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I'm having trouble with autopano pro, autopano giga (alpha), and autostitch. None of them are able to correctly stitch certain types of images (though giga works better than the others). I make 360-degree panoramas of real estate interiors (17mm focal length on full-frame, 8 exposures per pano, evenly spaced, using a nodal-corrected pano head on a tripod). The software works fine outdoors or when there is plenty of detail, but when it has to stitch 2 blank walls, for example, it just can't do it. It produces a garbled mess or skips the blank walls entirely.
I've been using Panorama Factory for years and it always works correctly (I can input my settings: 8 shots cylindrical @17mm).
Is there any way to make autopano or autostitch work under these conditions? Is there a way to tell the software what setup I use (it's always the same).
I have found autopano pro to be great overall, and very easy to use, but this will be a deal-breaker...
Last edited by jodaboda (2009-02-13 00:52:09)
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This is the white wall issue with little details. In the next version, we'll have an better solution for that because you will be able to tell to autopano that it's a single row panorama. It will use this information to force a little the stitch and get a result.
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Bits of tape.
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rhy7s wrote:
Bits of tape.
JEP!! 
simple and clever. Works great and is removable without a trace . . 
I always have some small black gaffer-tape in my camera-bag.
Four small stickies usually are doing well enough.
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2009-03-10 00:35:39)
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I once used cheap laser pointer with + sign (custom cut) & taped it to cast the small image on to wall, it was taped to another stand which kept it stationary within 2 shots, then I moved it to next shot position on to the wall.
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Tape yes, blue tack yes, now a laser is new 
Gordon
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you will never have problems with stitching issues when you prepare the room a lil bit
PostIt - it's easier to remove ...
laser pointer:
a little gorilla pod is a small and very flexible setup 
Last edited by Paul (2009-03-10 09:54:13)
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Gordon wrote:
Tape yes, blue tack yes, now a laser is new
Gordon
I actually landed up in a place where roof & wall were high & could not be tapped & found a good use of laser there. I was inspired with canon 580 flash which emits beam for focus assist in pitch dark situation & hep the camera lock focus.
There could be many situations where laser pointer will be quite useful.
1. high roof/walls
2. paint might come off
3. tape & wall may be of same color.
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Hi!
I think about this idea:
Simply edit the images in a image editor (even paintbrush) and put on the images some red points.
So, instead jumping to the wall physically man can stick the points or crosses, or anything you want in some places on already made image.
Then after rendering remove it from rendered scene.
The problem can be to place the pixels in correct place on the images.
Did you already try it?
Regards
Pstryk
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Pstryk wrote:
The problem can be to place the pixels in correct place on the images.
Did you already try it?
One can use a PanoTools GUI (Hugin, PTassembler or PTgui) to place control points and then use Autopano Import feature to optimize and stitch this pano (through this is presently limited to APP and not working when using APG alpha or beta.)
Because the project files (.pano) syntax is quite straighforward, it should be easy to add new "manual CPs" coordinates in a .pano file.
Problem: when CPs are set "manually", 10 CPs for an image pair is a lot of CPs while, as a rule, Autopano finds a much larger number of them. As far as I know, like PanoTools optimizers do, APP optimizer tends to more or less "neglect" the links having a small number of CPs and to "over-optimize" the links having a large number of CPs. If I'm right, adding a small number of CPs in some links would require controlling the number of CPs in the other links...
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