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Hello!
I've been using APP for a while, but not much yet with my new setup: Nikon d5000 w/ tamron 10-24mm (always at 10mm, 15mm equivalent). I use a nodal ninja III.
I've made a few panoramas in the forest and I've been surprised at how difficult they have been to stitch in APP. I've tried both 45- and 60-degree shot intervals (6 and 8 shots), 3 rows, +-45 degree angles and 0, with nadir and zenith. I've been using alpha channels to eliminate the tripod and head for those shots. I also shoot a separate nadir shot to "patch" the center of the head, again, using alpha channels to eliminate legs and/or tripod.
I have yet to see a global RMS lower than about 5, and most renders end up having errors/mis-alignments. The mis-alignments are no more or less likely to occur with the alpha-channeled images than among others.
What surprises me is that my subject matter is so complex that it would seem to provide many good control points to analyze, and yet I'm getting weak RMSs between even adjacent images.
Any tips? And please let me know of any specific screenshots that would be more helpful.
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chronopsis wrote:
Hello!
I've been using APP for a while, but not much yet with my new setup: Nikon d5000 w/ tamron 10-24mm (always at 10mm, 15mm equivalent). I use a nodal ninja III.
I've made a few panoramas in the forest and I've been surprised at how difficult they have been to stitch in APP. I've tried both 45- and 60-degree shot intervals (6 and 8 shots), 3 rows, +-45 degree angles and 0, with nadir and zenith. I've been using alpha channels to eliminate the tripod and head for those shots. I also shoot a separate nadir shot to "patch" the center of the head, again, using alpha channels to eliminate legs and/or tripod.
.............
Any tips? And please let me know of any specific screenshots that would be more helpful.
I wonder if you may not have too much overlap between images? 25-30% overlap is sufficinet.
This database suggests the follwing shooting patterns for some similar short focal length rectilinear lenses:
http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic/photogr … abase.html
Sigma 10-20mm at 10mm:
# Recommended (1.5x, 1.6x): N, 4 images every 90° at -60° pitch, 8 images every 45° at 0° pitch, 4 images every 90° at +60° pitch, no zenith image required
# Alternative (1.5x, 1.6x): N, 8 images every 45° at -30° pitch, 8 images every 45° at +30° pitch, Z
Sigma 12-24mm at 12mm:
Min. shots (1.5x, 1.6x): N, 8 images every 45° at -30° pitch, 8 images every 45° at +30°, Z
Excessive overlap can make stitching more difficult because you are more likely to get superfluous links between non-adjacent images.
While your pano scene may indeed have a lot of detail it also has rather similar detail in non-adjacent images so there may be some incorrect links in your stitch.
You can visualise the overlaps by Control-clicking on the numbers in Layers Mode:
Last edited by mediavets (2010-08-31 10:50:41)
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Thank you Andrew,
I had just come across that chart yesterday, and did some experiments indoors with that workflow. I'll try and do some outside today.
Thanks,
Pat
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Just shot some more tests out in the woods, using the N - 4@60 - 8@0 - 4@-60 - Z workflow (but adding a ground patch). I'm attempting to stitch the first one, but again getting several non-adjacent links.
Is it possible to prevent links between non-adjacent images? Or does one need to go through each image manually and delete those links?
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chronopsis wrote:
Just shot some more tests out in the woods, using the N - 4@60 - 8@0 - 4@-60 - Z workflow (but adding a ground patch). I'm attempting to stitch the first one, but again getting several non-adjacent links.
I believe that you don't need a Zenith image with this pattern; at least not according to the vrwave database.
Is it possible to prevent links between non-adjacent images?
No. But omitting your unnecessary zenith image may help. And most pano scenes, if shot using the appropriate pattern of shots, won't generate superfluous links.
Or does one need to go through each image manually and delete those links?
That's the way to do but it's really quite a quick process once you have the hang of it.
Have you seen this tutorial?:
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/action/ … _panoramas
Last edited by mediavets (2010-08-31 21:28:13)
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Thanks for your help, Andrew,
Thanks for the reminder about the zenith, I'll leave it out. My panos do seem to be working better now, and the control-point editing is getting easier. I make big prints from these, so I'm glad to keep my individual shots high in number.
Thanks again!
Last edited by chronopsis (2010-08-31 20:58:36)
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Two things came to my mind :
First of all make sure you have your nodal Ninja setup exactly right to make sure you have no parallax error.
Secondly, when you say "forest", I think "wind". Is there any wind blowing? Looking at the second image I see one leave in sunlight. On the third the same leave is not. This is suggesting there was a wind blowing.
Combining the above : Have you taken any pano's indoor of without any trees? Are they close to perfect?
Last edited by HansKeesom (2010-09-05 18:04:36)
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