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Hi, next week i will make a gigapixel photo in the inaugural baseball game of the caribean´s series tournament on a new stadium, and i want to make a pic to later build a gigatag photo
I´ve made a photo using a t3i camera and 28-135 @135 mm http://gigapan.com/gigapans/118502
My question is about autofocus on each photo using epic pro head, 5D markIII and Sigma 50-500, i want to focus all the crowd
This is the new stadium http://gigapan.com/gigapans/121657 , i has some problem to sticht the blue sky, even using gigapan wizard
Thank you so much
greetings
Juan Pablo
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bungolio wrote:
Hi, next week i will make a gigapixel photo in the inaugural baseball game of the caribean´s series tournament on a new stadium, and i want to make a pic to later build a gigatag photo
I´ve made a photo using a t3i camera and 28-135 @135 mm http://gigapan.com/gigapans/118502
My question is about autofocus on each photo using epic pro head, 5D markIII and Sigma 50-500, i want to focus all the crowd
This is the new stadium http://gigapan.com/gigapans/121657 , i has some problem to sticht the blue sky, even using gigapan wizard
Thank you so much
greetings
Juan Pablo
doing panos & using autofocus only meets in one application: focusstacking. In all other kinds of panos never never ever use autofocus.
if you do you will have dozens of unblendable images (one is sharp the image next to it is not so seats, bows whatever does not anymore fit together. and most probably your cam will have some occasions where the autofocus will fail and than you've an missing image in consequence.
use a focal length and aperture combination that allows you an suitable shutterspeed BUT also gives you enough DOF so everything is sharp in your image.
have a look here for DOF online tools:
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/action/ … -Tutorials
also if you've an android device available, search Play Store for "Photo Tools", "DOF Calc" and "DOF Calculator".
take an golf rangefinder like the Golf rangefinder GX-3i http://golf.leupold.com/ to measure the distance from your panotaking positions to the different seatrows. with this information and the sensor size of your cam and the planned focal and aperture value and the distance you manually focus on (for all images of your pano) you can determine the sharpeness areas starting and end points and if you choose the values carrefully you will find some combinations so the hyperfocal distance is starting in same range so you finally can say (as example now) from 150m to infinity everything will be sharp...
Georg
PS: also WB and all other possible "auto" settings on your cam switch to manual (WB, ISO in special)
Last edited by gkaefer (2013-01-28 11:24:10)
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gkaefer wrote:
bungolio wrote:
Hi, next week i will make a gigapixel photo in the inaugural baseball game of the caribean´s series tournament on a new stadium, and i want to make a pic to later build a gigatag photo
I´ve made a photo using a t3i camera and 28-135 @135 mm http://gigapan.com/gigapans/118502
My question is about autofocus on each photo using epic pro head, 5D markIII and Sigma 50-500, i want to focus all the crowd
This is the new stadium http://gigapan.com/gigapans/121657 , i has some problem to sticht the blue sky, even using gigapan wizard
Thank you so much
greetings
Juan Pablodoing panos & using autofocus only meets in one application: focusstacking. In all other kinds of panos never never ever use autofocus.
if you do you will have dozens of unblendable images (one is sharp the image next to it is not so seats, bows whatever does not anymore fit together. and most probably your cam will have some occasions where the autofocus will fail and than you've an missing image in consequence.
use a focal length and aperture combination that allows you an suitable shutterspeed BUT also gives you enough DOF so everything is sharp in your image.
have a look here for DOF online tools:
http://www.autopano.net/wiki-en/action/ … -Tutorials
also if you've an android device available, search Play Store for "Photo Tools", "DOF Calc" and "DOF Calculator".
take an golf rangefinder like the Golf rangefinder GX-3i http://golf.leupold.com/ to measure the distance from your panotaking positions to the different seatrows. with this information and the sensor size of your cam and the planned focal and aperture value and the distance you manually focus on (for all images of your pano) you can determine the sharpeness areas starting and end points and if you choose the values carrefully you will find some combinations so the hyperfocal distance is starting in same range so you finally can say (as example now) from 150m to infinity everything will be sharp...
Georg
PS: also WB and all other possible "auto" settings on your cam switch to manual (WB, ISO in special)
Thanks for your complete answer, i have a doubt, what is the fastest method to manual focusing each photo preventing ghost effect in a large crowd site
Best
Juan Pablo
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bungolio wrote:
Thanks for your complete answer, i have a doubt, what is the fastest method to manual focusing each photo preventing ghost effect in a large crowd site
Best
Juan Pablo
so as example:
5DMakII € 200mm with f11 and focus manually set once to 50m:
between 37,29m and 75,84m everything is sharp and hyperfocal is at 146,15m so behind this all is sharp again.
same with f8:
between 40,27m and 66,47m everything is sharp and hyperfocal is at 200,95m so behind this all is sharp again.
same with f16:
between 33,43m and 99,13m everything is sharp and hyperfocal is at 100,48m so behind this all is sharp again.
bingo... 33,5m to infinity all is sharp using the cam settings and setting focus to 50m distance
so you need the distances.... (or practise on scene will be very painful)...
about shutterspeed: you cant avoid ghosts in a full stadium. 1/90 or faster to keep the single images sharp.
dont knwo how much time you've to take the pano. but taking 2 images on same imageposition with 2-3 seconds delay cant be wrong.
Georg
Last edited by gkaefer (2013-01-28 18:37:23)
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gkaefer wrote:
bungolio wrote:
Thanks for your complete answer, i have a doubt, what is the fastest method to manual focusing each photo preventing ghost effect in a large crowd site
Best
Juan Pabloso as example:
5DMakII € 200mm with f11 and focus manually set once to 50m:
between 37,29m and 75,84m everything is sharp and hyperfocal is at 146,15m so behind this all is sharp again.
same with f8:
between 40,27m and 66,47m everything is sharp and hyperfocal is at 200,95m so behind this all is sharp again.
same with f16:
between 33,43m and 99,13m everything is sharp and hyperfocal is at 100,48m so behind this all is sharp again.
bingo... 33,5m to infinity all is sharp using the cam settings and setting focus to 50m distance
so you need the distances.... (or practise on scene will be very painful)...
about shutterspeed: you cant avoid ghosts in a full stadium. 1/90 or faster to keep the single images sharp.
dont knwo how much time you've to take the pano. but taking 2 images on same imageposition with 2-3 seconds delay cant be wrong.
Georg
I will try your suggest and practice, thank you so much
Juan Pablo
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bungolio wrote:
i have a doubt, what is the fastest method to manual focusing each photo preventing ghost effect in a large crowd site
There is no method to prevent ghosts in such a case. You´ll need HEAVY retouching.
The problem is: if you move the head quickly - as example in motorized "Speed Mode" you need to use VERY short exposure-time.
With a 200mm lens it needs faster than 1/2000 . . using f:8 or f:11 at the same time you will find it´s impossible even if you don´t extremely crank up the ISO (which prdoces lots of noise).
Another point: shooting fast in a crowd you´ll find moves very close to each other - that means: no way to use spare space for retouching.
So the only way is: each photo manually focused and constantly looking through the viewfinder for hitting the optimal moments of moving on ajacent images.
A collegue did such a shot using a Rodeon-head in speed mode . . he definitely wasn´t amazed . .
http://www.afb-media.de/innovationen-3
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2013-01-28 18:52:09)
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Good Morning,
In gyms, you can not shoot higher F4 and without autofocus. But the autofocus has to be limited. Then it is necessary to shoot with ISO 3000 and a speed of 1/2500 minimum. As a camera, I can recommend for this case only Canon 1D mark IV or Canon 1DX. So you can produce 4 or 5 frames per second. In such a match is not enough time for recording. With our motorheads we photographed 6 gigapixel in 3 minutes. So it is possible.
Here ist the Story: http://www.afb-media.de/vvo .Sorry, it is only in german. ![]()
Viele Grüße
Holger
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HolgerS wrote:
Good Morning,
In gyms, you can not shoot higher F4 and without autofocus. But the autofocus has to be limited. Then it is necessary to shoot with ISO 3000 and a speed of 1/2500 minimum. As a camera, I can recommend for this case only Canon 1D mark IV or Canon 1DX. So you can produce 4 or 5 frames per second. In such a match is not enough time for recording. With our motorheads we photographed 6 gigapixel in 3 minutes. So it is possible.
Here ist the Story: http://www.afb-media.de/vvo .Sorry, it is only in german.
Viele Grüße
Holger
Hi Holger!
Many things are possible . . ![]()
I guess it´s a question of what you want to achive ![]()
best, Klaus
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HolgerS wrote:
Klaus, Speed and not so much Ghosts where my Goals.
good man! ![]()
best to you, Klaus
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Tomorrow i will shoot the Gigapixel photo in the stadium with a Sigma 50-500 mm 4.5-6.3
What your final suggestion??
I have a doubt, if use The Sigma with my 5d MarkIII or with my Canon T3i to take de advantage of the crop factor of the sensor
I make this test, one photo whit markIII and the other with t3i, the one whit more zoom is the t3i, Both cameras whit the same parameters
Last edited by bungolio (2013-02-01 06:47:51)
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bungolio wrote:
Tomorrow i will shoot the Gigapixel photo in the stadium with a Sigma 50-500 mm 4.5-6.3
What your final suggestion??
I have a doubt, if use The Sigma with my 5d MarkIII or with my Canon T3i to take de advantage of the crop factor of the sensor
I make this test, one photo whit markIII and the other with t3i, the one whit more zoom is the t3i, Both cameras whit the same parameters
Juan - which focal length are you going to use? You say you have a 50-500mm lens . .
using 50mm i would suggest to take a usual 50mm lens: you have more speed and most likely a better optical performance.
I think the maximum focal-length to use in your scenario should be 85mm - using a good and speedy prime-lens, 1,4 or 1,8 or so at f5,6 or f8.
My suggestion: forget the 50-500 and use a speedy prime lens of 50 or 85mm.
best and good luck, Klaus
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klausesser wrote:
bungolio wrote:
Tomorrow i will shoot the Gigapixel photo in the stadium with a Sigma 50-500 mm 4.5-6.3
What your final suggestion??
I have a doubt, if use The Sigma with my 5d MarkIII or with my Canon T3i to take de advantage of the crop factor of the sensor
I make this test, one photo whit markIII and the other with t3i, the one whit more zoom is the t3i, Both cameras whit the same parametersJuan - which focal length are you going to use? You say you have a 50-500mm lens . .
using 50mm i would suggest to take a usual 50mm lens: you have more speed and most likely a better optical performance.
I think the maximum focal-length to use in your scenario should be 85mm - using a good and speedy prime-lens, 1,4 or 1,8 or so at f5,6 or f8.
My suggestion: forget the 50-500 and use a speedy prime lens of 50 or 85mm.
best and good luck, Klaus
Hi Klausser, i will be aabout 150 meter in frtont the crow, thats is the reason to use the sigma maybe @300 to get a photo like this http://gigapan.com/galleries/6967/gigapans/75452
Thanks Klausesser
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bungolio wrote:
thats is the reason to use the sigma maybe @300 to get a photo like this
Good luck!
(i forgot the GigaPan doesn´t provide a speed-mode)
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2013-02-01 18:10:39)
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Im done the Gigapixel, here´s the ink http://gigapan.com/gigapans/122681 and the info is
GigaPan Stitch version 2.1.0160 (Macintosh)
Panorama size: 6349 megapixels (174144 x 36464 pixels)
Input images: 735 (49 columns by 15 rows)
Field of view: 117.8 degrees wide by 24.7 degrees high (top=12.8, bottom=-11.8)
Settings:
Vignette correction on: c1=-0.034 c2=-0.0167
All default settings
Original image properties:
Camera make: Canon
Camera model: Canon EOS REBEL T3i
Image size: 5184x3456 (17.9 megapixels)
Capture time: 2013-02-01 19:45:43 - 2013-02-01 20:39:39
Aperture: f/5.6
Exposure time: 0.00555556
ISO: 6400
Focal length (35mm equiv.): unknown
White balance: Automatic
Exposure mode: Manual
Horizontal overlap: 26.1 to 40.7 percent
Vertical overlap: 21.1 to 37.7 percent
Computer stats: 12288 MB RAM, 4 CPUs
Total time 1:34:35 (7.7 seconds per picture)
Alignment: 36:34, Projection: 16:13, Blending: 41:49
(Preview finished in 1:04:55)
Thanks for all your help
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