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Hi guys
Is there a role for mirror-lockup in shooting of panos? I'm plagued by grainy images and I'm looking for a solution.
Using a 450D, 18mm, Manual mode, ISO100, F-tried them all, AEB +/- 2EV. Shutter times on long exposure shots are sometimes 4-8sec and darker areas there is considerable noise.
My understanding is that mirror lockup is useful for very short exposures... My question should be: Given my gear what settings would you experienced panographers use for a relatively poorly lit room?
Many many thanks
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doceave wrote:
Hi guys
Is there a role for mirror-lockup in shooting of panos? I'm plagued by grainy images and I'm looking for a solution.
Using a 450D, 18mm, Manual mode, ISO100, F-tried them all, AEB +/- 2EV. Shutter times on long exposure shots are sometimes 4-8sec and darker areas there is considerable noise.
My understanding is that mirror lockup is useful for very short exposures... My question should be: Given my gear what settings would you experienced panographers use for a relatively poorly lit room?
Many many thanks
If you can't introduce more light to the scene then I think I'd trying bumping up the ISO and using a relatively large aperture to reduce the exposure time. And use a wired or IR remote to trigger the shutter.
Do you need AEB? If you do is the relatively poor range of bracketing offered by AEB sufficient to make any real difference?
Of course I'd use a fisheye lens too.
Do show us a screenshot so we have a better idea of the challenges you face with this pano scene.
Last edited by mediavets (2010-06-15 13:21:38)
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doceave wrote:
My understanding is that mirror lockup is useful for very short exposures... My question should be: Given my gear what settings would you experienced panographers use for a relatively poorly lit room?
Poor light isn´t basically a major problem: you can use long exp. times. But you HAVE TO lock the mirror in such cases.
The mirror-up movement shakes the camera. This shake runs through the body into the head and tripod, is partly reflected an reaches the body again with a delay. In a range between - depending on focal length - 1/30 and some sec it´s very critical.
Very long times overlay a micro-vibration by the length of the time - so the vibrations are gone after some fractions of seconds and the still-time dominates the exposure.
But it´s vital not to generate ANY shaking when using long focal length or using longer exposure times even with short lenses- that´s what the mirror-lock is meant for. Surely you know the effect when looking through binoculars: the more they enlarge your objects the harder it is to hold them. The very same it is with a camera and a tele-lens and also with a camera using long exposure times due to poor light.
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2010-06-15 16:09:01)
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I photograph with and assist a photographer here in Western Australia, and almost everything is shot on tripod and with mirror lockup. There is a difference! its just that bit crisper and sharper. I often forget to do this.
However I do not believe that MLU causes noise! Noise and blur are two very different things unless you have not expressed yourself clearly enough.
If you want a rule for using MLU, then use this if your shutter speed is slower then 1/Focal length at any given ISO speed, then use MLU :-) a bit like you should only hand hold your camera when you are shooting faster then 1/Focal length :-)
Good luck, if you still are experiencing this noise, then upload an image here so we can have a peek
Henrik
Last edited by tived (2010-07-19 20:39:08)
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