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Pages: 1
Hi!
I just unmanteled the Merlin. What i saw: it is possible to cut appr. 1,5cm off each long side of the base.
That makes the camera look down some vital degrees more. When additional shooting a "cross"-Nadir along with the 4 or 6 (eight is obsolete - you just double the four shots mirrored . . ) shots @-80° the Nadir will be very small and easily to retouch or to cover.
The question is how to do it without a complete demontage of all parts because of metal-fragments from cutting . .
I guess a hand-saw (!) - that will take some time, but it´s not hard steel . . .
What do you mean?
best, Klaus
(of cause power has to be external . . 
)
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I think a hand-saw is the best solution. Just protect the electronic with some rags, and use a vacuum cleaner to remove the metal parts as soon as they are generated, close to the saw.
But are you sure you want to do that?
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fma38 wrote:
But are you sure you want to do that?
Yep! Makes things easier with spheres. Needs to be protected of course - but a good gaffer´s tape so will do that.
This wouldn´t have any negative aspect on other funktions! Besides of the batteries, of course . .
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2009-01-11 17:14:35)
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But you will still have to take a nadir shot, without the Merlin. So, I'm not sure it is mandatory to remove a few millimeters...
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another way to get more flexibility is to add two alloy or pom blocks between the two Merlin parts to get more clearance in heigth (and width). more heigth equals to more degrees in -pitch. 2cm should be possible without need for longer wiring. also a +90 pitch should then be possible with more cams.
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fma38 wrote:
But you will still have to take a nadir shot, without the Merlin. So, I'm not sure it is mandatory to remove a few millimeters...
Not always a closed sphere is needed. Very often people don´t want it do look straight downwards.
They feel "seasick" . . - besides: rarely a straight downlook gives vital information . . so a small bubble or a logo-plate will do very fine most of the time. The point is to keep a bubble or a plate as small as possible.
If the Nadir really is essential it´s no problem to shoot it seperately. I recently used my GitzoNo.5 and for the Nadir-shot i removed the head-plate and hang a camera into the open ring. So i could get a down-shot exactly centered without having legs in the center. This is fine if long exposure is needed - otherwise i do it by hand of course . .
best, Klaus
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Paul wrote:
another way to get more flexibility is to add two alloy or pom blocks between the two Merlin parts to get more clearance in heigth (and width). more heigth equals to more degrees in -pitch. 2cm should be possible without need for longer wiring. also a +90 pitch should then be possible with more cams.
Good idea - possibly both modifications will be a good combination . . !
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