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Source Files
http://www.victorlinphoto.com/downloads/SourceFiles.zip
These are shot on a Nodal Ninja set as close to the Nodal Point as possible.
Here is the AutoPano Giga 2.5.0 Output - lots of ugly breaks
http://www.victorlinphoto.com/downloads/AutoPano.jpg
Here is the Panorama Factory Output - very hard to detect any breaks
http://www.victorlinphoto.com/downloads … actory.jpg
What's going on? How do I get AutoPano to look as good as Panorama Factory? Both are set at 11mm (Tokina 11-16mm) on a 1.5x D300 body.
Last edited by DrSlony (2012-01-15 03:16:25)
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fuzzybabybunny wrote:
Source Files
http://www.victorlinphoto.com/downloads/SourceFiles.zip
These are shot on a Nodal Ninja set as close to the Nodal Point as possible.
Here is the AutoPano Giga 2.5.0 Output - lots of ugly breaks
http://www.victorlinphoto.com/downloads/AutoPano.jpg
Here is the Panorama Factory Output - very hard to detect any breaks
http://www.victorlinphoto.com/downloads … actory.jpg
What's going on? How do I get AutoPano to look as good as Panorama Factory? Both are set at 11mm (Tokina 11-16mm) on a 1.5x D300 body.
APG uses an extremely sensitive cp search. You need to optimize. Using an exactly aligned head/camera/lens setup it´s fast and easy.
To be honest: in terms of color-/light rendering the APG-pano definitely is better.
Are you sure having found the exact NPP for your setup?
best, Klaus
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sorry - doublette
Last edited by klausesser (2012-01-15 02:18:35)
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here´s an interesting comparing of an APG and a PTGui stitch/render:
http://www.klausesser.de/APG.jpg two times optimized
http://www.klausesser.de/PT.jpg one time optimized
best, Klaus
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As Klaus hinted, your gear is misaligned.
If you want to salvage this pano, you can do two things:
1- also as Klaus said, manually check all links and optimize
2- use soft blending. Use one of the following in the Render window:
a- Blending Presets - Simple
b- Anti-Ghost with Blending set to Linear
c- Anti-Ghost with Multiband Level set to 0 and, if I recall correctly, Cutting not ticked.
Point 2 won't fix the misalignment but will mask the errors, point 1 will fix the misalignment probably at the cost of breaking less important areas, e.g. blank wall. Try both.
ps. I was wondering why my browser is having a heart attack. You displayed inline two huge over 50 megapixel images. Bad idea. Good thing I didn't open this page on my smartphone. In the future please don't include them in [ img ] tags, but in [ url ] ones.
I edited that for you, hope you don't mind.
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No need to 'salvage' this pano, the sourcefiles render just fine. After 15min in APG adding and removing CP's and activating Mulitle viewpoints there are almost no stitching errors visible. See:
http://www.ronaldtichelaar.nl/fuzzybabybunny/pano.html
and:
http://www.ronaldtichelaar.nl/fuzzybabybunny/pano.jpg
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I also tried to stitch your pictures with Autopano Pro 2.6 and in my opinion the result is good without any optimization:
http://h2o.doesntexist.com/DSC_1215_ble-8%20images.jpg
All settings at default, Focal Length set to 11mm.
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This panorama does run flawlessly as soon as you have set the right focal length before detection : 11 mm in this case.
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AlexandreJ wrote:
This panorama does run flawlessly as soon as you have set the right focal length before detection : 11 mm in this case.
Well - of course i did set it to 11mm manually . . . ![]()
The EXIFs read 16,77.
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2012-01-16 10:48:36)
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Klaus, this sample here is totally not comparabled with the previous one ( 2 step optimization : in this previous one, you can clearly see that the focal was wrong, curve not aligned ).
Here, you still have 2 small issues that could be easily fixed with 2 zones cp adding actions.
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I'm confuse. I'm setting APG for 11mm and the D300 body, so my focal settings are correct. And it's still giving me those breaks in the Pano. I'm also looking for a more streamlined way of doing things. Panorama Factory takes the photos and stitches them almost perfectly without any need for control point editing and seems pretty forgiving of nodal point issues (even though I think I've got it dailed in exactly and the gear gets tossed around a lot). I would like to give APG a chance because I like the UI better and the batch processing, but it keeps on giving me those breaks in the panos.
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fuzzybabybunny wrote:
I'm confuse. I'm setting APG for 11mm and the D300 body, so my focal settings are correct. And it's still giving me those breaks in the Pano. I'm also looking for a more streamlined way of doing things. Panorama Factory takes the photos and stitches them almost perfectly without any need for control point editing and seems pretty forgiving of nodal point issues (even though I think I've got it dailed in exactly and the gear gets tossed around a lot). I would like to give APG a chance because I like the UI better and the batch processing, but it keeps on giving me those breaks in the panos.
By default APG 2.5 will assume that a lens with a focal length of 11mm is a fisheye.
Did you change the lens type to Standard in the Image settings?
It makes quite a difference as you can see in this screenshot - you'll probably also get a still better result with 2.6 because that has been further optimised to handle images shot with super wide angle standard/rectilinear lenses such as the Tokina 11-16mm:
Last edited by mediavets (2012-01-17 21:55:24)
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