yoshiharra wrote:

I am a Mac user, but realize it does not work with Mac.

I have MSI U100 netbook, but not a Windows expert. Can someone point me to a step-by-step instruction that I can follow to setup my netbook?

TIA

There´s a Mac version of DSLR Remore Pro!

best, Klaus

yoshiharra wrote:

Hi Klaus

I read in this thread somewhere that DSLR Remote Pro can not be used with Pappywizard as a plugin on Mac?

If you are seeking a way of performing extended exposure bracketing then the Promote Control seems to be the best solution and it will work when using Papywizard on the N810 (or using the T&C Touch Controller) with no need for a tethered laptop.

mediavets wrote:

If you are seeking a way of performing extended exposure bracketing then the Promote Control seems to be the best solution and it will work when using Papywizard on the N810 (or using the T&C Touch Controller) with no need for a tethered laptop.

Can you tell me more on Promote Control using with N810?


Klaus, I think Frédéric mentioned it in this thread somewhere (I think) -

http://www.kolor.com/forum/t5220-papywi … bug-report

Last edited by yoshiharra (2013-02-08 21:44:34)

yoshiharra wrote:

mediavets wrote:

If you are seeking a way of performing extended exposure bracketing then the Promote Control seems to be the best solution and it will work when using Papywizard on the N810 (or using the T&C Touch Controller) with no need for a tethered laptop.

Can you tell me more on Promote Control using with N810?


Klaus, I think Frédéric mentioned it in this thread somewhere (I think) -

http://www.kolor.com/forum/t5220-papywi … bug-report

the Promote Control is this one:
http://www.promotesystems.com/products/ … ntrol.html
(you can connect the promote control to Canon and Nikons via shutter cable and via usb cable. additional the promote has an "remote Sensor port". this remote sensor port can be connected with the merlin snap port or you can connect it with the TC handcontroller device too)
I do with mine following: promote directly connected to my canon eos via USB and shutter release cable. the promote remote sensor is connected with the TC handcontroller which itels is connected to the merlin head....)

Georg

PS: promote manual is one year old, download the latest firmaware zip, which includes the most recent 2.6 manual:
https://support.promotesystems.com/inde … ;nav=0,4,6

Last edited by gkaefer (2013-02-08 22:20:39)

klausesser wrote:

... If you are seeking a way of performing extended exposure bracketing then the Promote Control seems to be the best solution and it will work when using Papywizard on the N810 (or using the T&C Touch Controller) with no need for a tethered laptop.

Hi Klaus

I am intrigued, are you saying that I don't need the Promote Controller if I have ML installed in my Canon T3i(600D)?!

I have already ML installed in my T3i, I am trying to bracket 5 or 7 frames at 1ev apart. Can you give me some settings/info as to how should I setup, pappywizard and MagicLantern?

@Andrew and Georg, Thanks for the info. At this time I will try and avoid investing on Promote, if I can help it. I will give MagicLantern a try.

You may find this overview of extended exposure bracketing options of interest?:

http://wiki.panotools.org/Extended_bracketing_control

yoshiharra wrote:

HI Klaus

I think I have come full circle (see my post here http://www.kolor.com/forum/t16296-papyw … lease-help and your reply), I was trying to make a 5 or 7 frame bracketing with ML with my EOS T3i (600D). Daylight, manual mode, manual focus, center speed at 1/125. So am not hitting the 30sec. limit either.

Being a photographer, I am technically challenged (altho, I was very proud after I was able to install Python and Pappywizard on my N810!)

So, now all I want to do is 5/7 bracket, 1ev apart, daylight, manual exposer, manual focus, with N810 and T3i(600D)/MagiLantern. Any information that will help me achive this will be greatly appreciated.

Did yo find out the pulse-values(Pappywizard) from Josef? How important is LiveView mode, as this will be a concern fro battery life.

Thanks

It´s quite simple: you need the N810 - or whatever controller - to move the head and to trigger the camera. When the camera gets triggered it starts the brackting sequence. Of course you must set PW to wait until the sequence is finished before it moves the head further.

I suggest to work in live-view-mode: this way the mirror doesen´t move during the sequence - and so you avoid mirror-shaking.

Usually 3 steps of 1,5 or 2 EV are sufficient in most cases. But dealing with bright lights like shooting into the sunset most likely 3 steps are not enough. Here 7 or 9 steps are preferable - the more the better, because the less the EV-differences between the steps the smoother the result.

Just test it! It´s learning by doing.

best, Klaus