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jplorge wrote:
Hello,
someone could help me how to test a IR Gentled for Nikon D70 without heads Merlin?
Thank you
Bonjour,
Quelqu'un pourrait m'aider pour tester une commande IR Gentled pour Nikon d70 sans la tête Merlin?
Merci d'avance
Jean-Pierre
Which Gentled IR model do you have? - I have a Gentled-Jump for my D40.
Last edited by mediavets (2008-11-11 12:39:17)
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i receive the info.:
J'ai reçu l'infomation de James "Gentled" la voici pour tous:
__________________________
Do this. There are 4 wires:
1. BLACK connect to negative or battery
2. RED connect to +ve or battery (must be between 3 and 5,5 volts)
3. YELLOW, do not connect
4. BLUE, every time you short BLUE to BLACK it will trigger the camera
Make sense?
James
_________________
Everything is ok
JP
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jplorge wrote:
i receive the info.:
J'ai reçu l'infomation de James "Gentled" la voici pour tous:
__________________________
Do this. There are 4 wires:
1. BLACK connect to negative or battery
2. RED connect to +ve or battery (must be between 3 and 5,5 volts)
3. YELLOW, do not connect
4. BLUE, every time you short BLUE to BLACK it will trigger the camera
Make sense?
James
_________________
Everything is ok
JP
Yes, that's for the Gentled-Shutter IR device/cable.
Her is what the manual - http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/Manual-gentled.pdf - says:
"Switch Operation
Alternately (or additionally – as both will work together) you can short the
blue wire to the black wire on the servo connector to trigger the camera.
In this mode the servo connector should be used to supply between 3
and 5.5V to the unit. The blue wire can thus be connected to the trigger
source(s) of your choice."
............
I am using the Gentled-Jump - http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/Manual-jump.pdf - which has its own internal battery; it is housed in a small box with a 2.5mm socket and connects to the Merlin head using the camera shutter release cable supplied with the Merlin head.
You will need to find some other way to provide power to your Gentled IR device/cable. I'll be interested to see what solution you come up with because the Gentled-Shutter is considerably less expensive that the Gentled-Jump.
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You can use the power from the Merlin, with a simple 5V regulator, or even a DC-DC converter (much expensive, but easier to use).
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The lathe works ...
I hope next week to get the Orion test head and then we will make a crown to get a maximum clearance towards the horizontal axis.
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Paul wrote:
The lathe works ...
I hope next week to get the Orion test head and then we will make a crown to get a maximum clearance towards the horizontal axis.
Wow - that's some 'toy'.
Looking forward to what you come up for a replacement crown - please put my name on the waiting list.
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Hi Andrew, as promised the dismantling of the original older.
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Sorry picture on the second palce should come last !
Claude
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claudevh wrote:
Sorry picture on the second palce should come last !
Claude
Thanks for the clear instructions and photos.
Well, sadly it didn't work for me - I just could not remove the small screw despite heating it with a soldering iron..
So.....patience exhausted .....I burned the big plastic knob away with a soldering iron - fumes from melting plastic not too pleasant - then grabbed the shaft of the camera screw with some grips and the head of the small screw with some pliers and finally managed to remove the small screw and the washer beneath it.
But...the brass insert from the big knob is still very firmly attached to the shaft of the 'bolt/camera screw' - is it screwed onto the shaft of the 'bolt/camera screw'?
Anyway I can still do the screw up and I have plenty of clearance now and with my D40 and Nikkor 10.5 FE can easily achieve full vertical rotation.
What would be nice now is a slightly cranked (dog-leg) rail with a channel in it - like a NN rail - so I could use my NN camera plate directly.
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The brass insert is screwed on the Shaft, but as you have discovered you can left the lever part in place.
This is not this part who prevent the full rotation but wel the body of the camera.
Fortunately, You have a Nikon D40 who is very "compact" in comparison of the Canon 40D !
Like the small screw is glued, the brass insert is also "glued" on the shaft by a special glue named 'frein filet" in french (Loctite 243 ?).
They are 2 way for dismantling:
-Temperature (150-200°)
-Chemical
I don't know the chemical used but you can probably find it on the web site of Loctite.
Claude![]()
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claudevh wrote:
The brass insert is screwed on the Shaft, but as you have discovered you can left the lever part in place.
This is not this part who prevent the full rotation but wel the body of the camera.
Fortunately, You have a Nikon D40 who is very "compact" in comparison of the Canon 40D !
Like the small screw is glued, the brass insert is also "glued" on the shaft by a special glue named 'frein filet" in french (Loctite 243 ?).
They are 2 way for dismantling:
-Temperature (150-200°)
-Chemical
I don't know the chemical used but you can probably find it on the web site of Loctite.
Claude
Claude
Thanks for the info.
It could be I didn't get the whole assembly hot enough when attempting to remove the small screw. My soldering iron has quite a small tip.
What was that lever part for anyway? - it does not seem to do anything.
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The lever pull down a little bit the screw, to block the camera.
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By turning clockwise, the lever part give the last clamping (a few extra mm) of the screw after having fixed the camera manually.
This is really very usefull! No need of forcing the screw with a tool !
Claude![]()
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claudevh wrote:
By turning clockwise, the lever part give the last clamping (a few extra mm) of the screw after having fixed the camera manually.
This is really very usefull! No need of forcing the screw with a tool !
Claude
Sounds good but I cannot detect any such effect - perhaps I have broken mine.
Never mind.
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Merlin not MARLIN
could someone corect the title?
tks
michael przewrocki
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europanorama wrote:
Merlin not MARLIN
could someone corect the title?
tks
michael przewrocki
Is it a bird, is it a plane (engine), is it a fish?...no it's a motorised pano head.![]()
Last edited by mediavets (2008-11-07 13:59:43)
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MARLIN was the shop here in basel-switzerland where i saw canon 5d mk2 and sx1IS(SX100IS) WWW.FOTOMARLIN.CH
but we could not try out contax/yashica-eos-adapter(dslexchange) since canon had only 5 bodies around in europe. too risky.
michael przewrocki
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The Merlin/Orion head has a socket for connecting a shutter release cable - it is supplied with a cable with 2.5mm stereo jack plugs on each end which will work 'out-of-the-box' with the low end range of Canon DSLRs - the 300D, 350D, 400D and 450D, aka the digital Rebel range in the USA.
You can modify this cable to work with cameras requiring a different connector at the camera end. The easiest and cheapest way to do this is to but an appropriate cheap remote control (from eBay) and cannibalise the cable to assemble a 'hybrid' cable using part of the standard cable, so that you have the camera specific connector on one end and the 2.5mm stereo jack plug at the other to connect to the camera socket on the Merlin head.
There are some posts here about how to do that for the Canon XXD series of DSLRs:
http://www.autopano.net/forum/p32348-ye … -01#p32348
What if you would like to use Merlin/Papywizard but your camera does not have a socket for a wired remote control....how can Merlin/Papywizard automatically trigger the shutter while shooting a panorama?
If like my Nikon D40 (also the case with the D40X, D50 and D60) your camera does not have a socket for a wired remote but does support an IR remote then you may be able to use the gentled-JUMP IR shutter trigger device:
http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/options.htm#IRjump
The gentled-JUMP has the advantage of having its own battery to provide power and it works just fine with my D40 using the standard camera cable supplied with the Merlin/Orion head - a 'plug-n-play' solution - see photo below.
The gentled-JUMP should work with any camera that will work with one of the following IR remotes:
If you are more adept at DIY than I am you should also be able to configure the gentled-SHUTTER IR cable - but you will have to provide power to it (perhaps from the Tronisoft 4201?) and add a suitable 2.5mm jack connector to connect it to the head:
http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/options.htm#IRshutter
The gentled-SHUTTER should work with any camera that will work with one of the following IR remotes:
If you camera does not support either a wired or IR remote then you can still use the Merlin/Papywizard motorised pano head system but you will have to press the shutter button yourself. Papywizard can be configured for manual shooting - when it will stop at each position and wait until the user chooses to resume.
Last edited by mediavets (2008-11-11 14:03:44)
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Hi Claude,
Sorry, I can't find it in the posts, what are you using to separate the head from the base and still hold it all together, have you manufatured an insert and using longer screws? That separation seems like the best place to fix NPP problems. I see schematics in this thread about a new crown but I dont believe we are talking about the same thing.
Your enlightenment would be appreciated!
Jason
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Hi Jason,
Could you give me a little bit more informations about your camera and optics you intend to use with the Merlin/Orion Head ?
Your camera is a Nikon D200 ? What will be the optic you intent to use with this camera for Panoramic photography .
On basis of your answers I can give you more info's.
Claude
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odyssey wrote:
I can't find it in the posts, what are you using to separate the head from the base and still hold it all together
you mean this?
http://www.autopano.net/forum/p31985-20 … -52#p31985
two more pics:
http://www.autopano.net/forum/p32400-to … -57#p32400
Last edited by Paul (2008-11-11 20:22:22)
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Hi Paul,
Yes, thanks, that is what I was trying to figure out!
Jason
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Hi Jason
As explained by Paul in his post http://www.autopano.net/forum/p32400-to … -57#p32400, you can win about 9 to 10 mm on the "A" Quote !
Without modification the Merlin/Orion accept cameras with a maximum "A" quote of 40 mm!
With the separation as explained by Paul, the maximum quote will become 40 + 10 mm = 50 mm !
If, as I presume you have a Nikon 200D, this camera have a "A" quote of 50 mm, this will just pass at the limit...!?!
Explanations of the Camera quotes : http://www.autopano.net/forum/postgalle … Etiers.jpg
Before looking for a replacement crown, you have to tink "deeply" that the limitation of the Merlin/Orion head is the clearance between the vertical part, the horizontal part and the camera and his support, see herafter:
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Hi all
For pass/no pass quotes of cameras see the next subject (in french).
http://www.autopano.net/forum/t3073-que … -te-merlin
This could be interesting to continue collecting those informations and summarize them in the wiki.
Claude
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odyssey wrote:
Hi Paul,
Yes, thanks, that is what I was trying to figure out!
Jason
If you are shooting high res mosaics of distant scenes with longer focal length lenses and have nothing close by in the scene then the NPP (and the parallax issue) is irrelevant.
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