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Mac OSX 10.5.5, APP V1.4.2 Default settings for edit and render.
Nodal Ninja, 28mm(35mm Eq)
Bracketed Multi row: 20@0û, 10@45û, 10@-45û, 1 zenith, 1 nadir, 1 nadir patch
Help!
I've shot 7 panoramas and must have them stitched by the end of next week. They are to go into a touch screen in a Museum launched on Monday the 8th. I have spent several days trying to learn to stitch in APP and have had only a little success getting a sharp image without stitching artifacts.
I've been shooting VR since the days of Apples MPW command line editing tools but most of my experience is with cylindrical and or cubic shot with a full frame fisheye. I shoot very carefully and have a good set of digital shots. I was encouraged by the idea that APP could handle longer focal lengths.
I just can't progress. I get a nice looking preview and then after render (And particularly in a VR player), only then notice gaps in the stitching. They are not big but are on obvious places such as frame edges or wall cornices or tile joins etc. I get very confused with how to manually fix these as I have a lot of images (126) on three layers, I don't know what to adjust. I'm also now worried about time, after every manual correction there is a stressful delay while the program renders a preview.
Is there a way to tell the program that the shots are made with a dedicated head and camera that where carefully leveled/aligned?
I'm going to have to find someone to stitch these for me unless I can get help. Can someone recommend a service?
I would like to purchase a detailed manual if available?
I've attached a shot of the control point editor a finished cubic movie and close-ups.
I would welcome some sage advice at this stage.
Anything along the lines of, "shoot it again with a super wide lens", or "try another stitcher" is what I'm thinking:(
Thank you for your help.
Cheers,
Scott
Last edited by scottWb (2008-11-30 07:49:03)
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APP forum member DrSlony might stitch them for you as a service:
http://www.autopano.net/forum/profile.php?id=1426
Last edited by mediavets (2008-11-30 09:27:54)
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Did you watch rami's tutorial about control points editor?
http://www.autopano.net/wiki/action/vie … _panoramas
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fma38 wrote:
Did you watch rami's tutorial about control points editor?
http://www.autopano.net/wiki/action/vie … _panoramas
Hi,
Yes I have watched the tutorial and it was very helpful.
Since my post I have been having better success, the images are sharp, still miss-aligned in many small instances, but I can live with this and clean up in post, till I get better control of the manual process.
cheers,
Scott
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Hi Scott,
Looking at your screenshot and description of shooting technique and description of stitch problems- some comments:
1. I suspect your camera/lens is not set quite accurately at NPP.
2. I think you shot more images in each row than is necessary to achieve adequate overlaps and hence APP found links between images over and above links between neighbouring images - ie. too great an overlap may have resulted in many redundant links.
3. Did you really need bracketing? Bracketing will complicate stitching and post processing. If you are a novice with APP (or stitching multi-row panos with any stitcher) starting off doing indoor panos using bracketed shots with a relatively long focal length lens on a time critical project seems like making a rod for your own back. You picked the most challenging sort of pano shooting to cut your teeth on!
4. For a kiosk application I doubt you need greater resolution than could have been achieved far more easily using say a fullframe FE lens (for example a Tokina 10-17mm zoom FE if using a cropped sensor Nikon or Canon DSLR, or Nikkor 10.5mm FE in on a Nikon DX cropped sensor camera) . Many fewer shots would be required for 360x180 coverage and hence the whole process would have been much easier to handle.
5. APP V2 promises features ('stacks') that will help stitch bracketed image sets - but that's for the (near) future.
6. There are several approaches to stitching bracketed image sets. Many users feel that is best to process/blend/whatever the bracketed images for each shooting position before stitching.
7. If you plan to do a lot more of these panos then check out the Merlin + Papywizard motorised pano head system.
I'm glad you are now getting results you can live with for your current project and I hope you stick with APP - IMO it is the finest pano stitcher around and V2 will be even better.
Last edited by mediavets (2008-11-30 11:29:53)
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Hi Scott,
Not many DSLR have a 1.25 crop factor, you may have something like EOS 1D Mark III with aspect ratio 3/2. I guess that you shooted in portrait mode. Can you confirm and give more info : lens, NN3 or NN5, checked your NPP accuracy...
With 35mm equivalent focale in portrait mode, field of view is 54.4° horizontal, 37.8° vertical. So I agree with mediavets : overlapping in a row of 52% is not necessary, 15 or 18 shots in a row is enough. Indoor pano (some area without detail, similarity on repeated texture on wall or floor) often show as a bit difficult.
On the contrary, shooting in a column at 0°, +45°, -45° makes vertical overlapping around 17%, too low I think. You have CPs only on edges of picture. Is your lens accurate with low geometric distortion? Did you correct distortion before (PTLens, DxO Optics...)?
I am part of the users waiting the next APP/APG v.2 to try stack concept for bracketed pano. With v1.4.2, I prefer process the bracketed sources before detection/stitching the resulting pictures with APP.
I would suggest you first experiment your pano with the 0 EV set, see if you have far links between non adjacent images: when I see your screen shot with so many links in same row, I guess you have. Check them, maybe it's only few CPs on extreme edges, maybe APP was a bit confused by similar texture area. Delete the far links that tend to increase 'tension' between pictures and re-optimize.
Also search in APP forum, there are other examples of indoor pano showung similar problem that yours.
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mediavets wrote:
APP forum member DrSlony might stitch them for you as a service:
http://www.autopano.net/forum/profile.php?id=1426
Ehehe sure why not ;]
Bracketed Multi row: 20@0�, 10@45�, 10@-45�, 1 zenith, 1 nadir, 1 nadir patch
To get a degree symbol in Windows, use alt+248. In Linux/KDE it's alt+shift+0.
28mm @ 35mm equiv is around 18mm, right? Which is what I have. I shoot more or less like this, it of course depends on the scenery:
9 in yaw every 40° at pitch -45°
9 in yaw every 40° but all are offset by 20° at pitch 0° or +10°
and now either 9 in yaw every 40° at pitch +60°, or sometimes yaw every 90° but then the pitch +10° shots should be pitch +20° or so.
I use the yaw 90° version whenever there is a plain sky since I know I won't get any control points between those shots anyway, so I might as well shoot less and spend less time manually moving shots into place.
Offsetting the middle row by 20° gives me a pattern like this:
x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x
-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-
x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x
This gives me panos of around 21 000 x 11 000 pixels which I almost always render as 15 000 x 7 500.
How big do you need your panos to be? I assume something like 8000 x 4000 will be more than enough for a kiosk display. Point here is that although your panos will never be flawless, scaling the result down masks some of the errors. The rest are fixed in post-processing.
marco-pano wrote about focal length, see point 3 here to let APP calculate it for itself (and maybe give you a better result):
http://www.autopano.net/forum/p33467-20 … -59#p33467
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DrSlony wrote:
mediavets wrote:
APP forum member DrSlony might stitch them for you as a service:
http://www.autopano.net/forum/profile.php?id=1426Ehehe sure why not ;]
Bracketed Multi row: 20@0°, 10@45°, 10@-45°, 1 zenith, 1 nadir, 1 nadir patch
To get a degree symbol in Windows, use alt+248. In Linux/KDE it's alt+shift+0.
28mm @ 35mm equiv is around 18mm, right? Which is what I have. I shoot more or less like this, it of course depends on the scenery:
9 in yaw every 40° at pitch -45°
9 in yaw every 40° but all are offset by 20° at pitch 0° or +10°
and now either 9 in yaw every 40° at pitch +60°, or sometimes yaw every 90° but then the pitch +10° shots should be pitch +20° or so.
I use the yaw 90° version whenever there is a plain sky since I know I won't get any control points between those shots anyway, so I might as well shoot less and spend less time manually moving shots into place.
Offsetting the middle row by 20° gives me a pattern like this:
x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x
-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-
x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x-x
This gives me panos of around 21 000 x 11 000 pixels which I almost always render as 15 000 x 7 500.
How big do you need your panos to be? I assume something like 8000 x 4000 will be more than enough for a kiosk display. Point here is that although your panos will never be flawless, scaling the result down masks some of the errors. The rest are fixed in post-processing.
marco-pano wrote about focal length, see point 3 here to let APP calculate it for itself (and maybe give you a better result):
http://www.autopano.net/forum/p33467-20 … -59#p33467
Yes it was shot with an 18mm, thanks for the useful advice, I will try this method.
cheers,
Scott
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