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I'm interested in shooting 360x180 HDR panos with a crop camera (Canon 7D). I'd like to keep the pixel density higher than what I could get with a fisheye like the Peleng 8mm, but I also want to keep the shooting time under control since I might need to bracket really wide in some cases for the HDR shooting. My target resolution is 16,000 pixels horizontal resolution. I'll be using this with the Merlin/Papywizard for automated capture, so a few more shots isn't the end of the world, but the issue of shooting straight up to grab a zenith shot might be based on the NPP and size of the "Merlin" and my camera/lens combo.
As you can see, I'm riding a very fine line with my requirements and the mix of gear is crucial to success.
After a bit of research I realized what I probably need is something in the 11mm range. ( I want around a 100 deg vertical FOV in portrait mode so I can get the horizon and zenith in a single shot to make auto stitching work more reliably)
Does anyone have advice on which ultra-wide lens might be the best here? Does the extra 1 mm on the Sigma 10 - 20mm f/3.5 EX-DC give it an advantage over the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X 116 Pro DX?
The Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X 116 Pro DX gets excellent reviews based on it's speed and the quality it delivers. The Sigma 10 - 20mm f/3.5 EX-DC seems to get mixed reviews based on it's performance full-wide. I wonder if the extra 1mm is even "usable" and worth it.
I find myself stuck over which to get. The Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 might seem like a "no brainer" but I'm still a little concerned if it's wide enough. (The Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM isn't even in the running based on price and speed)
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I've noticed that very wide angle rectilinear lenses such as these often show complex distortions that make panos shot with them hard to stitch well.
Might a Tokina 10-17mm zoom fisheye meet the requirement?
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I didn't realize rectilinear lenses created MORE problems in stitching. For some reason I thought it was fisheyes that were tougher to un-distort. I'm glad I asked! (Though, Ken Rockwells review of the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X 116 Pro DX stated the distortion was "simple" and easier to remove than the Nikon equivalent)
The main reason I was gravitating toward a rectilinear lens was the issue of the fixed NPP. From what I've read, fisheyes have an NPP that shifts with the view angle. I was also interested in the extra speed of the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 compared to any other lens in this class.
However, As long as the NPP shift isn't to severe, I get the coverage/density I need, and I can stitch the shots successfully, I'll be happy.
Does anyone have experience with the Tokina 10-17mm zoom fisheye? How about the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X 116 Pro DX? (Remember, this is for 360x180 panos)
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Camera:
Focal length 10.0 mm
Lens vertical FOV 96.2 deg
Lens horizontal FOV 73.4 deg
Sensor size 14.9 x 22.3 mm
Sensor orientation portrait
Pano-head:
Accuracy 0.5 deg
Requested panorama:
vertical FOV 180.0 deg
Vertical overlap 20.0 % minimum
Horizontal overlap 20.0 % minimum
Resulting panorama:
vertical FOV 180.0 deg
Vertical overlap 49 %
Horizontal overlap 19 % minimum
Zenith yes
Rows 2
Nadir no
Possible presets:
Img Panorama Top/btm ___Overlap___ Nadir | rows and Zenith
nbr FOV(deg) of rows Horiz vertic
14 | 90 /-90 | 46 /-46 | 19 % | 85 % | N -76 | 6@-8 | 6@8 | Z 76 |
13 | 90 /-90 | 81 /-46 | 19 % | 49 % | N -76 | 6@-8 | 6@42 |
13 | 90 /-90 | 46 /-81 | 19 % | 49 % | | 6@-42 | 6@8 | Z 76 | <=== this one
16 | 90 /-90 | 81 /-81 | 18 % | 56 % | | 5@-42 | 6@0 | 5@42 |Camera:
Lens FISHEYE <==
Focal length 10.0 mm
Lens vertical FOV 135.5 deg
Lens horizontal FOV 87.5 deg
used diagonal FOV 138.3 deg
Sensor size 14.9 x 22.3 mm
Sensor orientation portrait
Pano-head:
Accuracy 0.5 deg
Requested panorama:
vertical FOV 180.0 deg
Vertical overlap 20.0 % minimum
Horizontal overlap 20.0 % minimum
Resulting panorama:
vertical FOV 180.0 deg
Vertical overlap None
Horizontal overlap 21 % minimum
Zenith yes
Row single
Nadir no
Possible presets are:
Img Panorama Top/btm ___Overlap___ Nadir | rows and Zenith
nbr FOV(deg) of row Horiz vertic
7 | 90 /-90 | 34 /-34 | 18 % | -- | N -66 | 5@0 | Z 66 |
6 | 90 /-90 | 77 /-34 | 21 % | -- | N -66 | 5@22 |
6 | 90 /-90 | 34 /-77 | 21 % | -- | | 5@-22 | Z 66 | <== this one
10 | 90 /-90 | 77 /-77 | 22 % | 67 % | | 5@-23 | 5@23 |Offline
The above post shows results from future Papyspheric program when submiting data corresponding to:
- Canon 7D
- Sigma 10-20 rectilinear lens at 10 mm
- Tokina 10-17 fisheye at 10 mm
Note: I say this is a future program because I sometimes find bugs in it ! as a consequence those results are to be handled with care (they should be verified by actual tests of both lenses, that is.)
Your question about Sigma 10-20 mm (but, BTW, you could include the new Sigma 8 mm non-fisheye as a possible solution) corresponds to the tests I did with my Nikon 16-85 zoom and Tokina 10-17 mm fisheye zoom both at 16 mm using an APS-C camera. I used this 16 mm focal length because this is the widest focal length they share. A comparison with Sigma 10-20 would have been much more interesting. I wrote the posts in French language because I doubt rectilinear ultra-wide lenses being the best solution for spherical panos but am afraid of hurting peoples who dislike or despise fisheyes while not bringing solid enough arguments to base these doubts.
http://www.autopano.net/forum/t8381-tok … 6-mm-aps-c
Why am I in doubt about ultra-wide-angle lenses and spherical panos ?
When the goal is approximating a sphere with flat rectangular images what it's important is:
- how many degrees of the sphere surface each source image can cover
- how bad is the spherical image at some location on the sphere surface which corresponds to the worst results being recorded by the camera sensor
There is no doubt a fisheye can record larger vertical an horizontal FOV than a normal lens when focal length is identical. Something I found by observing my test results and which is confirmed by the theory is that next to the image center both lens "work in the same way". The problem is located near the far sides of the sensor and especially in the corners:
Full frame sensor size image, rectilinear lenses:
S1: Corners stretching along the diagonal
S2: Corner stretching perpendicular to the diagonal
S1 x S2 : Corner versus center ratio of pixels
Focal Diagonal
Length FOV S1 S2 S1 x S2
200 mm 12 deg 1.01 1.01 1.02
50 mm 46 deg 1.19 1.09 1.29
35 mm 63 deg 1.38 1.18 1.62
28 mm 75 deg 1.6 1.26 2.02
24 mm 84 deg 1.81 1.35 2.44
20 mm 94 deg 2.17 1.47 3.2
16 mm 107 deg 2.83 1.68 4.76
14 mm 114 deg 3.39 1.84 6.24
12 mm 121 deg 4.25 2.06 8.76
Example: the 2.0 ratio value for a 28 mm lens means that
if image of an object corresponds to 1 pixels when this
image is located next to the sensor center, an image of this
same object will correspond to 2 pixels when image
is being recorded in a corner of the sensor.In a few words: I doubt ultra-wide-angle lenses being a good solution for spherical panos, I have some clues about that but no consistent proof of that.
Last edited by GURL (2010-03-01 12:50:51)
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GURL wrote:
Why am I in doubt about ultra-wide-angle lenses and spherical panos ?
When the goal is approximating a sphere with flat rectangular images what it's important is:
- how many degrees of the sphere surface each source image can cover
- how bad is the spherical image at some location on the sphere surface which corresponds to the worst results being recorded by the camera sensor
[/b]
It seems to me your thinking is correct provided APP can un-distort the image correctly. At that point, the only concerns are just what you stated. ( What is the best image quality possible edge to edge at the max FOV? ) of course, in my case, there is the added concern of keeping the pixel density up. So I don't want to go TOO wide... just wide enough to get the job done.
If fish eyes have better edge sharpness, less edge CA, and more predicable/simpler distortion than rectilinear lenses they should be a better choice, provided the stitching software can deal with the distortion.
How sophisticated is APPs lens un-distortion? I've only been using it a short time and I haven't noticed any way to profile lenses the way the Panorama Tools stuff can.
Once I have my Merlin rig setup, I'd love to help you test Papyspheric!
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I'm surprised you've considered, and rejected, the Canon 10-22mm EF-S lens.
On the 7D it makes a stunning wide-angle lens and the f3.5 aperture certainly isn't a real issue.
Last edited by Photosbykev (2010-03-01 19:19:16)
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Hello all,
I'm surprised you've not considered the Canon 10-22mm EF-S lens. On the 7D it makes a stunning wide-angle lens but I haven't used it for any serious panos yet, but I will.
I confirm that, I have one for my 40D and I use allways for "High Pixels" pano's in "static" conditions... but I prefer the Tokina FE 10-17 for "moving conditions".
The "shaved" Tokina give also very high pano's quality with a full-frame camera (shaving by "360pano") !!!!
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I initially stated that I'd dismissed the Canon 10-22mm EF-S based on cost compared to the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8. But now that I've read more reviews I'm not as put off by the extra cost. It sounds like a really great lens.
However, now that GURL has put these extra ideas about fish eyes in my head, I feel like I need to do more research.
According to reviews, the Canon 10-22mm EF-S is supposed to have minimal distortion, which should help avoid the problems with wide rectilinear lenses both mediavets and GURL have suggested.
As I've mentioned, I'm attracted to the rectilinear lenses based on the fixed NPP. And they also seem like they'd be more versatile for NON panorama use.
I want to avoid too many dead ends and expense if I can. But maybe I aught to just settle on a lens and see how it works out.
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lordtangent wrote:
As I've mentioned, I'm attracted to the rectilinear lenses based on the fixed NPP. And they also seem like they'd be more versatile for NON panorama use.
I want to avoid too many dead ends and expense if I can. But maybe I aught to just settle on a lens and see how it works out.
Perhaps Claudevh can help you figure out what the final 360x180 pano res. would be using the Tokina 10-17mm zoom FE at 17mm on the 7D.
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Hello all,
I can't give the figures for the Canon 7D but they can be roughly extrapolated from the next "practical" results for Canon 40D and Canon 5D Mk2 ...
All figures are given for sphericals pano's !
+/- 100 Mb for Canon WA 10-22 mm @10 mm & 40D (10 Mpix) Preset 1@nadir,4@-60, 8@0, 4@+60 = 19 pics
+/- 85 Mb for Canon WA 10-22 mm @ 10 mm & Canon 40D (10 Mpix) Preset 6@-30, 6@+30 1@zenit = 13 pics
+/- 62 Mb for Tokina FE 10-17 mm @ 10 mm & Canon 40d (10 Mpix) "Snake" preset 4@-30, 4@+30, No Nadir, No Zenit
+/- 60 Mb for "shaved" Tokina FE 10-17 mm @ 12 mm & 5D MkII (21 Mpix) Preset only 4@0 !
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AFIK, a fisheye distorts the image less, a rectilinear lens has to distort the edges and corners to make lines straight.
So you've got whatever distortions occur in a complex curve on the glass, and mechanical inaccuracies, and the ideal distortion formula is messed up by real world errors.
Where APP can use very high precision numbers and doesn't have any of the "real world" errors (except for bugs, and there aren't many of those).
I use a 12-24 Sigma on a 5D, and the lens distorts. Then APP "undistorts" the image to a spherical projection. The formerly rectangular image starts to look round again (e.g. big time barreling.)
So IMO fisheye is a better lens if all you use it for are panos (and don't need a WA rectilinear lens).
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claudevh wrote:
Hello all,
I can't give the figures for the Canon 7D but they can be roughly extrapolated from the next "practical" results for Canon 40D and Canon 5D Mk2 ...
All figures are given for sphericals pano's !
+/- 100 Mb for Canon WA 10-22 mm @10 mm & 40D (10 Mpix) Preset 1@nadir,4@-60, 8@0, 4@+60 = 19 pics
+/- 85 Mb for Canon WA 10-22 mm @ 10 mm & Canon 40D (10 Mpix) Preset 6@-30, 6@+30 1@zenit = 13 pics
+/- 62 Mb for Tokina FE 10-17 mm @ 10 mm & Canon 40d (10 Mpix) "Snake" preset 4@-30, 4@+30, No Nadir, No Zenit
+/- 60 Mb for "shaved" Tokina FE 10-17 mm @ 12 mm & 5D MkII (21 Mpix) Preset only 4@0 !
At some point, the sensor may outresolve the lens, so you may have to downgrade these numbers.
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lordtangent wrote:
The main reason I was gravitating toward a rectilinear lens was the issue of the fixed NPP. From what I've read, fisheyes have an NPP that shifts with the view angle. I was also interested in the extra speed of the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 compared to any other lens in this class.
Don't assume that WA rectilinear lenses have a fixed NPP--I haven't researched it, but the NPP may shift in WA lenses also. And the NPP shifts with focal length and focus distance.
Speed is not really an issue in panos--you will probably use f/11 or f/16 to get lots of DOF -- and sometimes f/2.8 lenses get worse above f/5.6 or so.
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hankkarl wrote:
Speed is not really an issue in panos--you will probably use f/11 or f/16 to get lots of DOF -- and sometimes f/2.8 lenses get worse above f/5.6 or so.
Good point. I usually try to shoot at the smallest non-diffracting aperture I can for panos anyway, since the camera is on a tripod... and I want everything in focus.
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After some thought I decided on going with the Tokina FE 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 Fisheye.
Thanks everyone for all the great input and data. It helped me figure this out.
Here is my final logic:
Based on the input I got here, and elsewhere, it seems fish eyes are better than rectilinear lenses for Panos, so it's a better match for this application. The Tokina FE 10-17 mm has a good track record for shooting panos, and if I ever get a FF camera I can have it "shaved" and it will still be quite useful. The focal length overlaps my other lenses nicely, and will give me a really good range of FOVs to shoot panos with (including my 16,000x8000 target, and many others) As for the lenses slower speed, that isn't as big an issue for pano shooting. As for the lenses optical flaws, some CA as reported by several shooters, that can be fixed in software. For NON panorama use, the fish eye effect might be fun to have at times. (This is my first FE) And if I want super-wide views but NOT the fish eye distortion, I can always flatten out the images in software. As for the slowness of the lens for non-panorama situations, I don't anticipate using it much in low light anyway. When I do I'll just push the ISO on the camera and live with it.
So there you have it. My whole logic chain for going with the Tokina FE 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 Fisheye. Hopefully it will help others who might need to make a similar decision.
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