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leifs wrote:
klausesser wrote:
The setting for light smoothing is completely unusable. THIS causes an overdone damping
of the highlights and so cause halos. And that causes the un-natural overexaggerated "HDR"-look."light smoothing" ??
you mean "Smooth highlights" in details enhancer ? Micro-smoothing ?klausesser wrote:
PS2: leif - 3 steps bracketing is not enough when you shoot "into the light". Take 7 or 9 steps with one step difference, better 0,5 or 0,75.
It's part of a 5-bracket set. I tried it in APG but was not happy with the result. To try out several paths I made a 3-bracket set out of it, to reduce the time per cycle.
Leif
Sorry - was in a hurry - i meant "smooth highlights" od course.
Use the 5-step set into Photomatix. Important is the "weighting" of the brackets. What strategy did you use to shoot? 0, -, -, +, + or -, -, 0, +, + or what?
Shooting "into the sun" ideally start with the sun set to "0" and go +, ++, +++, ++++ with 0,5 or 1 EV difference.
best, Klaus
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klausesser wrote:
Use the 5-step set into Photomatix. Important is the "weighting" of the brackets. What strategy did you use to shoot? 0, -, -, +, + or -, -, 0, +, + or what?
Shooting "into the sun" ideally start with the sun set to "0" and go +, ++, +++, ++++ with 0,5 or 1 EV difference.
best, Klaus
I used the default strategy of my camera: 0EV,-2EV,-1EV,+1EV,+2EV
it was shot in <5sec per position so I guess thats no big deal.
Is there a way to "weight" the brackets in Photomatix ? I have not seen any.
btw:
I've made a black-and-white set using "default enhancer". I used the default settings and It is obvious that they are not usable for spheres.
Probably are none of the default settings in Photomatix suitable for spheres and/or clear blue sky.
If so: it will be a long haul of try/see/change the setting in Photomatix to obtain a smooth sky.
Leif
Last edited by leifs (2013-02-04 22:52:52)
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lumelix wrote:
Which version of Photomatix do you use?
I use Photomatix Pro 4.2 (64bit)
Leif
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leifs wrote:
klausesser wrote:
Use the 5-step set into Photomatix. Important is the "weighting" of the brackets. What strategy did you use to shoot? 0, -, -, +, + or -, -, 0, +, + or what?
Shooting "into the sun" ideally start with the sun set to "0" and go +, ++, +++, ++++ with 0,5 or 1 EV difference.
best, KlausI used the default strategy of my camera: 0EV,-2EV,-1EV,+1EV,+2EV
it was shot in <5sec per position so I guess thats no big deal.
Is there a way to "weight" the brackets in Photomatix ? I have not seen any.
. . it will be a long haul of try/see/change the setting in Photomatix to obtain a smooth sky.
Leif
"Weighting" should be done in the shooting of course - by measuring the relevant points and adress the relevant values to this points.
As example: set the sun to it´s optimal exposure. The rst of trhe iage will be very much too dark - of course.
Setting trhe rest of the images brighter and brighter must result in in optimal exposure for the image containing deep shadows.
If 5 are not enough: use 7 or 9 steps.
If you shot 5 sec per position that means you changed the aperture. That´s no good! Better use a constant aperture and change the time!
Changing the aperture will most likely be too limited in values and means changing DOF and maybe cause vignetting when the aperture opens wide.
(maybe i mistake that - if that´s so: sorry).
And: yes - it takes some time to find the best setting for a set in Photomatix. Nothing comes from nothing . . . . 
Once you got used to the procedure you can "feel" it - and then you´re fast.
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2013-02-04 23:39:38)
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Hi Leif
Shot direct into the sun is very tricky.
Did you use a sun shade on the lens ?
I have problems even with the 105 and 200mm Micro Nikkor when shooting
into the sun. Without the sun shades there are strong color errors from reflexes inside the lenses.
To get all from the deepest shadows to the brilliant sun I shoot 9 bracketings in 2EV steps.
In theory, there are 12 EV dynamics from the camera and more 8 EV from the bracketing.
This 20 EV of dynamics is still not enough to show the real situation on location.
I process the NEF (RAW) images with Capture NX2 to TIFF 16bit as input for Photomatix.
On the other side, you can get out a lot from the shadows in underexposed images.
So try out if your underexposed set is ok for lighten up the shadows.
Last edited by lumelix (2013-02-04 23:54:55)
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I have now landed this pano, after countless hours of research.
I started out with merging stacks using Photomatix, fusion. After stitching in APG the sky wasn't nice.
In the tutorial "LDR / HDR - Workflow case B" it is adviced like this:
<<Settings
But as the brackets don't get the same reference exposure levels, the result of the blending can be locally unbalanced.
To avoid this, we increase the Multiband blending level going from -2 to 0.>>
I tried to change multiband blending to -1, then 0. The sky was ugly.
This was the point I did a mistake. I went to try case B, E, F
The right answere was to change the multiband blending to -3 !
First I used it on case B, fuse and stitch in APG. The sky was fine. But I discovered that editing the CP's was an overwhelming undertaking.
My conclusion is that it is not doable to use case B for panos of 92 positions.
Next was to try Photomatix first then APG, again, this time using multiband blending -3.
The sky was nice ! I had to edit two steps in the horizon, but that's another discussion.
The result can be seen here http://www.rundskuer.no/panotour/rinden … ltour.html
Leif
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