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Hi,
I have Autopano Giga 2.0.1 and I want do to something.
I want to create a small Gigapano with a small Tele-lens. But I only want to take photos with this tele lens for two rows (no automated pano-roboter). And the rest I would like to take with a fishey lens (bottom and sky).
So the final rendering should be at the size of the tele- images and the fisheye images should be enlarged to fit to the tele images.
And not the other way round, that the tele images will be reduced to fit to the fisheye-images.
I heard, that this is possible with special panorama software. I tried with Autopano Giga, but it tells me, that a mixture of lenses will not be supported.
Best regards
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my work around has been to just stich them as two seperate images, and pull them together in gimp/PS during post processing. Ive had mixed results depending on how close exposure/colours etc are between the two sets
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I'm quite sure that no software exists that can stitch mixed lens model.
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I think that will work, because APP can handle different lenses and different focal lengths I think, but not Fisheye lenses and standard lenses.
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Yes, if you defish the picture and then use it, it will work. The multifocal support in APP is really working great in v2. I made some 4 Gigapixels panorama with this technic ( 70mm for sky and 200mm for ground, it just awesome ).
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I've noticed that image sharpness matters, blurry parts of images don't always stitch to sharp parts as well as sharp parts of images stitch to sharp parts of other images.
So it may not be a simple matter of a focal length difference.
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I agree with you hankkarl. We are working on a blender that will use this focal length different to first keep the one from the longest focal.
The solution for the moment is either render several layer, one per focal then, blend manually in photoshop, or paint transparency. I did that once for a gigapixels :
70mm for the sky and 200mm everywhere else. The order of operation is important :
1. Detect the panorama ( jpeg in entry for example )
2. Convert the 70mm into png format, paint the ground transparent so the ground is forced to come from 200mm images
3. Replace in the .pano file the .jpg by .png for the image you edit
4. Render
It works really well ( if you don't forget to shoot some zone at 200 mm, I did this mistake ).
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Alexandre,
I usually use PS on the output PSB/PSD files, but there is a color difference at the edges of pictures.
Your technique allows the blender to do its job.
But your technique also is against the APP philosophy of "everything automatic as possible".
One way to do this is to allow us to paint transparacy in APP on each image.
I also want the ability to paint transparency on the pano editing window to paint on the sky, and on waves, and moving objects. This would say "don't use these CPs."
But your way (normal and telephoto shots) is more interesting. If we could paint a transparancy over part of the image in the pano editor, and then manually select the image parts to show there, it may be more effective.
I envision:
1. paint a region transparent. APP puts a mask over this region (or over the rest of the pano). You could paint the mask on or off.
2. click within the region. The mouse wheel would allow you to scroll through all the underlying images (as the CP editor does). Each image would be defined (eg use a border, highlight that image,etc), so you could see how much of the region it covers.
3. Right click would give an option to use the image.
4. several images may be selected within a region.
CPs within the region would not be used, except possibly CPs on overlapping selected images that are used.
Last edited by hankkarl (2009-05-29 17:31:16)
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hankkarl wrote:
Your technique allows the blender to do its job.
But your technique also is against the APP philosophy of "everything automatic as possible".
I agree. The real solution is having smartblend be aware of focal and he should decide directly to chose the right pixel !
hankkarl wrote:
One way to do this is to allow us to paint transparency in APP on each image.
I also want the ability to paint transparency on the pano editing window to paint on the sky, and on waves, and moving objects. This would say "don't use these CPs."
Yes I agree, but be aware that there is 2 kind of masks at least :
- mask that says, don't put control point here
- mask that says, don't use this pixel for the blending
In the above case with multi focal blending, if we paint transparency directly before stitch, we cannot stitch anymore the panorama because the detailed zone on the ground from 70 mm would be transparent. But we need them to make the detection but not for the blending.
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AlexandreJ wrote:
I agree with you hankkarl. We are working on a blender that will use this focal length different to first keep the one from the longest focal.
The solution for the moment is either render several layer, one per focal then, blend manually in photoshop, or paint transparency. I did that once for a gigapixels :
70mm for the sky and 200mm everywhere else. The order of operation is important :
1. Detect the panorama ( jpeg in entry for example )
2. Convert the 70mm into png format, paint the ground transparent so the ground is forced to come from 200mm images
3. Replace in the .pano file the .jpg by .png for the image you edit
4. Render
It works really well ( if you don't forget to shoot some zone at 200 mm, I did this mistake ).
Just thought--can you start with PNG, then edit PNG for transparance, then render? you don't have to edit the pano file if you can do that.
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AlexandreJ wrote:
Yes I agree, but be aware that their is 2 kinds of mask at least :
- mask that says, don't put control point here
- mask that says, don't use this pixel for the blending
My first guess is that the mask that says "Don't put control point here" could be done in the pano editor on all pictures for sky and waves, but has to be done on each picture for tourist removal.
And the mask that says "don't use this point for blending" must be done on each picture.
It may be good to have a mask that says "prefer this pixel-but don't use it for blending" for tourist insertion and selecting one image of the sky, waves, etc.
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hankkarl wrote:
Just thought--can you start with PNG, then edit PNG for transparance, then render? you don't have to edit the pano file if you can do that.
I though of that too but PNG don't store metadata and we'll lose EXIF which is problematic for detection.
We should use a format that support metadata and transparency like TIFF.
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Just to say i have had great success using the method outlined by alex in post #9 of this thread, see this thread in the gallery for a little more info: http://www.autopano.net/forum/t6498-gigapixel,of-death
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At the moment I thinking about and investigating another approach. I would like to know if other have experiences with it.
I make the photos for a 360*180 pano using a 10 mm fisheye. Horizontal rotation of 60 degrees.
After making the needed photos (2 rows plus two shots down) I change the lens to a 50 mm lens and make one round using 10 degrees steps (36 photos).
I stitch the first photos together into a 360 *180 pano.
I then load the 36 other photos and add the pano I just generates. I tell autopano to include all photos in the pano.
Autopano then places the 36 photos on top of the pano and does so rather well.
Like to hear some comments on this
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HansKeesom wrote:
At the moment I thinking about and investigating another approach. I would like to know if other have experiences with it.
I make the photos for a 360*180 pano using a 10 mm fisheye. Horizontal rotation of 60 degrees.
After making the needed photos (2 rows plus two shots down) I change the lens to a 50 mm lens and make one round using 10 degrees steps (36 photos).
I stitch the first photos together into a 360 *180 pano.
I then load the 36 other photos and add the pano I just generates. I tell autopano to include all photos in the pano.
Autopano then places the 36 photos on top of the pano and does so rather well.
Like to hear some comments on this
So how do you have a way to mask out the parts made with the 10 mm fisheye or do you assume/know that APG uses the file with the most data preferentially or even averages them? From what Alexandre has already said previously, one shouldn't be able to stitch fisheye with rectilinear images in one pano!
But you say it works! What do you think is happening to the detail? If you stitch just the 50mm images in a separate pano, do you see the same detail in these areas or is it superior to the one blended with the 10mm fisheyes stitched underlay of images?
Asher
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Hi Asher,
At the moment I am more concentrating on getting pano's made from only 10 mm fisheye photo's a lot better. There is lot to be done there.
But I added to my tasklist that after I have quality of the above top notch I will have a look to what adding a row of 50 mm photos can bring me. I will have to compare it to what I can do with 10 mm fisheye now, which is much better then it was last summer.
Will post the results here.
cheers,
Hans
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