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Hi guys - I bought myself a Samyang FISH-EYE CS Lens Multi-Coated 8mm F3.5 from EBay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OUT-NOW-Samyang-8 … 518def0397
I've put the new lens on my Canon EOS 450D and have taken a few shots, but the quality is really bad!! I'm really new to photography and don't understand a lot of the terminology, so please be gentle with me.
I understand that this lens is a manual lens and have therefore followed the simple instructions in the lens user manual.
I’ve set the camera mode dial to ‘M’. I have to turn the brightness all the way up to 22 on the lens itself; otherwise I can’t see anything when looking through the camera, or it’s just very dark.
When trying to adjust the focus ring, absolutely nothing happens? Nothing changes at all?
Then, when I take a photo, the quality is terrible.
Is there something wrong with my lens, or, have I done something wrong?
Thanks for your help.
Last edited by cptpicard (2010-03-03 16:01:08)
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A few tips:
- use a tripod
- use a larger aperture than f22; something like f11 should give you better results
- set the focus to hyperfocal if you know it
- use a lower ISO value (you shot at 400)
- make some tests outdoor for a better light, without hard high/dark areas
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fma38 wrote:
A few tips:
- use a tripod
- use a larger aperture than f22; something like f11 should give you better results
- set the focus to hyperfocal if you know it
- use a lower ISO value (you shot at 400)
- make some tests outdoor for a better light, without hard high/dark areas
To which I'll add set the focus to something like 1m as a start. FE lenses have massive depth of field; I doubt you'd ever need to use an aperture smaller than f8.
See also:
http://www.autopano.net/forum/p56902-20 … -56#p56902
Here's what Michel Thoby has to say:
"Shooting with the distance of focus ring set at just a tiny bit below the "Infinity" mark is probably the best all around setting that can be. Closing the aperture ring to f/5.6 or f/8 and every thing should be as sharp as it can be!"
In his short review of the Samyang lens:
http://michel.thoby.free.fr/SAMYANG/Ear … eport.html
Last edited by mediavets (2010-03-02 12:44:29)
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I'm probably just being incredibly dense, but, when you change the focus, say from 0.3 to 1.5, for example, shouldn't you notice a difference when looking through the camera, as when I do it, nothing changes?
I'll keep playing, I guess I'm just not used to doing things manually, as usually, I just put it on auto and it does it all for me ![]()
A few other little questions... Should I use the flash, or just change the Aperture and ISO accordingly?
Also, I guess I'm going to have to change these settings each time I'm inside or outside?
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cptpicard wrote:
I'm probably just being incredibly dense, but, when you change the focus, say from 0.3 to 1.5, for example, shouldn't you notice a difference when looking through the camera, as when I do it, nothing changes?
Probably not - the camera LCD is very low res. really. Only way to optimise focus, bearing in mind that FE lenses like this have massive depth of field at all apertures, is to take a few test shots and when you've got it 'right' to perhaps tape it.
I'll keep playing, I guess I'm just not used to doing things manually, as usually, I just put it on auto and it does it all for me
You are learning that shooting panos just ain't like that. The usual recommendation is always to use manual everything when shooting panos.
A few other little questions... Should I use the flash, or just change the Aperture and ISO accordingly?
NEVER use flash when shooting panos - try if you like and you'll see why not. Normally you would shoot at fixed aperture (always), say f8, and adjust shutter speed, shooting at as low an ISO as possible vs. shutter speeds to minimise noise. Of course in a scene with a lot of movement you may wish to have as fast a shutter as possible so then you might crank up the ISO and even increase the aperture (smaller f no.) a bit.
Also, I guess I'm going to have to change these settings each time I'm inside or outside?
No, you will normally keep the focus (some people tape the lens at a particular setting to avoid it changing unintentionally) and aperture the same all the time and merely adjust the shutter speed and ISO (but keeping them constant for every shot is a pano). Repeat - do not change the settings between shots when shooting a pano.
..........
FWIW there were a lot of things I couldn't quite grasp, and advice I didn't really understand, about shooting panos until I actually started shooting panos. So perhaps at the outset just 'follow the rules' (even without trying to fully understand them) and practise, practise, practise. It will all become clear and pretty much 'second nature' soon enough if you just shoot lots of panos.
Last edited by mediavets (2010-03-02 13:09:15)
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I use the Samyang on a Nikon D700. I placed the camera on a tripod and hooked the camera to the Nikon software Camera Control Pro 2. I could focus the Samyang on the screen of my notebook and also make all the test shots I wanted. The Result was that the distance scale of the lens is way off reality. I found out that I could set the focus ring to the position indicating 3 feet (red numbers) which is just a little bit before the 1 meter position. I closed the diaphragm to half way between 8 and 11. Stopping down to 16 didn't bring better results.
I think Canon has similar software to link your camera directly to your computer. Using the computer screen is also very helpful in finding the NPP as you can see a muck clearer and bigger picture on your computer. I put a tape around the barrel of the lens to fix the settings.
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I've been having a play with various different settings. I have to say, it's probably the best thing I've done buying this manual lens... its made be HAVE to learn all about shutter speed/ISO, Aperture, focus ring etc...
My settings for the Canon EOS 450D with Samyang 8mm F3.5 FE Lens are;
Focus Ring: 3 (just before infinity)
Aperture: 5.6 / 8
ISO: 800 (in low lit room) 200 outside
Shutter Speed: 1/30 (changes depending on whether inside or outside)
I'm getting much better photos now. I'll keep playing to find the optimum setting.
Thanks for all your advise, I've really learnt a lot so far ![]()
Cpt
Last edited by cptpicard (2010-03-03 14:38:20)
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cptpicard wrote:
I've been having a play with various different settings. I have to say, it's probably the best thing I've done buying this manual lens... its made be HAVE to learn all about shutter speed/ISO, Aperture, focus ring etc...
My settings for the Canon EOS 450D with Samyang 8mm F3.5 FE Lens are;
Focus Ring: 3 (just before infinity)
Aperture: 5.6 / 8
ISO: 800 (in low lit room) 200 outside
Shutter Speed: 1/30 (changes depending on whether inside or outside)
I'm getting much better photos now. I'll keep playing to find the optimum setting.
Thanks for all your advise, I've really learnt a lot so far
Cpt
I would really try to get the iso 800 down to iso 100/200 by mounting the camera on a tripod or some other rigid support and increasing the exposure time unless there are moving subjects in the image.
Using a tripod gives you control over the selection of aperture/shutter/iso rather than the conditions forcing you to compromise.
To reduce image noise the lowest iso rating should be used taking into acount the need for depth of field or to freeze moving subjects. Shooting at high iso should be the last resort if you are looking for quality images.
Last edited by Photosbykev (2010-03-03 18:16:50)
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Yes, the quality isn't the best. Although a lot better than I've had previously.
I've put the ISO down to 200 and also decreased the shutter speed to 1/6 instead of 1/30. Overall, I can't really see a big difference in quality. Still look quite grainy!?
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Grainy? To me, that means excess noise. Try exposing to the right. (on my 5D, I find that +2/3Ev usually gives great results).
Sine others posted tips, here's another: If your images are too blurry, try using mirror lock-up. Some say use it between 1/80 and 1/8, others say 1/30 to 1/2 or even 1 sec. Also, use a cable release (or infrared remote, etc) or self-timer
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cptpicard wrote:
Hi guys - I bought myself a Samyang FISH-EYE CS Lens Multi-Coated 8mm F3.5 from EBay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OUT-NOW-Samyang-8 … 518def0397
I've put the new lens on my Canon EOS 450D and have taken a few shots, but the quality is really bad!! I'm really new to photography and don't understand a lot of the terminology, so please be gentle with me.
I understand that this lens is a manual lens and have therefore followed the simple instructions in the lens user manual.
I’ve set the camera mode dial to ‘M’. I have to turn the brightness all the way up to 22 on the lens itself; otherwise I can’t see anything when looking through the camera, or it’s just very dark.
When trying to adjust the focus ring, absolutely nothing happens? Nothing changes at all?
Then, when I take a photo, the quality is terrible.
Is there something wrong with my lens, or, have I done something wrong?
Thanks for your help.
Hi, i have the same settings.
how i use it:
450d:
Tripod and 303sph
Manual Shot - iso 100 (work with the shutter speed)
Samyang f11 ever ( in the night change everything ) to ∞
The shots are really good in every situation, best lens for this price.
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Hi guys
A number of questions - I am also using a similar camera to cptpicard (400D)
I am actively looking for an appropriate FE lens (your recommendation? Samyung?)
And lastly... I'm also experiencing considerable noise. Using the standard 18-55mm lens on 18mm, Manual, ISO100, f-tried them all. In order to get adequate brightness my exposure time is sometimes 4-8sec. Is this normal?
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Samyang is a good lens for the price, I think you have to experiment with your settings. If you are methodical in your approach it should work fine.
As for grainy noise!! I'd say look at you iso and your aperture maybe your doing something wrong. Other members maybe able to give you a more definitive solution, also why not post some of your grainy images up to enable us to see if they are really grainy of just normal!
Best
Gordon
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