what is a "QRP-holder"?
does your image show an example for 1 or 2?

Georg


EDIT: ok quick release plate - holder...

EDIT2: I've this ballhead in use (since few days only..) and I use it to fix my merlin on the ballhead... the B-3 plate is compatible with the B-4 head...
http://www.foto-tip.pl/sklep/triopo_b_4 … -2117.html

on my merlin itself I mount my Canon as shown in your image directly to the rail...

Last edited by gkaefer (2011-05-21 18:43:14)

Arca swiss

would be great

Henrik

Maybe I misunderstood the question.

The dove-trail system initially designed by Arca Swiss, and later replicated by others, such as ReallyRightStuff, Kirk and many others.

I think between Manfrotto and the arca swiss style, they cover the majority of the market. Manfrotto more so the mainstream and Arca the higher-end, to me coming from Manfrotto to AS system via ReallyRightStuff, it offered me a better stability and I think the plates cand clamps are better and easier to work with. I am not so much a fan for the quick release, but prefer the screw in, because if you have people with slightly different plates you can still make it work.

I suppose from a manufacturing point of you, you and josef would be better off, just offering the straight screw, but it would be nice if there was the option to either add your own choice of clamp.

What Makes the Arca plates special? Its that same special feel you get when you drive in your BMW or Merc ;-) knowing that it all just works really well.

Henrik

PS: there also seem to be some imitation of the arca swiss system from china floating around on ebay atm.

the ebay option for less http://stores.ebay.com.au/photo-shop-st … 2608676011

Thanks, men! Never dealt with that . . I never used CRPs on any of my cameras. One reason i was asking is: there´re some plates providing a "lip" for exactly aligning the body. That´s fine of course.

best to you, Klaus

Last edited by klausesser (2011-05-22 16:49:40)

klausesser wrote:

Thanks, men! Never dealt with that . . I never used CRPs on any of my cameras. One reason i was asking is: there´re some plates providing a "lip" for exactly aligning the body. That´s fine of course.

best to you, Klaus

I'm using one of these now on my Nodal Ninja 5L head. It is designed for use with cameras with offset tripod mounts but works very nicely with a DSLR too.

http://store.nodalninja.com/products/T- … ffset.html

Better than their CP-2 I think because there is a larger camera body mounting surface and the two adjustable 'stops' offer more resistance to twisting than the smaller lip on the CP-2. Cheap too, at least in the US.

Combined with the adjustable rail stop it makes it simple to mount/remount the camera in a highly reproducible fashion on the upper arm of the NN5.

I would like to get a rail made to allow me to use it with the Merlin.

How about you just have a screw mount, but allocate some room for people who are using camera plates.

One of the nice features of some of the AS style plates is the lip, the alignment markers on the plates, on some specific to your particular camera model. It is a more expensive option.

What is good about the AS and perhaps special is that you can get longer camera and lens plates which allows you to move the camera into the NP position, if different from default. Also it seems a relative easier solution for DIY people, if you look at the diagram I have in one of my links above.

The Manfrotto plates are cheap with is a very good point, but they can also break very easily, $20-30 for a plate or less vs AS plates which are around $60+ but I have never heard of anyone breaking their plates and considering that you could be placing $10-20k of gear onto this plate, I know which solution I will be using.

Given that one will want to use what they currently have, i think an open system will be the best and also easier for you guys (You and Josef)

I use an L-bracket on my own camera so I can change rotation from landscape to portrait without losing my opsition to the subject, this to me was the ticket into the AS system.

Each to their own, I have put forward a suggestion, but I say give us choice ;-)

Henrik

PS: Even the Merlin has a dove-tail, though different to AS, but it is still usable for AS, but because of the rounded corners it cou cause a smaller plate to slip.

Last edited by tived (2011-05-23 01:02:39)

mediavets wrote:

Combined with the adjustable rail stop it makes it simple to mount/remount the camera in a highly reproducible fashion . . .

Right - that´s the way to go i mean!

best, Klaus

Hello Klaus,

I guess the best way to make your system as universal as possible is to have both standard screw sizes. Each shooter can choose his mount to match his style or what he already has. My preference is for the http://www.manfrotto.com/category/8709.0.0.0.0/Video plate from Manfrotto. Very large camera surface and dual bubble levels. It is however made for the 3/8 tripod mount.
Taking pre- orders? :-)
Christian
Montreal

caretaker360 wrote:

Question about the Merlin/Jolie head.
I needed a quick solution for motorized head, the fellows at Kolor were real cool and got me one a.s.a.p.
It will get the job done but I was quite disappointed in the quality.

The Merlin/Panogear mount is a low cost Chinese made astro-telescope mount. The Chinese factory QA is far from exemplary.

- I had to remount the bubble level to make it true.

I have two Merlin mounts - neither supplied by Kolor - and on delivery the bubble levels had barely any liquid in them. I wouldn't take to much notice of that level. Fit another, or remount as you did. While you are at it make sure the base of the bubble level is opaque (put some tape over it if not) to avoid bright light leaking through and disrupting the operation of the optical encoders.

- Even with a small camera (Nikon D7000) there is a tilt that needs to be corrected so I can not use the the rig without a camera quick release that I need to "shim" with .8 mm to make the camera perfectly level.

I doubt that 0.8mm 'tilt would affect stitching at all.

- Last but not least, I have always been working with a Manfrotto head that allowed me to center the camera in pivot point. This will never be possible with the Panogear. Infinity shots should not be an issue, but shooting in a car ....

The Merlin/Panogear mount was not designed as a robotic pano head (it was designed as an astro-telecope mount)  but it offers exceptional 'bang for your buck' when used as one with Paywizard control software or the Panogear/T&C touch controller.

That said there are also some limitations which arise from its astro-telescope 'heritage'.  Some modification of the dovetail mount and rail will be required for larger camera bodies if you wish/need to mount the camera at the No Parallax Point (NPP).  More precisely, if the dimension from the camera base to the centre of the lens mount (and/or the diameter of the lens barrel) is greater than 40mm, then you will need to modify the dovetail clamp and/or rail to mount the camera/lens in portrait orientation at the NPP.

Many user have modified the dovetail clamp and rail to enable the mounting of their camera/lens at the NPP in portrait orientation. You can see some these here:
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/action/ … s_feedback

But a robotic pano head really comes into its own when shooting panos with longer focal length lenses comprising many tens or hundreds of images. These are typically partial panos of relatively distant scenes where it not necessary to mount the camera/lens at the NPP.

Was I just a bit unlucky and got a lemon or am I too demanding?

In my opinion, you are too demanding.

If I push a bit and mount my D3x and a 300 mm, I expect to have to shim more :-(

I guess you'll being using such a combination mounted in landscape orientation and shooting partial panos of relatively distant scenes? In this case mounting at the NPP is irrelevant. With such heavy gear it's more important that you mount the camera/lens close to the centre of mass than at the NPP.

*** just a few questions, not a complaint :-)  if I wanted absoult there is the great Clauss at something like 5k €

Quite.  If you have deep pockets then the Seitz Roundshot VR2 and the Clauss Rodeon heads have their attractions.

But Merlin/Panogear offers unrivalled price-performance.

caretaker360 wrote:

Thanks for the insight !

I think you should be able to mount your D7000 and a Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye lens, or a 35mm DX, or a 50mm D lens - for those shoots inside cars - at the NPP (without a QR plate) in portrait orientation with just some simple modification to the rail.

A simple rail made from wood for example may offer sufficient additional clearance, like this:

http://www.kolor.com/forum/p37570-2009- … 570#p37570

btw.: here´s a Nadir-image taken with the 35mm Nikon on a 5D2L

best, Klaus