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Hi all!
I need help, PLEASE.
Do you know how stick 3 shots made with slant system http://www.novoflex.com/de/produkte/pan … tem-slant/ in APG?
Image: http://www.shoteye.pl/3shots.png
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Can you make originals available, so I can try and later explain? the strip you gave is a bit small
Last edited by HansKeesom (2012-06-22 19:14:51)
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HansKeesom wrote:
Can you make originals available, so I can try and later explain? the strip you gave is a bit small
I recognise that image set - you can get it here:
http://www.agnos.com/dati/download/samp … oth_hi.zip
Here's my quick stitch:
Last edited by mediavets (2012-06-22 19:49:56)
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Manix wrote:
Hi all!
I need help, PLEASE.
Do you know how stick 3 shots made with slant system http://www.novoflex.com/de/produkte/pan … tem-slant/ in APG?
Image: http://www.shoteye.pl/3shots.png
Welcome to the forum...
I recognise that image set. It is a sample image set available from the Agnos web site.
It was shot using the Agnos MrotatorC pano head using a Nikon D70 and a Sigma 8mm fisheye lens.
Here's an outline of how to stitch these images that have very small overlaps and hence challenge the APP/APG automatic control point detection system. It's a good exercise to stitch these 'slanted' image sets because it will demand that you learn how to use several features of APP/APG especially the Panorama Efitor and Control Point Editor.
1. The images lack EXIF data so you have to manually enter appropriate values in the Image properties for the group - screenshot 1.
2. Then you need carefully to adjust/set the crop circle - screenshot 2.
3. Adjust Group settings for the group - setting Detection quality to High, and Preferred Projection to Spherical, and Prefered Extend to maximum projectiion range, and Layout to single row or Column - screenshots 3 and 4.
4. Open the stitched pano in the Panorama Editor and inspect the links in the Control Point Editor - if there are missing links such that each of the image does not have links to its neighbours then create the missing links and optimise again. If there are poor quality links then edit the control points and re-optimise to improve link quality.
5. Finally re-orientate the pano by using the Vanishing point tool to locate the nadir at the centre of the pano, followed by the Yaw/Pitch/Roll tool adjusting the pitch by 90 degree steps until the orientation is correct - screenshot 5.
6. Render the pano.
...........
I have to say that in my opinion it's not worth the added complexity of stitching these 'slanted' images sets for the sake of shooting one less image (position).
Shooting 4-around using the same camera/lens combination in standard portrait orientation with a small positive pitch using a conventional two-axis pano head (such as the Nodal Ninja 3, 4 or M series) or a ring type pano head (such as the Nodal Ninja R-series) produces an image set that has larger overlaps and hence is much easier to stitch and does not require reorientation of the pano image to corrcet the 'slant'. The small positive pitch will ensure coverage at the zenith and the 'hole' at the nadir will be no larger than the rotator footrpint' of a NN pano head rotator.
Last edited by mediavets (2012-06-22 20:24:09)
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mediavets wrote:
HansKeesom wrote:
Can you make originals available, so I can try and later explain? the strip you gave is a bit small
I recognise that image set - you can get it here:
http://www.agnos.com/dati/download/samp … oth_hi.zip
Here's my quick stitch:
That's true. The shots are from Agnos. I want to buy the Slant system and I don't know how to connect shots in APG. Can I make it in APG?
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Manix wrote:
That's true. The shots are from Agnos. I want to buy the Slant system and I don't know how to connect shots in APG. Can I make it in APG?
Perhaps you didn't spot my posts before you posted your message?
I have just demonstrated that you can stitch image sets like these with APP/APG, and outlined the workflow I used to do it.
I first came across those sample image sets on the Agnos Web site when I was starting out with APP. I used to search the Web for sample image sets and attempt to stitch them; any images sets, I didn't care about the subject, or the camera/lens used to shoot them, the variety was part of the 'fun'.
At one time I thought I wanted an Agnos MrotatorC 'slant' pano head, but I changed my mind and got a Nodal Ninja 5L. In my opinion it's not worth shooting these 'slanted' image sets, the advantage of shooting slightly fewer images to cover 360x180 is offset by the greater complexity of stitching and processing the images. I think you'd be better off with a more conventional pano head.
What camera and len(es) do you have available for shooting panos?
Why did you think you wanted a Slant head rather than a more conventional two-axis or ring-style pano head?
Last edited by mediavets (2012-06-22 20:41:42)
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Thanks you andrew for being so fast.
hmmmm, 3 shots and a decent pano. Add a nadir shot and you are done.
But you think it is not worth it quality and processing wise? the three shots did not too bad and it makes sense cause with nodal ninja you have so much overlap around zenith and nadir..
Last edited by HansKeesom (2012-06-22 22:29:13)
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HansKeesom wrote:
Thanks you andrew for being so fast.
hmmmm, 3 shots and a decent pano. Add a nadir shot and you are done.
Did you try stitching this image set and some of the other 3-slant image sets on the Agno's web site?
http://www.agnos.com/samples.htm?v_ling … SD03-M0302
Some are shot with the three camera MrotatorR pano head some with single camera MrotatorC pano head.
But you think it is not worth it quality and processing wise? the three shots did not too bad and it makes sense cause with nodal ninja you have so much overlap around zenith and nadir..
Once you have setup your tripod and so on, how much longer does it take to shoot 4-around compared to 3-around?
And stitching 4-around shot in normal portait orientation is quicker and easier.
Hans Nyberg has also demonstrated that the 3-slant shot technique results in poorer image quality because of where and how the overlaps occur in the central zone of the pano image.
But if you have a suitable camera/fisheye lens combination (which offers approz. 180 FOV on the long axis of the sensor) and wish to try the 'slant' technique then I feel that the Nodal Ninja R-series ring mounts offer a more versatile pano head than the SlantVR from Novoflex, because the NNR-x can be used to shoot in normal portrait orientation or slant.
With some fullframe sensor bodies and 'shaved' fisheyes you can get the same coverage with 3-around in normal portrait orientation too; this Canon 5D + shaved Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye was briefly popular before Canon-mount fisheyes of this type were available, but I think you could get a more compatible combo now using Nikon or Canon fullframe bodies and lenses from Nikon and Sigma and Tokina.
http://chenonceau.fromparis.com/technic … on-5d.html
Last edited by mediavets (2012-06-23 09:15:19)
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Manix wrote:
Hi all!
I need help, PLEASE.
Do you know how stick 3 shots made with slant system http://www.novoflex.com/de/produkte/pan … tem-slant/ in APG?
Image: http://www.shoteye.pl/3shots.png
Ooops...I've just noticed the title of your original post.
You mention the Samyang 8mm f3.5 fisheye lens.
If you are planning to use this on a cropped sensor camera body then you cannot get anything like 360x180 coverage in 3 shots. You could only produce a 368x180 pano in 3 shots using the Samyang 8mm if using it 'shaved' (with the lens hood removed) on a fullframe sensor body, as described in the 'Recommended camera-/lens combinations' section of the VR-system Slant product description:
http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/pan … tem-slant/
The Samyang is fullframe fisheye lens, a very different lens to the Sigma 8mm f3.5 fisheye lens which produces a 'cropped circular' image on a cropped-sensor camera, with 180 degree FOV on the long axis of the sensor on a Nikon DX body (as in that Agno's sample image set), and a little less on a Canon cropped sensor body.
You need a conventional two-axis pano head to shoot 360x180 spherical panos with the Samyang 8mm f3.5 fisheye - something like the Nodal Ninja 3 or 4 series - on a cropped sensor body.
Last edited by mediavets (2012-06-23 09:14:15)
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I asked because I have tested the samyang with an old 1d which has 1.3 factor. 4 shots were enough to get everything except for small holes nadir and zenith. This works rather faster then with my normal 1.6 factor camera
With a bit of slanting the zenith would be fixed. The nadir would not much improve anymore I guess and a logo on it would not mind in the situations where I would use the 1D for.
I dont think slanting would help to get me to 3 shots with the 1D, 4 is low enough for situations where speed is asked.
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HansKeesom wrote:
I asked because I have tested the samyang with an old 1d which has 1.3 factor. 4 shots were enough to get everything except for small holes nadir and zenith. This works rather faster then with my normal 1.6 factor camera
With a bit of slanting the zenith would be fixed. The nadir would not much improve anymore I guess and a logo on it would not mind in the situations where I would use the 1D for.
I dont think slanting would help to get me to 3 shots with the 1D, 4 is low enough for situations where speed is asked.
I'm sorry if I may have unintentionally mislead you.
The original post in this topic showed an image set which I knew was shot with a Nikon D70 and the Sigma 8mm fisheye on the Agnos MrotatorC 'slant-style' pano head designed specifically to shoot a spherical pano in 3 shots with that camera/lens combination.
However the title of the topic refers to the Samyang 8mm f3.5 fisheye lens, a fact I only noticed much later in the discussion, and you cannot shoot a spherical pano with just 3 shots using that lens on a cropped sensor body.
Last edited by mediavets (2012-06-23 09:17:16)
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