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Hello,
I used to use Gigapan in conjunction with Nikon D5100 camera and Samyang 8mm lens. Unfortunately, Gigapan turned out to be incompatible with the camera and the lens (I shoot indoors). The main problem was that I failed to set a perfect nodal point and could not get 100% sharp panos as output. The nodal point could only be set in such a position that parts of Gigapan were in the picture, which is unacceptable.
I am thinking of buying Panogear instead. I am determined to keep using the camera and the lens. Would I have the same problem (setting nodal point 100% perfect) in Panogear?
P.S. How useful is the touchpad? How does it affect the shooting speed?
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It is generally accepted that a robotic pano head offers no advantages, over a manual pano head, when using a fisheye lens unless you plan to shoot from a pole which makes the camera inaccessible.
Why do you feel you want a robotic pano head rather than manual pano head?
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skyvlasov wrote:
Hello,
I used to use Gigapan in conjunction with Nikon D5100 camera and Samyang 8mm lens. Unfortunately, Gigapan turned out to be incompatible with the camera and the lens (I shoot indoors). The main problem was that I failed to set a perfect nodal point and could not get 100% sharp panos as output. The nodal point could only be set in such a position that parts of Gigapan were in the picture, which is unacceptable.
I am thinking of buying Panogear instead. I am determined to keep using the camera and the lens. Would I have the same problem (setting nodal point 100% perfect) in Panogear?
P.S. How useful is the touchpad? How does it affect the shooting speed?
As Andrew stated already: the Merlin (Panogear) has a very big base due to it´s battery-holders. So using a fisheye-lens isn´t really wise on it. I also suggest to use a manual head instead IF you only use a fisheye.
For fisheyes on "robotic" heads you need one with a vertical axis very close to the rim of the base - this way the Nadir "hole" is very small because the camera´s/lense´s downlook-angle is very steep - look at the image:
the black plate in the center og the tripod is the Nadir-hole of my head.
These holes - aka "footprint" - easily can be retouched or merged with an extra Nadir image. But editing the very big black area which the Merlin produces using a fisheye is much more complicated - depending on the floor.
I used the Merlin in the beginning also with a fisheye - stopped doing so very soon.
best, Klaus
Nadir-hole of a 35mm lens on a Panoneed head (forget the camera-bag 
)
Last edited by klausesser (2013-01-18 11:40:08)
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i got it. so what exactly should i buy to be ok with nikon d5100 and samyang 8mm fish-eye? can you please list all the necessary equipment i should get to make my camera and lens compatible
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skyvlasov wrote:
i got it. so what exactly should i buy to be ok with nikon d5100 and samyang 8mm fish-eye? can you please list all the necessary equipment i should get to make my camera and lens compatible
Where are you located? It may influence our recommendations.
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Russia. Saint-Petersburg. What difference does it make??
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skyvlasov wrote:
i got it. so what exactly should i buy to be ok with nikon d5100 and samyang 8mm fish-eye? can you please list all the necessary equipment i should get to make my camera and lens compatible
I definitely suggest to buy a good manual head - NodalNinja, Manfrotto or so. They´re universal and provide all you need.
And they cost by far less than a robotic head - which start at around 2000.-€ up to around 5000/7000-€ + VAT.
Would be intersting to hear what the prices are in Russia!
best, Klaus
Last edited by klausesser (2013-01-18 16:08:18)
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skyvlasov wrote:
Russia. Saint-Petersburg. What difference does it make??
Some brands of pano head are more readily available in some locations than others.
.................
I would suggest you look at the Nodal Ninja 4 series pano head, with an RD-series rotator, if you only plan to use it with the Samyang fisheye; you might consider one of the QR (Quick Release) optional accessories, and the nadir adapter too.
Or, take a look at the new Nodal Ninja RS-1-NOR if you like the idea of a lens ring style pano head.
If you may also wish to use a lens with an equiv. focal length of more than 100mm then you'd need to consider a different model such as the Nodal Ninja M1-series.
Then you'll need a good tripod I would suggest a Manfrotto with the optional levelling centre column.
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I got Nodal Ninja 4 R-D16 
thanks for your advice
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btw will i be fine with spherical panoramas with Nodal Ninja 4 R-D16??
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skyvlasov wrote:
btw will i be fine with spherical panoramas with Nodal Ninja 4 R-D16??
Great set, love the RD-16. Good gear to do about any panorama with.
I would suggest you have a look at the NN Nadir adapter also.
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