Salut a toi,
Alors d'abord, je ne comprends pas comment les RMS peuvent être bons lorsque je vois ton rendu final (celui du bas) car pas un seul collage n'est bon ou beau, les murs sont de travers la porte aussi les placards n'en parlons pas... Quel type de pano essaies tu de faire ? Apparemment c'est un panorama cylindrique et non sphérique !? Je penses qu'il y a un problème au niveau du choix des paramètres (choix du type d'objectif, nombres d'images...) D'ailleurs combien d'images as tu en tout pour ta pano ?
Je te dis ça, ce n'est pas une critique mais lorsque je fais des panoramiques je n'obtiens que très rarement autant de bug dans ma pano or là y en a pas mal qu'en même
Détail peut être plus ce que tu utilise comme matériel et mets une capture d'écran de tes paramètres dans l'onglet préférences.
Ensuite voilà un lien qui moi m'a beaucoup aider au début pour comprendre les problèmes liés au matos, notamment les objectifs:

http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic/photogr … abase.html

J'espere que cela t'aidera et j'attends de te relire.
Cordialement,

Jools

essayez de poster vos captures d'écran en utilisant le système offert par le forum:
http://www.autopano.net/forum/t4428-pos … r-le-forum

pour revenir à votre problème, avez-vous appliqué une couche alpha pour masquer le trepieds?

lodo 3,

Try these patterns of shooting with your Nikkor 10.5mm fisyey on the D80:

1. Indoors - 6-around at -15 degrees pitch; and 6-around at +50 degrees pitch.

2. Outdoors - 6-around at -15 degrees pitch; and one-up at about +65 degrees pitch (optionally a second at +65 degrees pitch separated from the first by 120 degress yaw.)

These patterns will leave a small hole at the nadir no larger than the rotator on a Nodal Ninja pano head; you mat wyish to shhot a handheld nadir shot to cover this, or to edit it out, or to cover it with a nadir patch, or to limit the FOV in the player. You will get full coverage of the zenith but with a greater chance of getting good links that alternative patterns of shooting.

ludo3 wrote:

Hello, thanks for your advice mediavets. It was already what I was doing... But sometimes, it just doesn't work..
This time I think it should be easier.

C'est un peu toujours le même problème, et c'est vrai que c'est assez frustrant de voir son pano correct dans l'éditeur, mais lorsque l'on fait le rendu, des zones grises/blanches, pourtant couvertes dans le pano sous l'éditeur apparaissent..
Est ce que ça vous fait ça aussi? Est ce que vous avez une idée de pourquoi?

Cette fois tout mes rms sont bons, et je les ai vraiment vérifié à la main.
Je n'en ai qu'un seul de 5.88 et franchement je pense que ça devrait passer non?

Looking at your screenshots two things stand out:

1. The shooting pattern is nothing like either of those I suggested. I would never use a shooting pattern like that with my 10.5mm FE and a DX body. I think you are asking for trouble with such a pattern, especially trying to stitch in the nadir shots. In my opinion it is better to use one of the patterns I suggested and then edit/patch the nadir of the stitched pano in post-processing.

2. The screenshot of the rendered image shows artifacts - this gery/white zones - I've never experienced.

If you would like to make one of these troublesome image sets available for download via the Web (preferab;ly as a ZIP file) I'd like to take a look to see if I can figure out what may be going on.



.

ludo3 wrote:

I don't understand why you're saying that my shooting pattern is wrong...
I did exactly what i learnt in the tutorial and what i read on the forums, what am i doing wrong exactly?

Where did you get the idea that 8 around at zero pitch plus a zenith at +90 - plus 3 nadir shots was the optimum way to shoot a pano using a Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye lens on a Nikon DX body?

Which tutorial are you referring to?

I uploaded the images here. So you can have a look at them, and tell me what's wrong or what i don't do right in APG...
Thanks for your help mediaverts!

Looking at your images I have several comments:

1. Are you using a click-stop pano head. My guess is that you are not because your 8-around images are not evenly spaced and are not level. So what is you setup? A monopod? And as you can see from my screenshot 8 images results in excessive overlapping - you only need 25-30% overlaps - more is not better.

2. You are mixing TIF and JPEG images - that not what is usually advocated as far as I know.

3. You are attempting to stitch in the masked nadir shots. This may often not work well. You would in my opinion be better advised to use a shooting pattern that left a small nadir hole  - like those I suggested earlier - and then patch the nadir area of the stitched and rendered pano in post-processing?

4. How did you apply the masks to your TIF format nadir images? The white/grey zones you report when stitching in those nadir images suggest that the masked areas are not being treated as transparent by APP/APG.

5. You seem to be using aperture priority auto - you might be better off using full manual settings. The Nikkor 10.5mm FE lens is reckoned to show max. sharpness at about F8, and is fine from about F4. Yet you are using F13. Why is that?

Last edited by mediavets (2010-09-14 01:27:57)

ludo3 wrote:

Hello, sorry for the delay to answer back, I was working...
I've a good news, everything's fine for me now!

Where did you get the idea that 8 around at zero pitch plus a zenith at +90 - plus 3 nadir shots was the optimum way to shoot a pano using a Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye lens on a Nikon DX body?

Actually here...

And this is what it says:
"Le Panoramique Sphérique
Avec une optique 10.5 mm, 8 photos sont nécessaires pour réaliser un panoramique sphérique :
6 photos sur l'horizon tous les 60°
1 photo du zénith en inclinant la rotule vers le ciel
1 photo du nadir en inclinant la rotule vers le sol"

But you had 8 around the horizon at zero degrees pitch - not 6 - and not evenly spaced.

And, even if you had followed the proposed pattern, it  is not a pattern that is commonly recommended. But if you're happy with it...

And for the rest, I was trying to delete the tripod like said on this tutorial, but I was doing it wrong, and instead of having transparancy I was having white areas.. Since it appears white anyway in APG I thought I was doing it right, but I wasn't.

4. How did you apply the masks to your TIF format nadir images? The white/grey zones you report when stitching in those nadir images suggest that the masked areas are not being treated as transparent by APP/APG.

Thanks to this remark, I read again the tutorial and realized I was doing it wrong... So thank you!
Then, when it was actually transparent, everything became fine!

Thank you for your help, even though when reading you I thought I wasn't doing anything right at all..

Well you weren't really. Aperture priority auto at f13 is certainly not advisable for your camera/lens combination.

It may have 'worked' for you this time, but with many scenes in other lighting conditions it probably will not work.

These tutorials - not mine - may also be of interest to you, even if in parts they refer to a different stitching program:
http://dlsphoto.net/Tutorials/Tutorials.htm

Last edited by mediavets (2010-09-15 10:10:13)