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Pages: 1
Hi all
Please look at my first project posted on the gigapan site.
http://www.gigapan.org/viewGigapan.php? … width=1263
i especially need advice with the render settings. i dont intend to print any projects as i will upload anything i do to the gigapan website. i used Autopano Giga 2
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You already seem to know that you should have shot in manual exposure mode, but variable exposure doesn't seem to have hurt the result.
To get the black areas filled in, use a regular scan across your scene: plan to cover the panorama with a certain number of rows and columns, then capture every image in that matrix. Plan for about 25% overlap between images horizontally and vertically. Don't bother photographing blank sky--if an image is more than half blank sky, violate the matrix rule and pitch the camera down to avoid the sky.
Capturing by rows and columns is easier if you have a tripod head with rulings for both pitch and yaw. I use the Manfrotto 303SPH, which is overkill for my Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ8. Using a panoramic head is good for rotating the camera aroundt the "no parallax point", which will be important if you wish to shoot panoramas with objects both close to the camera and far away.
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scott wrote:
Hi all
Please look at my first project posted on the gigapan site.
http://www.gigapan.org/viewGigapan.php? … width=1263
i especially need advice with the render settings. i dont intend to print any projects as i will upload anything i do to the gigapan website. i used Autopano Giga 2Render settings used
. (i dont really understand the settings below)
Output size set to 51%
Depth: 8bits
Dpi: 300Image info
245 input images.
Size: 108032 x 22068
FOV: 95.63 x 25.40
Projection: Planar
Colour: LDR
I don't understand why you would shoot at full/max. size then reduce the size to 51% when rendering? You might as well have shot at a lower res. in the first place, or shot fewer at full res. and less zoom.
WRT rendering settings, Dpi doesn't matter - that's a print 'thing'.
If you plan to do a lot of these, it's a lot easier to shoot such large numbers of images if you have a motorised pano head.
Last edited by mediavets (2009-05-19 12:51:14)
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a fail-safe to the black parts, other than what john_sauter said is to shoot just a couple of shots at a low focal length that take in the whole scene, either at the begining or the end of the shoot. Then if you do have any holes, you can use these images to fill them in in post processing. They wont have as good resolution, but it's better than having black holes. Its also an option for when you want to fill in sky, which often you probably wont want to zoom into alot
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scott wrote:
Render settings used (i dont really understand the settings below.)
Output size set to 51%
Depth: 8bits
Dpi: 300
DPI setting is useless if you don't print and can be changed when printing: just ignore it.
8 bits depth corresponds to color accuracy: 16 bits is sometimes preferable for intermediary steps when strong post-processing is needed but as a rule 8 bits is enough (faster processing, smaller files.)
Output size do matter: only a 100% setting will ensure that the smalest details your camera recorded are visible in the final result. As the Gigapan site (contrary to most pano sites) enable very large images being displayed at full size, this 100% setting is highly recommended for Gigapan.
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Thanks for the replies. The comments were very helpful.
There’s just a couple more things I fell I need to know.
The aperture on my camera goes up to f8 should I always set and lock to this amount. Also what metering mode should I use, centre weighted, spot, Multi
Thanks
Scott
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Test to see at which aperture your images are sharpest, or look online for a review of your lens.
The higher the f number, the greater your depth of field, meaning more is in focus.
Metering mode - doesn't really matter since you should adjust it manually anyway. You might want to use spot metering to expose for the brightest part of the sky, and then bracket for the darker ground. If you do not want to lock exposure, you might want to use multi.
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DrSlony wrote:
Test to see at which aperture your images are sharpest, or look online for a review of your lens.
The higher the f number, the greater your depth of field, meaning more is in focus.
It's a Lumix DMC-FZ28 - a compact with a small sensor so DOF at any aperture will be much greater than with a DSLR.
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wjh31 wrote:
a fail-safe to the black parts, other than what john_sauter said is to shoot just a couple of shots at a low focal length that take in the whole scene, either at the begining or the end of the shoot. Then if you do have any holes, you can use these images to fill them in in post processing. They wont have as good resolution, but it's better than having black holes. Its also an option for when you want to fill in sky, which often you probably wont want to zoom into alot
I've just got Photoshop Elements 7 and want to try what wjh31 wrote above, I've never used Photoshop before so would it be difficult for a novice to fill in the black holes as suggested above or is it pretty straight forward to suss out how to do it.
Scott
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make the black bit transparent and then just line up the low res image underneath in another layer is probably the simplest way, maybe with a blurred eraser brush around the edge on the high res image to ease the transition a bit. Im not sure what is available in elements vs the full version. You may need to tweak the levels/curves/whatever to get a closer match. This should probably get you close enough, you can spend as much time as you like trying to perfect it according to the finished quality you seek and your patience/skill
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I’ve just got myself a copy CS4 because large files don’t open in Elements 7. I’ve learnt how to make the black bits transparent and I also have a low res image I can use to layer it underneath however I don’t actually know how to add a low res image to a layer and then layer it underneath my main image. Any help here would be very much appreciated.
Regards
Scott
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