Not possible using the click stops. if we assume a 25% overlap, a 5 degree minimum click-stop means about 6.6 degree FOV, taken horizontally, that's about a 300mm lens 35mm equivilant, or on a 1.6x canon crop that would be no more than a 200mm lens.

for 360 degree FOV, a 500mm lens on a 1.6x crop body in landscape would require 186 images with a 25% overlap, so you either need a robotic head, or a manual head and a hell of alot of patience

Last edited by wjh31 (2010-09-28 19:15:17)

I have the same Manfrotto 303SPH head.  When I use a long focal length I capture images at the 5 degree click stops and also halfway between the click stops.  The exact position isn't important because AutoPano will match the images even if the angle isn't perfect, and with approximately 2.5 degrees between images there is plenty of overlap.

As pointed out above, this does require considerable patience.

wjh31 wrote:

@john_Sauter. A 500mm lens on a crop body has horizontal FOV of about 2.5 degrees in landscape, so even that would be really pushing it for this setup

I did that with a 20D and a 500mm mirror using the Manfrotto. Painted marks on the ring between the clickstops - not the "real thing" but works. You have to paint the marks precisely - and also have to match them exactly . .

It´s a compromise of course. There are some click-stop devices with narrower stops.

But indeed a motorized head works much better in such a case - the Merlin isn´t much more expensive than a good manual head!
I used the Merlin with a 300mm Nikon and a 500mm Nikon mirror-lens.

The Merlin isn´t slower in the end - it takes very much care to hit the markers when shooting manually.

Worked fine.

best, Klaus

mediavets wrote:

I'd say Merlin/Papywizard is less expensive than many of the better manual heads if you are willing to purchase the component parts of the system yourself.

Right!

best to you, Klaus

Marknot wrote:

Thanks to all, i will tray it... can you tell me how to calculate FOV?... the 2,5degree? it will be important form with other focal.
Thanks

http://www.howardedin.com/articles/fov.html

Marknot wrote:

i've to take only one point of view like this one that i make:

http://gigapan.org/gigapans/59275/

Did you think that i will have problem of nodal point at 500mm??!

No.

mediavets wrote:

Marknot wrote:

In this case if i've tha camera in the normal position ( horizontal ) witch degrees i need to follow? X or Y??

Thanks in advance...

You could use the Papywizard software running in simulation mode to estimate this.  Configure to match your camera, lens, orientation, and overlaps. Then run a simulated shoot of a small matrix of images and create a data file.

Look at the data file with a text editor to see the co-ordinates of the shooting positions and calculate the pitch and yaw separations between shooting positions.

http://www.papywizard.org

This may even persuade you to get a Merlin mount and do the job properly?!

Thanks to all for the help, i think on december i will buy the Gigapan epic pro... ( if i can )... but i need to search more things before buy a motorized head...
I hope this 3d help other people...

Marknot wrote:

http://gigapan.org/gigapans/59275/

When you geoposition a panorama on the Gigapan site - you may want to choose the actual location that the panorama was shot from (and not the location of the subject of the panorama).  If it is selected for Google Earth ... you will be able to fly into the panorama that will appear as a curved arc (appropriate for the size of the FOV) and then into the picture.  In fact - if the aerial photography and terrain data in Google Earth is detailed it will even interleave with your panorama ... some of mine have almost matched up perfectly with the Google Earth imagery.  Good Luck!
http://tinyurl.com/w1qagigapans