 |
|
|
|
|
|
 |
| ||||||||
 |
 
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| ||||||||
|
|
| 
| User list | You are not logged in.
I have checked the instructions for Autopano. Am I able to make a complete spherical image without a fisheye lens? I am not finding instruction on completly wrapping the photo stitch to include the nadir and zenith images. I would like to stitch a multi row image with my lens set at 35 mm.
Any clarification on this process or instruction on where to find the tutorial is greatly appreciated.
Offline
Yes you can, just takes many more shots to accomplish. Have you looked at http://www.vrwave.com/ to see what the optimum technique and number of shots etc for the lens that you are using?
Offline
UK Pano,
Thanks for the link. I'm using a AF-S DX 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6ED VR II Nikkor lens. I've set it to 35 mm to try and in-camera compensate for the barrel distortion. Is there specific instruction that assists with helping me understand how to include the top and bottom images?
Again, thanks
Offline
Hmm, not sure on the number of shots to use for your lens as I see it isn't listed. Perhaps other users here will be able to advise.
The type of pano head will also dictate how to take the Nadir and Zenith shots.
For example with a Nodal Ninja 3 or 5 or 360Precision Absolute or Adjuste heads, you can point the camera down to capture the nadir. This isn't possible with the Nodal Ninja Ultimate range however as they can't move as such.
I have the 360Precision Adjuste with Sigma 8mm FE so I take 6 around at 0 degrees, on the sixth shot I then point upwards to +65 degress to capture the zenith. For the nadir, I move the pano head +90 upwards so that the lens is effectively pointing downwards and take two shots at 180 degrees opposite sides, i.e. take one shot and then move the pano head 180 around for the other side.
When in PS then create an alpha channel mask over the pano head shown in the two 180 degree shots to mask it out. Lastly a hand held shot approximately at the same height as it was on the pano head to capture the centre of the project.
Place the 6 around, +65 and 2 x alpha channeled 180 degree shots into APG and process. WIth some tweaking of incorrect control points I can get a RMS of around 2 or 3 on a bad day.
Then cut the equi jpeg into cubes and place the hand held over the cubed nadir shot using PS, or can be cloned from the surrounding area or capped with a little planet or personal logo/monogram as you see file. Eric Rougier's tutorial found on fromparis.com is how I learnt this technique but a search of alpha channel on the forum will pull this up as well.
Then ta da!, nadir is patched. Change back from cube to equi and export using AutoPano Tour.
Hope this helps.
Offline
vbob wrote:
UK Pano,
Thanks for the link. I'm using a AF-S DX 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6ED VR II Nikkor lens. I've set it to 35 mm to try and in-camera compensate for the barrel distortion. Is there specific instruction that assists with helping me understand how to include the top and bottom images?
Again, thanks
You can create a 360x180 pano with any lens, but the longer the focal length the more images are required to provide 360x180 coverage and the more difficult it will probably be to stitch the images.
If you don't have proper pano head then you may find it very difficult to create a 360x180 pano, although you may get a resaonable result if shooting/stitching a partial pano (less than 360x180) of a relatively distant scene (nothing closer to the camera than say 50 metres).
With your setup I suggest you set the zoom to the shortest focal length possible - 16mm in this instance - in order to reduce the number of shots required for 360x180 coverage.
Using a properly set up pano head, you need to shoot this pattern for 360x180 coverage with zoom at 16mm:
Min. shots (1.5x): N, 8 images every 45° at -30° pitch, 8 images every 45° at +30° pitch, Z(enith)
Even so you are quite likely to have problem stitching the image because you are quite likely to have some images which are relatively featureless making in hard for the software to link these images to others (I'm thinking of blue sky shots outdoors, and white ceiling shots indoors).
Oh - and I wouldn't start messing with in-camera distortion correction until you've tried without it.
Last edited by mediavets (2010-08-25 23:29:09)
Offline
Thank you both for taking the time to answer. I should have been more complete on the equipment being used. I do have a Nodal Ninja 3 with leveler so the settings are useful. THe shot I am trying to complete is an inside room with tiled ceiling and patterned floor. I think the software will do okay with the stitching as the furinature is fairly close.
I think I was being too concerned with the lens distortion so I convinced myself I needed to work mid-range on the focal distance. Hence, I used the 35 mm option. I will give the project a go with 16 mm no lens corrections.
I was able to stitch a project of an outdoor shot at 35mm. FOV came out at 360 X 167.12 so I'm getting there.
Again, thanks for taking the time to answer.
Offline
No worries vbob, keep us posted on your progress 
Offline