sorry your porsting did not get my attention until now... sorry for being so late...
No need to apoligise, your contributions als always well worth the waiting
the Hama Wireless... how is this connected to your canon?
The receiver is connected to the camera into the hole with 3 pins in there. The camera is a 40 D
I usually use the TC controller in combination with the promote and the merling
I can do 2 ways:
1. TC connected to merlin and merlin shutterplug->promote control accessory port and promote control shutterrelease and/or promote usb to according plugs of my canon. (with usb the shutter is faster)
here the TC holds the info for the shooting parameter, grid, planar, spherical, cam body, lens used etc. shutterrelease sequence is going from TC handcontroller to merlin and via merlin shutterrelease plug going to promote control assessories port, here the HDR program sequence is started and aperture, bracket info etc plus shutterrelease signals are going via shutter plug and/or via usb cable to the canon.
2. with same hardware also is possible: shutterplig at the TC handcontroller is connected to promote assessories port etc...
difference is the xml file which gets logged by the TC handcontroller. in 2. it contains only 1 bracket, also if promote is set to HDR with x brackets... in 1. the TC can also be set to x brackets, but only one signal is sent via merlin to promote so only the HDR sequence is started once...
For the moment I will be working without a Merlin so that would make things easier, but that might change in the future so good to keep that in mind. Using the Merlin and a normal lens will problably have a huge effect on quality.
of course also without theTC handcontroller its possible...
promote shutter plug and/or usb cable is connected to the canon. but now youve to manually start the peogram sequence of the promote. so in combination with merlin and papywizzard you can pause than start promote sequence then end paus at the papywizzard
so if you write "from a distance" if this is up to 1.5m than the promote device with extra long cables can do it without the hama...
That is good to know. Options are always good to have, just in case.
does it help stiching with autopano? dont think so. it can help you trick the limits of your lenses.
Ok, so still same rotation settings as without focus settings, just better endresult.
each lens can be set to its hyperfocal distance. this depends on focal length and of used aperture. to make a short conclusion: high f number f/19/22/32 value = near hyperfocal distance and low f number used f8-f1.4 = far away hyperfocal distance. example samyang 85mm 1.4 lens: at f/1.4 the hyperfocal distance is more than 250m away.... f/22 = 15m
so depending on how my objects are placed on scene and if I want to have them sharp on my pano, I have to use a certain aperture and this affects the possible range for the shutter release times of each bracket and of the possible number of brackets. So in many combinations now some objects would be unsharp on my pano... so here the focus stacking can help me on same image position. the promote focus stacking feature now does some steps automatically. it will shot on one image position not only one image or if desired an bracket of images (for HDR/tonemapping) but now additional according sets of images by changing by autofocus the focus of your lens. This now is against all current rules praying to use your lens set to manual ;-)) In result you've a lot , really a lot of images you've to deal with. the according focus stacking images must be treated with an external software so all sharp parts of each single image is combined to one final sharp image for each image position of the pano. this reduced sets of images (now can be HDR fuesed/stacked/tonemapped with external programms like enfusegui or photomatix pro or with autopano by using the grouping by stack tool before pano detection...
I realise I need to read into hyperfocal theory a lot more before being able to do this. It is not an easy trick. Also I need to do some work on the workflow but that seems like do-able. I normally stay away from too much HDR but that is also because my camera does not go that far. Thank you for laying out something for me to study on.
super resolution effect like discussed in the other mentioned thread: no, not more than a pseudo effect. one single image does not contain more bytes, nore has bigger dimensions or megapixels it also has not less noise, less dissortion or chromatic aberations. So to achieve this you've to shoot each single shot image in above scenario multiple times with equal settingsh, to see real effects you would need minimum of 5-10 sets per image.
and these sets could than combined with oloneo software or photoshop elements 9 (from these two software I knwo they have this feature) to reduce noise and to achieve some sort of super resolution... (in my case I rather would change my camera from canon eos 400D to 1DMK2 instead of using last mentioned method to raise image quality)
Yep, there is a practical limit on how much you can improve quality using these "tricks", sometimes you just need to buy better gear.
PS: the promote manual can be found here: https://support.promotesystems.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=4&pcid=0&nav=0
PPS: to reduce time and needed resouces for above scenarios you could consider using:http://www.roundshot.ch/xml_1/internet/de/application/d438/d925/f934.cfm
(160 megapixel per image and no need for bracketing, because the seitz covers more EVs, so builtin HDR shooting with one click...)
but therfore you've to raise the money factor ;-)))
Found the manual allready, will dive into it.
Yes great camera, I will soon have made enough money for it :-)