stronger regarding heavy cameras/lenses and more comfortable - besides: NN didn´t invent looking straight down beneath the vertical arm . . did they?

best, Klaus

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:09 pm 
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It has to be different then the nnna. I am curious to see how it automaticly moves the tripod ;-)

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Regards, Hans Keesom
I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:21 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
I am curious to see how it automaticly moves the tripod ;-)

It doesn´t. As said all this devices are useless above 50mm. It´s for fisheyes, 20mm, 35mm and 50mm.

It´s for one shot - as is the NN.

best, Klaus

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Last edited by klausesser on Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 10:06 pm 
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Sure Klaus, sleep well and sweat dreams [Big grin]

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I stitch and render for other photographers. If you want to concentrate on your business let me do the stitching for you.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 10:26 pm 
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HansKeesom wrote:
Sure Klaus, sleep well and sweat dreams [Big grin]

Need to work longer - go to bed more likely in the morning when you have breakfast . . :cool:

Had a look to the NN Nadir-Adapter (hard to find btw.) Can´t imagine a D3x or D800/Handgrip and 12-24mm on it and 7 steps bracketing with 3 seconds exposure time for each image in a somewhat windy or busy surrounding . . But maybe i´m wrong.
http://www.traumflieger.de/shop/product_info.php?products_id=865

And now imagine a camera mounted on the outside of THIS vertical arm:
http://www.bonnmedia.de/TundC/index.php?ln=de&tp=pk_home

best, Klaus

PS: but let´s come to an end of this dicussion. It leads nowhere.

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Last edited by klausesser on Wed Apr 03, 2013 10:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 3:49 am 
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klausesser wrote:
I talked to Josef about that - we decided to provide a gadget which allows in about 20 seconds to set the camera "outside" on the head for looking straight down
from the same point it was before. Comes as an option and will be cheap.

This interests me.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 3:56 am 
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Before I got the Panoneed last week I shot many, many spherical panoramas with this kit: http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PG-02-Pro-OPP&type=3&eq=&desc=PG-02-Pro-Omni-Pivot-Package I added a 1.75" spacer for more height on the vertical arm. It was very easy to reverse mount the vertical arm and move the tripod to the side for the nadir shot. Kinda miss that with the Panoneed. :-)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:24 am 
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Hi Guys,
I found some additional plates for my NN5, one of them is 72 degrees so 5 stops.
Should I swap this out to do 5+1 or am I safer sticking with 6+1?

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:43 am 
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oreo5000 wrote:
Hi Guys,
I found some additional plates for my NN5, one of them is 72 degrees so 5 stops.
Should I swap this out to do 5+1 or am I safer sticking with 6+1?

Cheers

FWIW I would stick with 6+1.

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:00 am 
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Thanks, I'll stick with that then.

Would you guys reccomend PTgui over APG?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:36 am 
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Just noticed also that -12 deg results in part of my NN5 arm being visible in the lower right of the frame. Will this cause a problem at all?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:43 am 
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oreo5000 wrote:
Just noticed also that -12 deg results in part of my NN5 arm being visible in the lower right of the frame. Will this cause a problem at all?

It should not - but you'll find out soon enough.;)

Use just enough negative pitch that you just 'catch' the outer edge of the central rotator in the frame.

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Andrew Stephens
Nikon D40, Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye, Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye, Nikkor 18-55/50/35mm lenses, Nodal Ninja 5 Lite, Nodal Ninja 4 with R-D16, Agno's MrotatorTCS short.
Nikon P5100, CP5000, CP995, FC-E8, WC-E63,WC-E68, TC-E2, Kaidan Kiwi 995, Bophoto pano bracket, Agno's MrotatorA.
Merlin/Orion robotic pano head + Papywizard on Nokia 770/N800/N810 and Windows 8/XP/2K.


Last edited by mediavets on Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

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