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Thanks for the clear info Claude, seems I am fortunate in having an earlier model.
Best
Gordon
Last edited by Gordon (2010-01-11 12:19:35)
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Hi Gordon,
Fine for you !
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I've successfully upgraded my firmware from 02.05.81 to 02.06.81!
I've upgraded Merlin over real HW serial port. My father modified Bitchmouse card cracking module for my needs.
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Really happy for you !!!
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I am happy to report that I have also updated my Merlin to the newer firmware. I used Tronisoft RS232 to TTL converter together with serial cable connected to a PC.
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Hi, new to this and am confused - nothing unusual there!
I plan to buy a merlin/orion from http://www.cameracentre.co.uk/product_i … cts_id=397
Is this the correct one to buy - seems like a good deal at £159.
It is called the 'Acuter Merlin Multi-function mount'
Also wondering what happened to the forum on wifi connection to the merlin/orion seems to have ended - is there a link to the recommended solution?
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Hi Liverpool
Yes that is the correct Merlin mount.
Here is a link to where i bought mine in UK as it is a bit cheaper and you get a free
large heavy steel table top A frame base which could be handy , all for £139.99 including
postage.
Check postage for your area first just in case it does not cover where you live as the box
is quite heavy and very big.
You may also find you have to update the Firmware after receiving it unless you are
lucky but its quite simple to do.
http://www.scopesnskies.com/prod/merlin … eluxe.html
Steve
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hi,
i have to buy a new merlin in the near future. just to be sure...
all the new heads need a firmware upgrade?? or a the newest models already ready for use??
thanks, boris
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Hello Boris,
If you buy the head from "Teleskop-Austria" (see FAQ's), we have the formal garantee that the firmware is the right one!
"Probably" that the heads from Galileo.cc will also have the right firmware, because they just start with the selling of the Skywatcher heads.
This is in my plans to go to the Galileo store in Belgium and check the firmware version ? but I have not yet found the time to proceed ...
Anyway upgrading the firmware is a mather of few minutes when you have the right equipment (PC Windows with USB and ad-hoc FTDI convertor)
In Germany, France, Belgium and UK we have "ad-hoc FTDI convertors" in circulation and freely availlable (just to pay the shipping costs ...).
We can send one of them in Switzerland if necessary ...
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great news!
thanks for the fast response.
boris
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I just upgraded from 2.04.xx to 2.06.81. I can't wait to get out and take a few hundred shots now.
I used the GMUS-03 USB to Serial cable. Works great, and you can pick the COM port too. I had it for years when I bought a diagnostics tool for my truck.
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I am a little bit lost now.
I have checked the log and it says firmeware version=020581 , so I guess that I need an upgrate.
What do I need for this upgrate? I guess that I need a cable and fixed firmware.
Thanks for your help.
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Hello Martin,
The Merlin Firmware version need certainly the upgrade.
The upgrade is very easy, I have assembled all needed documents, the upgrade software and the new firmware into my web site
http://www.papymerlin.com/merlin-firmware-upgrade/
The necessary FTDI cable/convertor for the UK/Eire are actually in the ned of "iamwilll" and I will ask him to send it to you ...
Last edited by claudevh (2010-05-11 00:05:49)
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Given that these posts are about as old as my Skywatcher it probably fits in here. I'm a little confused though.
Looking closer at my test run, every second column drops which sounds like it's related to this. The drop occurs where the shift between columns occurred at the top. Not being a regular array of rows and columns there was some fast movement between images on the way up, but as I wasn't expecting this I wasn't paying too much attention at the time.
http://bigben.id.au/demo/fm2pw_alpha_test1.jpg
My firmware version is 010981 and the only thing I've read is don't upgrade it???
Last edited by ozbigben (2011-04-26 13:33:44)
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Hello Ozbigbeen,
I confirm that you should not upgrade your firmware ....!
BUT you should tighten the bolts of both vertical and horizontal axis ...
Not too much ... but normally it should not be possible to turn the head with hand !
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Thanks Claude.
I'll check these. The vertical axis is the most likely one and is a little looser then the horizontal one (which is fairly tight)... especially I guess since the camera is on the heavy side. I'll have to buy/borrow a socket to tighten it. I'll give it another test run on the weekend. Everything else is looking very promising ![]()
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ozbigben wrote:
Thanks Claude.
I'll check these. The vertical axis is the most likely one and is a little looser then the horizontal one (which is fairly tight)... especially I guess since the camera is on the heavy side. I'll have to buy/borrow a socket to tighten it. I'll give it another test run on the weekend. Everything else is looking very promising
Hey!
Generally avoid moving the head by hand in both axis - use the controller you´re workin with. That´s a bit uncomfortable, but . . . .
Horizontally it can be done easily by turning the centercolum. Vertically don´t force it to move by hand. Merlin is a clever product - but not a very sturdy one.
best, Klaus
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I never do... just tested it to see how much force was needed to budge it in case it was the problem. Anything that small designed to move slowly probably doesn't like being moved quickly
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Tightened the vertical arm but this didn't help.
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> <!-- $Id: presets.xml 1282 2009-01-08 21:47:54Z fma $ --> <papywizard> <preset name="Test1"> <tooltip>Preset generated at 30/04/2011 3:38:27 PM</tooltip> <shoot> <pict yaw="0" pitch="47.7" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="42.4" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="37.1" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="31.8" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="26.5" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="21.2" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="15.9" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="10.6" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="5.3" /> <pict yaw="0" pitch="0" /> <pict yaw="9" pitch="0" /> <pict yaw="9" pitch="5.3" /> <pict yaw="9" pitch="10.6" /> <pict yaw="9" pitch="15.9" /> <pict yaw="9" pitch="21.2" /> <pict yaw="9" pitch="26.5" /> <pict yaw="10" pitch="31.8" /> <pict yaw="10.9" pitch="37.1" /> <pict yaw="12" pitch="42.4" /> <pict yaw="12" pitch="47.7" /> <pict yaw="24" pitch="47.7" /> <pict yaw="24" pitch="42.4" /> <pict yaw="21.8" pitch="37.1" /> <pict yaw="20" pitch="31.8" /> <pict yaw="18" pitch="26.5" /> <pict yaw="18" pitch="21.2" /> <pict yaw="18" pitch="15.9" /> <pict yaw="18" pitch="10.6" /> <pict yaw="18" pitch="5.3" /> <pict yaw="18" pitch="0" /> <pict yaw="27" pitch="0" /> <pict yaw="27" pitch="5.3" /> <pict yaw="27" pitch="10.6" /> <pict yaw="27" pitch="15.9" /> <pict yaw="27" pitch="21.2" /> <pict yaw="27" pitch="26.5" /> <pict yaw="30" pitch="31.8" /> <pict yaw="32.7" pitch="37.1" /> <pict yaw="36" pitch="47.7" /> <pict yaw="36" pitch="42.4" /> <pict yaw="43.6" pitch="37.1" /> <pict yaw="40" pitch="31.8" /> <pict yaw="36" pitch="26.5" /> <pict yaw="36" pitch="21.2" /> <pict yaw="36" pitch="15.9" /> <pict yaw="36" pitch="10.6" /> <pict yaw="36" pitch="5.3" /> <pict yaw="36" pitch="0" /> <pict yaw="45" pitch="0" /> <pict yaw="45" pitch="5.3" /> <pict yaw="45" pitch="10.6" /> <pict yaw="45" pitch="15.9" /> <pict yaw="45" pitch="21.2" /> <pict yaw="45" pitch="26.5" /> <pict yaw="50" pitch="31.8" /> <pict yaw="48" pitch="42.4" /> <pict yaw="48" pitch="47.7" /> </shoot> </preset> </papywizard>
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We found that when we ask the Merlin/Orion to go to a position < 6°, it does not reach full speed, but remains at a very slow speed. So, in Papywizard, I added this feature: when the asked angle is < 6° (this angle is customizabled as the 'alternate drive angle'), I don't use the Merlin goto function, but instead start to move it at full speed (like when using the arrow buttons), then I poll its position, and stop it when OK. In fact, I stop it *before*, because of the inertia. This angle is called 'inertia angle'. It depends on the load. Once stopped, I make a final move with the Merlin goto function, to be accurate.
So, if you set the alternate drive angle to 15°, it will use this feature even when not necessary. In your preset, you have small moves, so you should enable this feature.
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Thanks for that explanation... I think it all makes sense now which is a big relief
.
So if I understand it correctly I should probably reset these back to their defaults (things worked well with the short moves and the speed was faster) but I should increase the inertia angle to slow it down sooner on the long moves to compensate for the weight of the camera/lens. Since my drift was ~1° I'd want to change it from 1° to something more like 2.5°.. although I should probably double check with a fast move in the downward direction.
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Yes, try to change the inertia angle to match your system...
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