I would be grateful id someone could give me some advice please. I am making gigapanos. No problem if everything is at infinity and the camera is set to manual focus.
However what happens when there is some object, perhaps a person, in the foreground which I need to be in focus.
I have the camera set at autofocus and it does just that. The vast majority of the pano is in focus and at infinity. However there are pictures with the foreground object in focus and with the background of those pictures out of focus. There are then also pictures of the object out of focus with the background in focus.
How can I bring all of this together so that the foreground object is in focus as well as the rest of the pano.
I am sure there is a way. I have searched the forum but not found a method.
I am using the new Lumix LZ200. It is a bridge camera with a 600mm zoom.
I only found a Panasonic DMC Lumix FZ200:
seonsor 6.17 x 4.55mm you told us you used focal of 120mm tech spec. tell us the Lumix does have an maximum aperture f2.8
if you've an android mobile or tablet, than search the android market about free app "Photo Tools" (I used it for the calulations in this post); "DOF Calc" or "DOF-Calculator"
so you first have to decide where to set the focus of you cam while shooting your pano. (all and everything please set to manual: WB, ISO, f-stop, aperture, shutterspeed what else...) lets say you focus on an object in 100m distance. than your cam also set objects nearer and farer from this 100m line in focus (depending on used focal, sensor size and aperture and ficus distance): DOC calculator for 120mm with your sensor and lets say f.8:
than everything between 80.61m and 131.68m will be in focus and more or less sharp. and the hyperfocal Distance is for these values 415.2m so everythin behind this line is sharp (independant of the point you did choose to focus on). so there is a gap: before 80m will be unsharp and between 131 and 415m... to change this you can change aperture to f 16:
than if you remain at 100m setting your focus: all is sharp between 67.52m to 192.72 m and hyperfocal is at 207.6m... so more or less between 67m and infinity all is sharp...
search for DOF (Depth of Field), Hyperfocal Distance Calculator many descriptions, calculators, apps etc. on the net....
Hi, However what happens when there is some object, perhaps a person, in the foreground which I need to be in focus.
Georg mentioned the hyperfocal-distance already. If this doen´t help i suggest focus-stacking.
You need to shoot the pano at least twice : first focused to the far-point and the second time focused to the near-point. Then stitch and render both of them and put them into a focus-stacker like HeliconFocus, Zerene-Stacker or FocusMagic for example.
Important is: both focals shouldn´t be too much apart from each other.
Another way can (!) be to focus on the foreground-object when the camera sees it and focus back when the camera sees only the background. Of course the difference shouldn´t be too big - small aperture and using the DOF carefully helps a lot. If the background around the object isn´t pin-sharp a viewer usually will not realize that because he concentrates on the object.
Last edited by klausesser (2013-01-20 21:34:56)
If you want something you´ve never had, then you´ve got to do something you´ve never done.
for bigger panos with objects in line of sight to evaluate the distance for calculation... ... I finally obtained conviction that following golf range finder could be a valuable gadget too in combination of creating panos: Gold Rangefinder GX-3i: http://golf.leupold.com/products/gx-3i-golf-rangefinder (up to 411m distance objects)